My 1992 C1500 truck with a 305 has 150,000 on it. It uses about a qt. every 2 weeks. Should I still be running what the cap says? (5/30) Or should I use soemthing thicker? I heard that thicker oil actually harder on an engine. At a quart every 2 weeks, I consider that "self changing". I have not pulled the drain plug in 2 years, just changed the filter every 4 to 5000 miles. Am I wrong on that as well? Truck runs like a horse.
Thicker oil in older engine??
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I would try a 10W40 and see if the consumption is reduced. If yes, then stick with it. Otherwise, a good bulk 10W30 would be fine and just try your best to keep it topped up.
Change the filter regularly, and also keep in mind that if the thicker oil does reduce consumption, then you will have to start pulling the drain plug again!
Change the filter regularly, and also keep in mind that if the thicker oil does reduce consumption, then you will have to start pulling the drain plug again!
Depends on where your at I think, if your in alaska I'd say no, but your in texas so I dont see how it can hurt since you dont has very many sub-zero days there. I'd try a higher mileage oil because they say it has a better burn-off protection for higher milage cars and its maybe 2 bucks more for a 5 quirt jug.
I would pull the plug every once in the while to change the oil, because you still has stuff in the pan that most likly is collecting around the oil pump pick up. That filter doesnt get everything.
I would pull the plug every once in the while to change the oil, because you still has stuff in the pan that most likly is collecting around the oil pump pick up. That filter doesnt get everything.
What oil are you using now? I know you're going to get all sorts of responses from BOTH sides in this thread.....but I'm on the side of the fence that would go by what the oil filler cap OR the owner's manual states....
If the manual states 5-30 or 10-30 - go with that. BUT, perhaps try switching it up to a High Mileage oil or synthetic...to see if the high mileage can "seal" up anything that would be causing the leak.
BTW, good point at changing the oil filter
heard of toooo many horror stories of oil leakage, and they just keep topping off, without changing the filter....hehe.
Do you know where the leak is at? Or is it simply burning the oil? There may be an oil aditive down the oil aisle that may be able to stop the oil consumption
Obviously, mechanical work would be the best fix, but I understand times are tough, and mechanics cost time and money...but anything to buy you some more time, etc.
If the manual states 5-30 or 10-30 - go with that. BUT, perhaps try switching it up to a High Mileage oil or synthetic...to see if the high mileage can "seal" up anything that would be causing the leak.
BTW, good point at changing the oil filter
Do you know where the leak is at? Or is it simply burning the oil? There may be an oil aditive down the oil aisle that may be able to stop the oil consumption
Obviously, mechanical work would be the best fix, but I understand times are tough, and mechanics cost time and money...but anything to buy you some more time, etc.
I had a burner years ago, spec'd for 5w30 and switched to 10w40 and it cut the consumption noticeably. It's worth a shot
Any one of 10w30, 10w40, 15w40 , whatever you can find the cheapest... perhaps try a high mileage oil like MaxLife, may reduce some of the consumption too.
Drain it for sure, you may even benefit from a piston soak.
What's it look like through the fill hole?
Any one of 10w30, 10w40, 15w40 , whatever you can find the cheapest... perhaps try a high mileage oil like MaxLife, may reduce some of the consumption too.
Drain it for sure, you may even benefit from a piston soak.
What's it look like through the fill hole?
I am assuming it isn't leaking. How many miles do you rack up in two weeks? 10w-40 might help.
I don't normally approve of additives, but yours might be a perfect candidate for RESTORE. I would try RESTORE, plus a cheap HM 10-30.
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
I don't normally approve of additives, but yours might be a perfect candidate for RESTORE. I would try RESTORE, plus a cheap HM 10-30.
+1
I don't normally approve of additives, but yours might be a perfect candidate for RESTORE. I would try RESTORE, plus a cheap HM 10-30.
+1
I had really good results with the 10w40 HM Super Tech for slowing an oil leak and it is cheaper than most.
I would try some 10w40HM maybe even 15w40 if you live in a warmer part of Texas, give it a little time to work, then maybe The additive route it is a viable option but a last resort. Mechanical work is needed most likely with consumption to that degree.
I agree; on chevy the #4 and #6 cylinders some oil gets past the valve seals...since oil pools in that area (usually gives a puff of smoke on startup)...check your plugs to get an idea if oil is being burnt...valve seals on these engines can be changed without removing the heads...but not the guides..i would recommend the move to a higher viscosity oil based on operating temp range..and type of service it is used for..
Originally Posted By: 5sfe91
I am assuming it isn't leaking. How many miles do you rack up in two weeks? 10w-40 might help.
This is an important question requiring an answer.
How many miles do you do to warrant 1 quart in 2 weeks ?
I am assuming it isn't leaking. How many miles do you rack up in two weeks? 10w-40 might help.
This is an important question requiring an answer.
How many miles do you do to warrant 1 quart in 2 weeks ?
I'd have a look at the valve seals, it might help in reducing the oil use in that old Chevy. It might not cure the problem, but there is a very good chance of improving it. As already mentioned the heads don't have to be removed. I've replaced stem seals on a few Chevy engines and it helped.
I agree the oil is self changing. At some point you should pull the pan and clean it. Try Walmart Supertech High Mileage oil because name brands are too high. Replace the pcv and hoses.
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
I don't normally approve of additives, but yours might be a perfect candidate for RESTORE. I would try RESTORE, plus a cheap HM 10-30.
I have my reservations about the RESTORE. Used it in my buddy Ed's(RIP), 97 DODGE RAM 3500 5.9L V-8 gasser and we beleive that the Restore contributed to the death of the Cat.Conv'tr. But too, it's hard to really say as this RAM was using as much oil as lifeson2112's C1500 305. This RAM always used some oil and it was SG/SH/SL to start with. Only got worst with time and by '04 the CAT was toast. Could never see smoke out the tail pipe and the drips from leaking were few, never enough drips to be concerned...Not a qt/2 weeks!
Could have been all of the ZDDP in the previous oils that caused the Cat to fail but it was coincidental that when we use the RESTORE, the CAT failed in a few months and did nothing for the burning/blowby. Never any smoke apon startup so we never suspected valve seals.
Does anyone know if RESTORE is Cat Safe?
Ed passed at age 64 in '05 and is missed dearly!
I don't normally approve of additives, but yours might be a perfect candidate for RESTORE. I would try RESTORE, plus a cheap HM 10-30.
I have my reservations about the RESTORE. Used it in my buddy Ed's(RIP), 97 DODGE RAM 3500 5.9L V-8 gasser and we beleive that the Restore contributed to the death of the Cat.Conv'tr. But too, it's hard to really say as this RAM was using as much oil as lifeson2112's C1500 305. This RAM always used some oil and it was SG/SH/SL to start with. Only got worst with time and by '04 the CAT was toast. Could never see smoke out the tail pipe and the drips from leaking were few, never enough drips to be concerned...Not a qt/2 weeks!
Could have been all of the ZDDP in the previous oils that caused the Cat to fail but it was coincidental that when we use the RESTORE, the CAT failed in a few months and did nothing for the burning/blowby. Never any smoke apon startup so we never suspected valve seals.
Does anyone know if RESTORE is Cat Safe?
Ed passed at age 64 in '05 and is missed dearly!
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Restore is probably not all that good for a cat, but when an engine is burning that much oil, the cat probably doesn't have long to live anyway. It's kind of a last ditch effort to buy the engine a bit more time.
Few months or so ago I ran into a fella that was buying a bunch of STP oil treatment for his oil burning pickup. He figured he would use a thick heavy grade oil minus a couple quarts and use the STP in place of it as a start - wow
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