Interesting. No TSB then? They're just coming in with wiped cams after 5k OCI?
Switching from 0w-20 to 0w-30 experience
- Thread starter MuzzleFlash40
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10% is definitely an exaggeration, but they do make some difference. By switching to a smaller rim you are essentially replacing some of alloy wall with rubber wall, if that makes sense. That to a degree reduces unsprung mass, and makes a bit of difference on the track. On a street application I could imagine maybe a percent of fuel economy advantage? I am just making it up, i havent seen any numerical data on that so just speculating.
I'm really in facor of smaller wheels though. Not because of fuel economy, but because of potthole resistence. I know some people hate seeing wide walls, but honestly I really don't care at all
No, the mechanics opinion is to go with 5k OCI. Not sure where you're going with TSB comment.
Got it! Yet, I'm sure most customers are going 10k OCI. TSB comment was if the manufacturer has acknowledged an issue.
OEMs love this.
Camshaft wear is often just caused by poor metallurgy in some engines. No matter what we do with it 5k OCI usually helps on preventing caked up piston rings from degraded base oil or additives package, but rarely help on Camshaft, timing guide, or timing chain wear. Some engines just have poor quality parts. Probably using 0w40 helps, just like the bandaid on GM engines
One bottle of slick 50 for me and I don't worry about anything!
But how is the taste?
Starting to look at torco 0w20 for my next OC. I used to run torco in my Ducati, that is a fantastic oil but it's fairly costly.
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You should never put anything but high quality oil that meet the spec what manufacturer recommends. Adding snake oil, reduce the effectiveness of oil formulations that expensive to develop and tests.
4WD
$50 site donor 2025
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You know well what you are talking about. I did some reading about Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w30. It's ccs(4000) and mrv(10,200) are superior to the likes of Redline and HPL, and to Pennzoil Platinum It gets beat only by Amsoil SS, just by a hair. Shell oils are pretty good.
I'm sure we can go really really old school and use castor oil like the ww1 planes used in rotary engines. Castrol got their start in that and it is pretty high viscosity (never mind that once the oil vaporized from the heat, inhaling it had some interesting side effects so that pilots had to take stomach medication before they even started their engines)
Shell is probably gold standard when it comes to engine oils. For the price and performance it handily beats HPL, Amsoil type boutique brands across several criteria.
A lot of the people that purchase Amsoil, HPL, Redline are mostly interested in extended drain intervals or just prefer to have performance edge through out the interval. Penzoil is good oil. PUP is good for longer intervals. However throw 5%+ on any of those Shell products and they will tank compared to the so called boutique oils. At the end of the day every application is different so not everyone has the same needs.
Throw 5%+ of what? Fuel dilution?
Yes I forgot to add the word fuel.
How do boutiques stand up better against fuel dilution? Isn't it primarily just mixing a higher viscosity oil with a lower viscosity liquid (fuel)?
Just take a look at all the UOA. For example signature series. Outperforms most off the shelf oils with same viscosity and approvals.
It is just the same within the error bar, how people drive, weather, and samples variant. It is wear number/Sqrt( number of sample-1)
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