I have a new Nissan Titan truck. I only drive it a couple of days a week and for very short trips. My question is which oil synthetic or conventional will offer better protection for the engine while the car is parked in the garage. Which oil protects better against rust?
synthetic vs. conventional oil
- Thread starter leualex
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i have to say that these below zero temps here in colorado redline/motul synthetic oil and motorcraft fl820s filter makes starting the cars so easy!!!..
Since it never gets below freezing in Vancouver, Wa I doubt that will help him.
(I've never had a problem starting in below zero temps, last week it was zero and Castrol 5w30 GTX was fine. Started just like it was 50 degrees...
Since the posted asked for his short trips, I'd say changing his oil is most important to get the water and such out, So using Conventional oil and change the filter EVERY time per the recommended OCI for shrt trips would be the smart thing.
As far as rust. Never had an issue with engines that were driven little here. I had a 67 CJ5 V6 jeep that sat more than was driven (sold it last year with 43k orginal miles on it. Bought it in 1973 with 27k) and I took both valve covers off it and it was spotless. Only saw Valvoline or Halvoline conventional for most of its life once a year.
If you have any problems with the engine, trust me, having a log of oil changes per the manual WILL make warrenty work easier.
Take care and
Bill
What the heck?
I meant below zero.
Quote:
I meant below zero.
Coldest month is Jan. Average low temp is 34 degrees. Record low temp is 3 below in 1950.
Looking at the records for lows for the month of january all the records were set in the 40s,50s and the latest was 1979. Most of the low records in the teens. A few in the 50s were single digits.
The weather around there is alot nicer and warmer than any place going east. (Current temp where the orginal post is 47 degrees with a low of 36. Here it is 26 with a low in the teens today. Littleton is 38 with a low of 26)
It's going to be below zero here and single digits in Littleton. 17 degrees for Vancouver, WA for 2 days and then right around freezing.
When a mechanic attempts to refute a synthetic oils extended drain potential he will usually tell the motorist to refer to his owners manual for guidance on proper oil change intervals which will usually mean a 3,000 to 7500 mile oil change interval depending on the driving conditions. What the mechanic won't tell the motorist is that in Europe where synthetic oils are more popular the European version of the owners manual will recommend a much longer drain interval of between 9,000 to 18,000 miles depending on the driving conditions which the recommendation is based on the use of higher quality synthetic oils.
A conventional oil will do the job just fine. Synthetic will not provide additional protection for infrequently used vehicles.
In infrequently used vehicles an extended drain synthetic oil will allow oil change intervals of one year provided the milege limitations are not exceeded.
You can do a one year OCI just as well with a conventional, once out of warranty if abiding by the manufacturers is important to the ownere. Once out of warranty just like Bill said, one year OCI's with conventional is fine.
Believe it or not synthetic oil does not have superior performance in every aspect.
Believe it or not synthetic oil does not have superior performance in every aspect.
So, I take it that synthetic oils provide a better film on the engine parts than mineral oil. And if so which ones are better (group III or IV) for my application?
In a daily driver the additive package might be more important than the base oil, considering that you use the right viscosity and change it now and then.
Is your truck one that had a rear-end problem? If so you might want a synthetic gear lube. It makes sense because you only change it onece in a while and it does not take much to fill it.
Is your truck one that had a rear-end problem? If so you might want a synthetic gear lube. It makes sense because you only change it onece in a while and it does not take much to fill it.
It really is a myth that motorists who practice extended drain intervals are going against OEM recommendations because these same OEM's when they do business in Europe actually approve of extended drain intervals for the exact same cars that they sell in America. An OEM's recommendation for a particular drain interval will have more to do with the quality of readily available oils in a particular region.
If an OEM does business in a country where the popular lubricants are of even poorer quality than the lubricants available in America it would not suprise me if that OEM would recommend an even shorter 2000 mile drain interval. But this of course does not mean that the 2000 mile drain interval should be adopted as a worldwide standard and neither should a 3000 mile OEM recommended oil change interval for America be adopted as a world wide standard.
If an OEM does business in a country where the popular lubricants are of even poorer quality than the lubricants available in America it would not suprise me if that OEM would recommend an even shorter 2000 mile drain interval. But this of course does not mean that the 2000 mile drain interval should be adopted as a worldwide standard and neither should a 3000 mile OEM recommended oil change interval for America be adopted as a world wide standard.
Who said that synthetic provides a better film after a long shutdown? If you are concerned about a film then seek out oils with greater polarity. Perhaps castrol start up. or if you want a highly polar synthetic try Redline. But To be honest I see no benefit in seeking out a special oil for your easy use. I leave my Truck parkede for 2-3 weeks at a time and I choose conventional (tropartic or havoline) to occupy my crankcase with my 5k mile OCI's no matter how long it takes to get 5k miles, Usually 6-8 months. Fires right up after a few weeks with no apparent differnce than an overnight sit.
It is true that synthetic oils have higher film strengths. For example a 5w30 synthetic oil will have the same film strength as a straight SAE 30 motor oil. The superior film strenth of a synthetic oil means that a lower viscosity synthetic oil can safely be used in place of a higher viscosity petroleum oil.
A good testimonial to the superior film strength of a synthetic oil is the fact that most truckers when using a petroleum oil must use 15w40 oil. If a synthetic oil is used OEM's allow the use of a thinner 5w40 oil. In automotive use the better film strength of a synthetic oil means a 0w30 synthetic oil can be used in place of a 5w30 mineral oil.
Patman
Staff member
People that only drive about 5k a year or less really don't have much to worry about at all, because even with the bare minimum of oil changes it should still make it to 100k easily (probably more) And so that means they'd get 20 years of service out of that engine, at the very least.
Androbot,
You are sounding like a broken Amsoil add (no offense Pablo). I know you are enthused about synthetic oils from your postings, that's fine. Just don't assume that they are the better choice for most applications..
No one BUT YOU mentioned 2-3k mile OCI's which are not even recomended by any OEM other than a few that lag behind.
It is not a myth that vehicle manufacturs and dealers will scrutinize your maintenance records should you ever (albiet rarely ) have a failure. Neither do I argue that using synthetic oil in a new vehicle for longe OCI's is a bad Idea , indeed it is a good idea if the owner is driving 15k or more a year where long OCI's can be a time and resource saver for a person with a busy lifestyle.
However, for a person with a short mileage regimen in a non-high performance application or not living in a subzero temperature environment there is no convinceing reason to go with a synthetic engine oil other than owner placebo effect.
Americans in general, are easily marketed up market because they have been conditioned to believe that if they spend more $$ they are getting a better product. I do not believe that #@$%!, I believe the hard data and the many high mileage vehicles that have made it there using conventional oils.
You are sounding like a broken Amsoil add (no offense Pablo). I know you are enthused about synthetic oils from your postings, that's fine. Just don't assume that they are the better choice for most applications..
No one BUT YOU mentioned 2-3k mile OCI's which are not even recomended by any OEM other than a few that lag behind.
It is not a myth that vehicle manufacturs and dealers will scrutinize your maintenance records should you ever (albiet rarely ) have a failure. Neither do I argue that using synthetic oil in a new vehicle for longe OCI's is a bad Idea , indeed it is a good idea if the owner is driving 15k or more a year where long OCI's can be a time and resource saver for a person with a busy lifestyle.
However, for a person with a short mileage regimen in a non-high performance application or not living in a subzero temperature environment there is no convinceing reason to go with a synthetic engine oil other than owner placebo effect.
Americans in general, are easily marketed up market because they have been conditioned to believe that if they spend more $$ they are getting a better product. I do not believe that #@$%!, I believe the hard data and the many high mileage vehicles that have made it there using conventional oils.
What is the measurement for film strength? Where are the numbers? Define film strength.
BTW he is concerned about residual oil on moving parts after extended shutdown.
Sorry but you just lost me..
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