Synthetic high mileage oils

[Falcon_LS]

In the past I had an oil burning issue with my Mitsu, which has the infamous 12-valve 3 litre V6, due to the valve guides and seals. I addressed the problem, and now I do not need to top up at all between oil changes. My OCIs are 15,000-20,000 kilometres (10,000-12,500 miles) with European full synthetics.

My current fill is Fuchs Titan SuperSyn LongLife 5w30, and I'm due for an oil change in approximately 6,000 kilometres (3,750 miles). That's just over 3 weeks away, but I have a habit of buying everything in advance.

I'm planning on switching to Liqui-Moly's Porsche-approved 0W-40 or 5W-40, but another product caught my attention. Their Super Leichtlauf 10W-40 is a Group III high mileage oil, which I can run for 15,000 kilometres/10,000 miles. Considering summer is just around the corner, I was giving it careful consideration.

I do not have any oil leaks, or oil burning issues, and my valve seals, crank and cam seals are all relatively new. I was thinking more about the rear main seal, etc. though. Would it be beneficial to run a high mileage synthetic for just one OCI (10,000 miles)?

Thanks!

 

[Johnny]

Give it a try, it sure can't hurt anything. Can you buy all the different products listed on that website in Kuwait?

 

[Falcon_LS]

Thanks, Johnny! I was really just worried it might cause a leak or something. Nothing ventured, nothing gained though.

The entire product range is available, which is excellent to say the least. I'm looking forward to trying out their synthetic ATF and gear lubes.

 

[Bluestream]

Most people hear will tell you its too thick and to "stick with the Mfgr Recomendation"

Oh, I see you're outside of North America; then it okay...

 

[Falcon_LS]

Mitsubishi actually recommends 15w40 in the Middle East.

 

[Bluestream]

Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
Mitsubishi actually recommends 15w40 in the Middle East.

There you go; you just answered your own question.

 

[mechtech2]

You are going well over 10,000 miles on an OCI and not using oil with that engine?
Why screw with success??

But anyway, a HM oil can prevent as well as fix seal leaks. It is doing exactly the same thing in either case.

 

[sicko]

What's the vehicle spec'ed for? I'm just curious why you want to move up to a 40wt

 

[Falcon_LS]

Originally Posted By: Bluestream
There you go; you just answered your own question.


The question isn't about viscosity, it's about whether or not a high mileage synthetic would be beneficial to the 11 year old factory seals that are still in service.

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
You are going well over 10,000 miles on an OCI and not using oil with that engine? Why screw with success??

But anyway, a HM oil can prevent as well as fix seal leaks. It is doing exactly the same thing in either case.


Thanks for the info! Ever since I sorted out my oil burning issue, the engine hasn't used any oil regardless of brand or viscosity actually. Then again, I'm only running European full synthetic, ACEA A3/B4 oils with an HTHS viscosity of over 3.5 cP. I've got 20% MMO in the current fill though, which watered down the 5w30 to a 5W-20 and no problems to date - touch wood.

Originally Posted By: sicko
What's the vehicle spec'ed for? I'm just curious why you want to move up to a 40wt


It's spec'd for 15w40, so I'm not moving up really. If anything, I've been running thinner oils in this engine than recommended.

 

[Rambaud]

Depends on what you call high mileage.

I use 0w30 in my 2000 Galant 2.4 GDI - and it has done over 150,000 miles.

I change the oil and filter every 3 months, as I am doing very short daily journeys (less than 5 miles).

 

[Falcon_LS]

Originally Posted By: Rambaud
Depends on what you call high mileage.

I use 0w30 in my 2000 Galant 2.4 GDI - and it has done over 150,000 miles.

I change the oil and filter every 3 months, as I am doing very short daily journeys (less than 5 miles).


Actually I just realised I forgot to mention mileage.

The engine's done 309,000 kilometres (193,125 miles). My family's the original owner, so I have its full service history.

 

[Bluestream]

Why are you running 20% MMO in curent fill? Is there a sludge problem with the motor?

 

[Falcon_LS]

No sludge issues. MMO keeps the engine internals clean, and I find the engine has more 'punch', so to speak, which a thinner oil just does not provide. Fuel economy also goes up slightly, and the engine runs quieter.

 

[Rambaud]

If you have been using a 5w30 without any problems, a change to a 10W-40 would not be my choice as it too thick at start-up. But your local driving conditions may call for different solutions compared to the UK.

 

[Falcon_LS]

Originally Posted By: Rambaud
If you have been using a 5w30 without any problems, a change to a 10W-40 would not be my choice as it too thick at start-up. But your local driving conditions may call for different solutions compared to the UK.


I used to run 10W-40 most of the time back in the UK (T-Reg Nissan QX V6) actually, until I switched to Castrol Edge 0w30 to extend my drain intervals. As far as cold viscosity goes, the thickest I go for is a 10W, which tends to be alright here where ambient temperatures now average 77 F.

But considering I will running this oil for round about 3 months at most, which is the entire summer season, I reckon a 10W should do alright. During summer, the coolest it gets here is 83 F, and that's in the evening! During the day, temperatures of 140 F are not uncommon.

 

[Bluestream]

For the better part of 30 years, I have used a 10w30 in temps as low as -40 without problems. I think it can handle the 77F you will be facing