The Mola-Brew is IN

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The last run I did in my Wife's car (02 Ford Taurus with 3.0 Vulcan) was a franken-mix of leftover stuff and 1 pint of Marvel Mystery Oil. I used a mix using the rest of the MMO and random 10w30 oil to top off over the course of the OCI.
It made it 4,800 miles and through a really cold winter (For Texas), before I realized that it was getting warmer out and I wanted to go ahead and change the oil out while it was cool outside and not 100+ degrees (not fun under a hot car and on top of hot concerete).
BTW, I had a SuperTech filter on there that I had to repeatedly tighten because it had a very slow leak around the gasket. I think I will spend the extra dollar and twenty cents and buy Motorcraft filters now.

Being that my stash is upwards of 40 quarts right now, much of it synthetic, and she drives more than I do I decided to fill it with Synthetic for the first time.
Typically I leave the Synth for the Xterra (small sump) and F-150 (1 year drains), but I actually get tired of putting the Taurus up on ramps because 5000 miles comes fast.

So in went the Quaker State 10w30 Torque power with 1 bottle of Schaeffers #132 Moly EP Oil Treatment and 5oz of LC20.
I plan on letting it be in there for 10,000 miles (LC20 says so
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) and then sending some out for a UOA. A Motorcraft FL-400s went on also.

The Schaeffers #132 is very thick. It has a blue tint to it and reminds me of STP oil treatment, but I know it is made by a reputable company. The LC20 is VERY THIN, I think it will thin out the #132 some. I am really interested in how this brew holds up over the summer and into the fall. 10,000 miles shouldn't take too long to rack up.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Doesn't that Shaefer's Moly treatment have very little moly?


Yes very little moly. I think the name was more for marketing.
 
I'll be interested to see the UOA.

BTW, is the 02' Taurus filter a pain like the one on my brother's 00'? I don't get it, same as my sister's 98', except the 00' is hard to get at due to many things in the way. The 98' is cake.

I'm doing a couple of short OCI/MMO runs on his car. After that, synthetic so it doesn't have to be changed as often.
 
The 02 has the filter out in front of the engine. It is a front wheel drive so technically it hangs off the side of the engine toward the front bumper at a slight downward angle.

The only issues I have is that it sits just under an exhaust manifold that burns you if you brush it, and on top of the starter that gets covered with hot oil, and next to that exhaust manifold as it bends. You spill oil out of the filter as you take it off it will either go on the starter or the exhaust.
But you can get to it and have room for a tool to remove it if it is stubborn. That is a big plus in my book.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Doesn't that Shaefer's Moly treatment have very little moly?


The main additive is Boron based.

There is a VOA of it floating around somewhere. It uses some of the chemistry used in their line of oils.
 
From my understanding 132 has ~ 65 ppm of antimony which is what is supposed to make it a useful product. We mixed it with MMO for use in my brothers boat and were very happy with the results. The engine is old and tired, still runs well. My brother claims it quieted things down a bit and just about eliminated the slight oil consumption it had.
 
I still run the brew in a couple of cars. When I was doing UOA the brew appeared to give slightly better wear numbers but hard to prove. I still use it though
 
I don't hink it's Boron-based or has Boron additives in it uless they recently changed the formula.

In addition to moly, Sb, calcium and ZDDP, the base oil contains VII and another FM which is believed to be an ester.
 
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