synthetic vs. conventional oil

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Synthetic oils do NOT provide better film strength.
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From a Machinery Lubrication Article. I'm sure the chart above will vary with the actual type of oil used within the group, but this at least shows a base line. This is also for oil in good shape.

Syn oils are better for more extreme cases because they are more stable. Lesser oils will oxidize/degrade after which the film strength will lessen (as in an extended drain).

As far as start up protection...esters or ZDDP.
 
Given your scenario of climate and usage, the effect of short trips on the oil seems the driver.

I would run Dino with LC20. The latter should add some benefit in rust control (it makes a lovely rust inhibiting penetrating oil) and just running Dino allows frequent low cost changes to get rid of water and nasties.
 
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Americans in general, are easily marketed up market because they have been conditioned to believe that if they spend more $$ they are getting a better product. I do not believe that #@$%!, I believe the hard data and the many high mileage vehicles that have made it there using conventional oils.




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Agree 1000%!

Bill
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There is no doubt that a SAE 30 paraffin wax based oil could have double the film strength of a 10w30 synthetic oil but the problem with using a SAE 30 wax base oil is that it has poor cold weather startup protection.

When I said that a 10w30 synthetic oil has the same film strength as a straight SAE30 petroleum oil I am reffering to the non paraffin based petroleum oils which are more commonly used.
 
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There is no doubt that a SAE 30 paraffin wax based oil could have double the film strength of a 10w30 synthetic oil



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When I said that a 10w30 synthetic oil has the same film strength as a straight SAE30 petroleum oil I am reffering to the non paraffin based petroleum oils which are more commonly used.



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I have Chevron Supreme and Pennzoil Platinum sitting in my garage. Which one should I go with?




Both excellent oils. I bought 12 quarts of Pennzoil Platium(can not beat ANY oil for 99 cents a quart.. I'd buy Conventional Pennzoil today for 99 cents a quart
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) )today to make my own blend with Pennzoil Conventional and will run it out to 8k after doing my 2nd 5k GTX run for Patman.

Either will do your engine fine.
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Take care, Bill
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There is no doubt that a SAE 30 paraffin wax based oil could have double the film strength of a 10w30 synthetic oil but the problem with using a SAE 30 wax base oil is that it has poor cold weather startup protection.





Do a search here and read up on parrafin based crude.

Then, you may want to delete your post so..................well, come to think of it, the damage is done based on some of your other posts!
 
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A good testimonial to the superior film strength of a synthetic oil is the fact that most truckers when using a petroleum oil must use 15w40 oil. If a synthetic oil is used OEM's allow the use of a thinner 5w40 oil.




Last time I looked at explanations, an xW-40 was an xW-40 at operating temperatures. The 5W- is less viscous than a 15W- at startup, but in the same range within a short time.
Now, there are quite a number of truckers running xW-30 synthetics with great success and performance.
 
Run either. I have Mobil 1 0w30, Havoline 5w30, Valvo maxlife synthetic 5w30, Tropartic5w30 and Exxon Superflo 5w30 in my garage right now. All my vehicles are currently running Tropartic. The Havoline is next on my list if I don't wanna run the tropartic.

I too use LC20 in my conventional oil and primarily I use it for the extra corrosion prevention it provides while the vehicle is inactive.
 
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A good testimonial to the superior film strength of a synthetic oil is the fact that most truckers when using a petroleum oil must use 15w40 oil. If a synthetic oil is used OEM's allow the use of a thinner 5w40 oil. In automotive use the better film strength of a synthetic oil means a 0w30 synthetic oil can be used in place of a 5w30 mineral oil.




Say what? All the popular 40 weight HDEO's are 14.0-15.0 cSt @ 100*C. 5W-40 is not "thinner" than 15w40.

15W-40 is the standard for conventional base because HDEO needs good shear performance. 5W-40 Synthetic has the same or less VII than 15w40 conventional and gives superior cold start performance.

A better example to try and make your point (although I dont agree) would have been Amsoil HDD 5w30. The main reason you can use 1 lower grade of synthetic is superior shear resistance.
 
Yeah,
Superior viscosity index of base oils is always a good indicator. GC 0w30 being an example of an oil with superior extreme cold properies and A3 HTHS. Otherwise I don't think that Andro has a good grasp on the basic concepts. I would be happy to guide him in discovery of theses basics if he asks.
 
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It really is a myth that motorists who practice extended drain intervals are going against OEM recommendations because these same OEM's when they do business in Europe actually approve of extended drain intervals for the exact same cars that they sell in America. An OEM's recommendation for a particular drain interval will have more to do with the quality of readily available oils in a particular region.

If an OEM does business in a country where the popular lubricants are of even poorer quality than the lubricants available in America it would not suprise me if that OEM would recommend an even shorter 2000 mile drain interval. But this of course does not mean that the 2000 mile drain interval should be adopted as a worldwide standard and neither should a 3000 mile OEM recommended oil change interval for America be adopted as a world wide standard.




If you walked into a dealer with a warranty claim for an engine problem, where they wanted to see receipts for oil changes, and you gave that little spiel, the service manager would probably crack his skull open from falling on the cement floor in laughter. (he'd then likely sue you and win).

What an OEM does in Europe is of no concern to the legalities of warranties here in the States and recommended maintenance.
 
Anyone else want to take a shot at which oil I should use between Chevron or PP or maybe suggest a different engine oil?
 
OK. A thick 30 wt because heavy oil protects unplated bare metal longer than light oil. Syn isn't necessary.

Which one of the 2 you have is thicker? Use that one and add 1 bottle of 20w-50 in your OC.
 
I'd use a low viscosity (5w30/10w-30), API/CJ-4 rated diesel oil, either petroleum based or synthetic based. I believe the latest CJ-4 additive chemistry will do the best job of controlling this type of wear.

These CJ-4 oils will also be excellent candidates for Marine applications for the same reason....
 
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