I just switched my moms 2006 chrysler town and country with 140,000 miles on it to castrol edge with syntec technology. Along with a fram ultra gaurd filter (part# xg16) I was wondering since synthetic is supposed to clean an engine should I change the oill sooner this time then go with extended drain intevals or go straight to extended intevals. (I'm planning on 7500 for oil 15000 for filter) any advice? Thanks. I'm new too synthetic in vehicles (been running it in all my toys for a long time)
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If you plan on seeking extended drains you're going to need to get UOAs done in order to guide you on how far is too far. As long as you aren't driving in severe conditions 6000-7500 shouldn't be an issue. If you want to push the oil further though, you're gonna have to invest in some analysis kits.
Stick with your original plan.....7500 is not an overly long OCI for a quality synthetic. IMO...you don't need a UOA for a 7500 OCI.
Your plan is exactly what I'll be doing on my next OCI, except I'll be using M1 0w20, and the Fram Ultra for two OCI's.
Your plan is exactly what I'll be doing on my next OCI, except I'll be using M1 0w20, and the Fram Ultra for two OCI's.
Driving conditions aren't too severe. Mostly trips into town and shopping. Although there is usually 2-3 400 mile road trips per oci. I was changing it every 5000 with castrol gtx hi mileage. And I don't see how its backwards to change the filter every other oil change. I'm sticking with oregoonians advice
Originally Posted By: jdawg89
Driving conditions aren't too severe. Mostly trips into town and shopping. Although there is usually 2-3 400 mile road trips per oci. I was changing it every 5000 with castrol gtx hi mileage. And I don't see how its backwards to change the filter every other oil change. I'm sticking with oregoonians advice
Short trips (city/town) are actually worse than long highway trips.
Driving conditions aren't too severe. Mostly trips into town and shopping. Although there is usually 2-3 400 mile road trips per oci. I was changing it every 5000 with castrol gtx hi mileage. And I don't see how its backwards to change the filter every other oil change. I'm sticking with oregoonians advice
Short trips (city/town) are actually worse than long highway trips.
The cost of the materials are insignificant compared to the time and effort to do the labor or the total cost of car ownership. A filter is equal to what? 1-2gallons of gas==40miles?
Is either the filter somehow easier/difficult to get to as compared to the oil? Just change both at the same time.
If the filter is somehow a boutique part and expensive(not part of an oilchange sale), plan ahead and get a bunch of OEM from your car dealer (or online).
But I suppose if you look at it practically, I think chances are your car will be fine either way.
You can maybe look into using a non-standard longer filter if you have space that gives you more filter material.
Is either the filter somehow easier/difficult to get to as compared to the oil? Just change both at the same time.
If the filter is somehow a boutique part and expensive(not part of an oilchange sale), plan ahead and get a bunch of OEM from your car dealer (or online).
But I suppose if you look at it practically, I think chances are your car will be fine either way.
You can maybe look into using a non-standard longer filter if you have space that gives you more filter material.
Yes,I know that town driving is terrible on oil lol. The reason I change the filter every other change is I've never had problems doing it. There is more room for a bigger filter..I could go that route...I've always used the fram extra guard not oem
For the cost of a filter I'd change each oil change.
As far as OCI, if no UOA, then I'd I would do the 1st at 7.5k and see how it is (I know I know).
Is it obvious looking into the oil filler if it's sludgy? Then maybe a sooner OCI till it cleans up a bit.
As far as OCI, if no UOA, then I'd I would do the 1st at 7.5k and see how it is (I know I know).
Is it obvious looking into the oil filler if it's sludgy? Then maybe a sooner OCI till it cleans up a bit.
Originally Posted By: skellyman
only 7500 on the oil ? but 15000 on the filter ?
sorry looks backwards to me , an do UOA's before you try to extend .
I definately agree. If your filter is getting full and the bypass opens you will have no filtration and never know it. Very few filters are designed to go that long. Most syntetics are good for 8-10k or 1 year.
only 7500 on the oil ? but 15000 on the filter ?
sorry looks backwards to me , an do UOA's before you try to extend .
I definately agree. If your filter is getting full and the bypass opens you will have no filtration and never know it. Very few filters are designed to go that long. Most syntetics are good for 8-10k or 1 year.
I would change it all at 7500 and be done with it. How much are you really saving by stretching the oil filter?
i change my oil filters every second time not to save money on filters but to stop the engine from running dry on the first start after an oil change
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
i change my oil filters every second time not to save money on filters but to stop the engine from running dry on the first start after an oil change
Pre-fill the new filter at each OCI to avoid any start-up issues. Even in cases where the filter is mounted horizontally, the saturated filter media will negate any issues since the filter will fill in microseconds when you hit the key to start.
Just think of all the previous oil/filter changes that were done in the usual manner without any start-up issues. The idea of immediate contamination of new oil by the flushing of dirty oil out of the old filter causes shivers up my spine. IMO, the contamination of the new oil far outweighs your concerns (which can be mitigated) about any fictional dry start-ups.
i change my oil filters every second time not to save money on filters but to stop the engine from running dry on the first start after an oil change
Pre-fill the new filter at each OCI to avoid any start-up issues. Even in cases where the filter is mounted horizontally, the saturated filter media will negate any issues since the filter will fill in microseconds when you hit the key to start.
Just think of all the previous oil/filter changes that were done in the usual manner without any start-up issues. The idea of immediate contamination of new oil by the flushing of dirty oil out of the old filter causes shivers up my spine. IMO, the contamination of the new oil far outweighs your concerns (which can be mitigated) about any fictional dry start-ups.
My dad and granddad have also did a filter every other change...no blown motors in this family.the old filter looks pretty good still with 10k on it. 8-10000 or a year? Try 35-40,000 a year. Next change I'm going to amsoil and doin it every 25k (I will change the filter evey chnge then)
i would recommend filter change at every oci. no sense in passing new oil through and old filter that has already been used for 7500 miles. there is no reason to do this when walmart carries mopar and those frams filters for $5-8. its only logical. why pass clean and expensive synthetic oil through a dirt old filter?
I have an '07 DGC with the 3.8L and I use the Wix 51085, $6.69 at your local O'Reilly Auto. It has the same bypass (Thread End) as the OE Mopar 090 which I like for our application. Personally I like the Wix since it has a silicone ADBV versus the Mopar's nitrile. It gets well under 0*F for months in MN so it is definitely a benefit up here. I run it with Mobil 0w30, great combo so far.
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