Switching From GC 0w30 to M1 0w40 - issues?

[Dallas_E500]

I've been using GC 0w30 on my Range Rover Sport(RRS) ever since the 1st OC after the OEM fill. GC has been holding up very well, and I'm up to 80k miles now. The UOA's have been good with very little wear. Extended the OC to 10k from 7.5K, with the UOA still showing that the oil was holding up well with lot of additives left The dilema now is that GC is no longer available. The RRS calls for 5w30.

Living in Dallas, the heat is up to 100+, but winters could get cold so considering M1 0w40. Will I have any issues running this oil and grade. I can't find a good long drain interval oil. I do a good bit of long drives, but at times quite a bit of short drives as well.

Not sure if the Castrol Edge 0w30 or 5w30 will hold up to GC. The Edge 0w30 meets the Euro car spec, but non of the Ford Specs. (BTW the RRS oil uses a old Ford Spec - WSS-M2C205-A). Edge 0w30 meets some of the other Ford specs but none of euro car specs.

So bottom line - looking for a good long drain oil. Leaning towards M1 0w40. Other choices were M1 5w30, Edge 5w30, Edge 0w30.

Thoughts, recommendations would be appreciated. Any issue from going to M1 0w40

 

[Trav]

If you ran GC with no issues then there will be none with Mobil 1 0w-40. Mobil 1 0W-40 is one of their best oils, i would have no reservation about running it in your conditions.

 

[67Customs]

Why not try Mobil 1 0W-30? It seems to give very good UOAs around here and should give you good use for your 7.5K OCIs.

 

[CATERHAM]

Actually M1 0W-40 due to it's much higher 185 VI is lighter than GC at start-up temp's as high as 25C. I for one prefer it to GC for that reason alone.

But if you want to stick with a HTHS 3.5cP 30wt you could consider Lucas 0W-30 which has the same VI as M1 0W-40 and exceeds BMW LL-1 requirements apparently.

 

[Dallas_E500]

Originally Posted By: Trav
If you ran GC with no issues then there will be none with Mobil 1 0w-40. Mobil 1 0W-40 is one of their best oils, i would have no reservation about running it in your conditions.

Thanks Trav – that’s what I’m leaning towards based on discussions with some other folks who have been helping me
Originally Posted By: 67Customs
Why not try Mobil 1 0W-30? It seems to give very good UOAs around here and should give you good use for your 7.5K OCIs.

Being that’s this is a V8, and approx. 6000lbs beast running in hot weather for few more months, thought I may get more protection with a 40 grade – not sure if what I’m saying makes sense. 0w30 was a consideration, just not sure if its suitable for this application in this weather.

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Actually M1 0W-40 due to it's much higher 185 VI is lighter than GC at start-up temp's as high as 25C. I for one prefer it to GC for that reason alone.
But if you want to stick with a HTHS 3.5cP 30wt you could consider Lucas 0W-30 which has the same VI as M1 0W-40 and exceeds BMW LL-1 requirements apparently.

Not sure if I can source Lucas 0w30 easily – may need to look around. Been pretty much focusing on the M1 and Castrol products

 

[67Customs]

Originally Posted By: Dallas_E500
Being that’s this is a V8, and approx. 6000lbs beast running in hot weather for few more months, thought I may get more protection with a 40 grade – not sure if what I’m saying makes sense. 0w30 was a consideration, just not sure if its suitable for this application in this weather.
I just figured that since you have ran a 0-30 since factory fill and you have ran it for 80K miles, why change? I'm not doubting that M1 0W-40 is a great oil. Just sayin', if 0W-30 has workd, why not keep it that way? Do a run of M1 0W-30 and do a UOA. Do a run of M1 0W-40 and do a UOA. Make your decision then.

Did you just move to Dallas or something? Maybe I missed that part in your OP.

 

[CATERHAM]

You can't judge an oil by it's SAE grade alone.
M1 AFE 0W-30 with it's HTHS vis of 3.0cP is a much lighter 30wt oil to GC (HTHS 3.5cP).
GC is closer to the 40wt end of the viscosity spectrum while M1 AFE 0W-30 is closer to the 20wt end of the spectrum.

 

[Dallas_E500]

Originally Posted By: 67Customs
I just figured that since you have ran a 0-30 since factory fill and you have ran it for 80K miles, why change? I'm not doubting that M1 0W-40 is a great oil. Just sayin', if 0W-30 has workd, why not keep it that way? Do a run of M1 0W-30 and do a UOA. Do a run of M1 0W-40 and do a UOA. Make your decision then.

Did you just move to Dallas or something? Maybe I missed that part in your OP.

Been in Dallas the whole time. I was not sure if M1 AFE 0w30 would meet a long drain interval. Based on the M1 site, it does not meet any of the Euro specs, reason for choosing 0w40 – does that make sense ?

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
You can't judge an oil by it's SAE grade alone.
M1 AFE 0W-30 with it's HTHS vis of 3.0cP is a much lighter 30wt oil to GC (HTHS 3.5cP).
GC is closer to the 40wt end of the viscosity spectrum while M1 AFE 0W-30 is closer to the 20wt end of the spectrum.

That’s what I heard too – I guess that’s how they get the AFE name. Any idea how the protection differs between M1’s 0w30 and 0w40.

 

[67Customs]

Originally Posted By: Dallas_E500
Been in Dallas the whole time. I was not sure if M1 AFE 0w30 would meet a long drain interval. Based on the M1 site, it does not meet any of the Euro specs, reason for choosing 0w40 – does that make sense?

That makes sense. I'm simply going on what I heave read on here and based on UOAs, but it seems that people are getting good results from M1 0W-30 while running it around 7.5 OCIs. The one thing I don't know is the climate they live in. If you would feel more comfortable with the 0W-40 based on the Euro specs, then go with it. I was just offering another option to look into.

 

[CATERHAM]

Dallas_E350 you asked "any idea how the protection differs between M1's 0W-30 and 0W-40"?

That's the classic oil viscosity question.
The answer is, you want the oil to be "as light as possible but just as thick as necessary".

Since all oil is too thick on start-up M1 0W-30 will provide superior lubrication to M1 0W-40 until the oil temperature get too hot and therefore the oil gets too thin allowing for possible metal to metal contact. At that point the advantage of the heavier 0W-40 comes into play since it can handle higher oil temp's without getting "too thin".

The only way to know for sure if your oil is getting too hot and therefore too thin is with an oil pressure gauge.
But since you don't likely have an OP gauge installed you'll have to make some assumptions. If you drive sedately and rarely use WOT especially when the engine is hot then in all likelyhood the lighter M1 0W-30 will still provide sufficient high temp' viscosity.

Having said that, there are some BITOG members that are running even lighter 0W-20 oil in their Merc's without issue which may give you some reassurance.

 

[ltslimjim]

^This. Get a UOA performed on a fill of the 0w-30 and if it looks solid overall, especially viscosity wise, he's golden and doesn't need thicker.

 

[Dallas_E500]

That could be over about year apart if I were to use M1 0w30 and then 0w40. Need to decide whats the best route for the next OC which I plan to do this weekend. Especially since 0w30 does not meet any of the Euro Spec, afraid to use it, not sure if that's warranted, but rather be on the safe side.

Side note - looked at German Mobil site, used Google chrome to convert it, their 0w40 and 0w30 products seem different than what we get here.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Dallas_E350 you asked "any idea how the protection differs between M1's 0W-30 and 0W-40"?

That's the classic oil viscosity question.
The answer is, you want the oil to be "as light as possible but just as thick as necessary".

Since all oil is too thick on start-up M1 0W-30 will provide superior lubrication to M1 0W-40 until the oil temperature get too hot and therefore the oil gets too thin allowing for possible metal to metal contact. At that point the advantage of the heavier 0W-40 comes into play since it can handle higher oil temp's without getting "too thin".

The only way to know for sure if your oil is getting too hot and therefore too thin is with an oil pressure gauge.
But since you don't likely have an OP gauge installed you'll have to make some assumptions. If you drive sedately and rarely use WOT especially when the engine is hot then in all likelyhood the lighter M1 0W-30 will still provide sufficient high temp' viscosity.

Having said that, there are some BITOG members that are running even lighter 0W-20 oil in their Merc's without issue which may give you some reassurance.

That me !

Actually, I used M1 0W20 and PP and Synpower 5W20 in '00 MB E430 without any problems, even while driving From California to Vegas and back in summer months, passing Death Valleys with ambient temp as high as 120-128F. The engine is quieter with thinner oil than M1 0W40.

If I can get PP and/or Synpower 0W20 in 5 quart jugs I would use it in the E430 without reservation.

 

[CATERHAM]

HTSS_TR I know it's you but I didn't want to put you on the spot.
Thanks for coming forward!

 

[dailydriver]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
But if you want to stick with a HTHS 3.5cP 30wt you could consider Lucas 0W-30 which has the same VI as M1 0W-40 and exceeds BMW LL-1 requirements apparently.


ANY idea/clue as to what they use for basestocks in their newer 0W synthetics (if I recall correctly, NO ONE on here was all too impressed with their other, non-0W synthetics)??

 

[CATERHAM]

I think one of the main beefs with Lucas is their OTT advertising and pricing.
But from memory the 0W-30 can be had on line for $5/qt.
The base oil composition doesn't concern me much, it's performance I care about. At least on paper it looks a whole lot better than GC.
For a decent price I'd certainly try it.

 

[Dallas_E500]

The new Range Rover engines calls for 5w20, mine is still at 5w30. Thought the move to 5w20 was to get a better fuel rating rather than protection.

HTSS_TR have you done any UOA's on the 0w20 to determine any underlying benefits or side effects. Was the noise more on a 0w30 and 0w40.

Tend to have a heavy foot - so wondering if I should go that low in this heat

 

[vinu_neuro]

How did this discussion go to M1 0W-30 and 20wt oils. Dallas_E500, you're already using one of the better oils available in North America, and M1 0W-40 is arguably one of the best in the world. I would make the switch.

But do NOT look at M1 0W-30 or 20wt oils. Just stick with GC if you don't move to M1 0W-40.

 

[CATERHAM]

And then there are those that love to fear monger!

 

[30valve]

Just keep using GC. You have great UOAs on it. It is still available just hard to find right now. Castrol is changing the bottles to all be called 'Edge' now, so it is just the switchover that is making it scarce. If not GC then use M1 0w40, which is just as good.

Stick with Euro specs as that is what the engineers designed the engine to run on. Same price as other synthetics, so why not. Gas mileage change will be negligible by going for something thinner.