Switching to syn. at 272816 miles.

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jayg

jayg

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After 30 years of dino only in the Land Cruiser, I'm doing the Pennzoil insiders deal and put in 8.3 qts of Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage 5w30 yesterday. I just drained conventional Pennzoil High Mileage 10w40 with just a little under 5k miles but running it for 2 years through AK winters and sending it off for a UOA.

I am not worried about consumption or leaks on it as its not driven tremendous distances much anymore and any leaks will get addressed quickly enough. I have put synthetic in other vehicles at high mileage but I think this is the highest. Hey, the oil was free and this time I'm going to be smart and run it until I can change it outside in the Summer next year 2018 around 7-8k miles. (My wrench and oil drain plug actually froze to the driveway during the change)

I'll report back if consumption goes up or leaks happen but this isn't a thread for folks to tell me to dump it and run conventional or the sky will fall.

Question: I have a few quarts left of PPHM for top ups but I want to keep it all consistent for UOA testing but where is the best place to buy it in stores though? It feels like I never see it in when I'm shopping.
 
Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
I personally would not take the risk of trying out a synthetic at such high miles, but please report back to tell us if you have any leaks, higher oil consumption etc.



Like I said in my OP, I have a feeling this thread is going to be a lot of people echoing that sentiment and that's not a surprise.

I'm not worried about it. Even worst case I have to add a quart every 4 months over a year and half is that REALLY that big of a deal? Lots of people tell me to put modern oil instead of shear prone 44 year old Quaker State in my Datsun yet it doesn't care either.

Let's see what happens and do experiments every once in a while.
 
Originally Posted By: jayg
After 30 years of dino only in the Land Cruiser, I'm doing the Pennzoil insiders deal and put in 8.3 qts of Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage 5w30 yesterday. I just drained conventional Pennzoil High Mileage 10w40 with just a little under 5k miles but running it for 2 years through AK winters and sending it off for a UOA.

I am not worried about consumption or leaks on it as its not driven tremendous distances much anymore and any leaks will get addressed quickly enough. I have put synthetic in other vehicles at high mileage but I think this is the highest. Hey, the oil was free and this time I'm going to be smart and run it until I can change it outside in the Summer next year 2018 around 7-8k miles. (My wrench and oil drain plug actually froze to the driveway during the change)

I'll report back if consumption goes up or leaks happen but this isn't a thread for folks to tell me to dump it and run conventional or the sky will fall.

Question: I have a few quarts left of PPHM for top ups but I want to keep it all consistent for UOA testing but where is the best place to buy it in stores though? It feels like I never see it in when I'm shopping.


Why were you using 10W-40 in Alaska?
 
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Yeah, I wanna see how this goes... Will be watching
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
I personally would not take the risk of trying out a synthetic at such high miles, but please report back to tell us if you have any leaks, higher oil consumption etc.
"Risk" ?
 
Keep an eye on the filter. I clogged mine doing the same with less miles on the clock.
 
I've dabbled with Synthetics in my 4Runner 22RE at greater mileage (currently has 324,250 on the clock on it's second batch of home brew blend synthetic in the sump) than your TLC with presumably the 2F. I've run M1 and Napa Syn with no ill effects, no increase in consumption, no junk in the oil filter, no leaks. I don't think you'll have any issues.
 
Originally Posted By: Triple_Se7en


Why were you using 10W-40 in Alaska?


Because I can? I plug in when it's extreme cold out (so I could run whatever oil I want) and the engine tended to like the 40wt for mild consumption. With a high mileage formulation 30wt, it's not that drastic of a drop and I'm not worried about it.

It made it thirty years with subzero temps without a 0W and didn't fall apart. I attribute that to a strong oil pump, starter, battery and a fantastic ancient inline 6 that doesn't care what oil it has truthfully. On paper at least, this will be the "best" cold weather oil it's ever had though I suspect it won't matter one bit in terms on longevity. I still have fantastic compression, great cam wear, plenty of power....What's the problem?
 
Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3
I've dabbled with Synthetics in my 4Runner 22RE at greater mileage (currently has 324,250 on the clock on it's second batch of home brew blend synthetic in the sump) than your TLC with presumably the 2F. I've run M1 and Napa Syn with no ill effects, no increase in consumption, no junk in the oil filter, no leaks. I don't think you'll have any issues.


That's pretty impressive. For home brew blend, do you usually blend synthetics or conventional with synthetic?
 
Originally Posted By: tig1
Certainly make extreme cold starts much easier.


Started the same this morning at -11F as it ever did on 10w40 dino.
 
Originally Posted By: maverickfhs
Originally Posted By: FlyNavyP3
I've dabbled with Synthetics in my 4Runner 22RE at greater mileage (currently has 324,250 on the clock on it's second batch of home brew blend synthetic in the sump) than your TLC with presumably the 2F. I've run M1 and Napa Syn with no ill effects, no increase in consumption, no junk in the oil filter, no leaks. I don't think you'll have any issues.


That's pretty impressive. For home brew blend, do you usually blend synthetics or conventional with synthetic?


I've done both, currently in the sump is 3 quarts Napa Synthetic 0w20 and 2 quarts Valvoline Conventional 10w40 Motorcycle. Previous run was 2 quarts 0w20 Napa Synthetic 2 Quarts VML 10w40 and 1 quart Valvoline DuraBlend 10w40 that I ran out to 5k. Mobil 1 5w30 was run all by itself out to 5k. First 255,000 ish of the engines life was all on bulk dino oil prior to my ownership, I continued with dino oil with the exception of the last 2 OCI and one random M1 try at about 300k.
 
That is an old school Toyota engine which is known to be very resilient.

The engine will be glad with any oil in them.
I don't think it cares that much on the type of oil.
 
Synthetic what? Do you know what the Pearl GTL finshed base is? It's not di-ester and its not PAO so how can you apply old tales to new tech?

Plus most ALL pcmo are majority "synthetic" if you use the oil industry advertising terminology of hydrocracked + hydroisomerized.
 
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