Supplier for AC Parts ( Blower Control Module)

[Snagglefoot]

Here is a screen shot from Rock Auto. Normally I would buy GM original parts but the costs on this 15 year old truck are nickle and diming me. I noticed Four Seasons carries a full line of AC parts. Has anyone used them with decent results? How about any other suppliers on the list? What’s your opinion? The prices are toggled for Canadian dollars.

 

[marc1]

My blower module popped on my 2006 GMC in 2017. I replaced it with a Four Seasons. I have always been happy with Four Seasons entire product line and this module was fine as well. The only drama, not Four Seasons related, is there are several styles of that module for my ex-2006 so I needed to be sure what one I had before I ordered, so I had to sort of do the job twice, once to verify the module to check the style, crawl back out from under the dash, order the part, redo the job. Mine was mounted on top of the heater housing passenger side and not easy to access.

 

[zzyzzx]

I would be OK with 4 seasons or Standard Motor. I would not buy a Dorman unless it was my only choice.

 

[paulo57509]

I'm running more than a few Four Seasons components in the Lumina without issues. I've seen some reports hearsay of them being crap nowadays.

However, for electrical given a choice I'd be more inclined to run Standard Motor Products (not their "T" series).

 

[ford46guy]

4 seasons is a pretty good brand, they are part of Standard. Probably a runner up to OEM.

 

[Chris142]

Make sure to replace the harness as well as the blower motor too

 

[Chris142]

4 seasons is a pretty good brand, they are part of Standard. Probably a runner up to OEM.

Their compressors are terrible. The rest seems ok

 

[Dave9]

Make sure to replace the harness as well as the blower motor too

Often this is not needed. I've replaced a few blower motor resistors but nothing else and they kept working years longer.

On the other hand, of course it could be a harness or motor issue causing the resistor module to blow, but often they just die from natural causes of # of thermal cycles causing the thermal fuse to fail. This assumes things like not having debris blocking the intake or the cabin filter clogged if so equipped, since they usually depend on the airflow to cool the resistive elements, or transistor heatsink for automatic climate control equipped vehicles.

I'd be fine with any brand you recognize because this is a simple part with little to go wrong, not like tolerances or inferior materials is likely to matter much, but as mentioned above you should make sure everything else is in good condition.

 

[Chris142]

Often this is not needed. I've replaced a few blower motor resistors but nothing else and they kept working years longer.

On the other hand, of course it could be a harness or motor issue causing the resistor module to blow, but often they just die from natural causes of # of thermal cycles causing the thermal fuse to fail. This assumes things like not having debris blocking the intake or the cabin filter clogged if so equipped, since they usually depend on the airflow to cool the resistive elements, or transistor heatsink for automatic climate control equipped vehicles.

I'd be fine with any brand you recognize because this is a simple part with little to go wrong, not like tolerances or inferior materials is likely to matter much, but as mentioned above you should make sure everything else is in good condition.

99% of the time the blower is dragging and takes the resister and harness with it.

 

[Dave9]

^ We'll have to disagree, I'd put it closer to 25% if that, depending on make/model.

Granted, there's a test for that. Normally the resistor module is bypassed for full fan speed so you can set it to full and see if it's making the airflow it should. If it's not, I would've replaced the blower before the resistor module blew, but if dealing with someone else's vehicle, they may have waited till it was a more complete failure.

It should never take the harness out unless we're talking about an insulation failure from age. That's why there's a fuse (not the one on the resistor module, rather the main fuse compartment fuse) , that should blow before that much current fries the wiring or connector, unless of course the connector was faulty in the first place, or someone swapped in a generic chinese fuse that doesn't blow at spec'd current. A lot can happen in 15 years, have to take each vehicle on a case by case basis.

I wouldn't replace anything else yet. Once the resistor is in, you can tell if it seems working properly. If it is overheating, the thermal fuse in it will work fine to cut power, it's a resettable fuse not a one-shot blown, so it will survive the test, but after a number of thermal cyclings over years, can fail open even if it doesn't reach its trip temperature. Seen it too many times from various things, automobiles to coffee makers, hair dryers, curling irons, space heaters, etc.

 

[Snagglefoot]

Thanks everyone. I ended up purchasing a BWD ( made in USA) resister module because I could get it fast. However, it turned out I also needed a blower motor and I purchased what was described as a Four Seasons motor but was labeled as Unimotor ( made in Canada apparently.) The system works great now. Time will tell. I’ll report back if anything fails.

 

[researcher]

Thanks everyone. I ended up purchasing a BWD ( made in USA) resister module because I could get it fast. However, it turned out I also needed a blower motor and I purchased what was described as a Four Seasons motor but was labeled as Unimotor ( made in Canada apparently.) The system works great now. Time will tell. I’ll report back if anything fails.

View attachment 157820View attachment 157821

Good to hear you got it running and running well! Ya only time is going to tell if it's a good fix.. Did you notice if the new fan blows air better than the old one? I noticed that when I replaced the Honda and Scion blower fans..

 

[Snagglefoot]

Good to hear you got it running and running well! Ya only time is going to tell if it's a good fix.. Did you notice if the new fan blows air better than the old one? I noticed that when I replaced the Honda and Scion blower fans..

Not sure if it’s better than when the original was new, but yes, it blows way better than the output in the last few years. Last fall I noticed the blower was “surging” which should have been the tip off. After 15 years and 240,000 miles on the original, it was slowly getting worn out. I recall thinking the heater output at the foot level was not that great. It’s good now.

 

[t1snwrbrdr12]

I just replaced a thermostat housing that lasted a whole 3 months. It was 4 seasons. It actually leaked immediately out of the cracked bleeder screw, so I installed the one off the oem housing. It made it 3 months like that before another hairline crack caused a leak.

 

[zzyzzx]

I just replaced a thermostat housing that lasted a whole 3 months. It was 4 seasons. It actually leaked immediately out of the cracked bleeder screw, so I installed the one off the oem housing. It made it 3 months like that before another hairline crack caused a leak.

Was the cracked thermostat housing plastic? If so, is there an aftermarket metal one available?

 

[researcher]

Not sure if it’s better than when the original was new, but yes, it blows way better than the output in the last few years. Last fall I noticed the blower was “surging” which should have been the tip off. After 15 years and 240,000 miles on the original, it was slowly getting worn out. I recall thinking the heater output at the foot level was not that great. It’s good now.

ahh yes the ol' "Getting used to it bad" sort of thing. and the surging of the power to the fan, hey for 15 years and 240k, got your moneys worth! glad it's good now! be nice with the summer temps coming the fan blowing the a/c cold temps well.

 

[t1snwrbrdr12]

Was the cracked thermostat housing plastic? If so, is there an aftermarket metal one available?

Yes, and yes I think Dorman and/or others make the coolant crossover (that the thermostat water outlet bolts to) and the water outlet in aluminum. This is government fleet though, so they’ll only get what is easiest to get, not best.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

^ We'll have to disagree, I'd put it closer to 25% if that, depending on make/model.

Granted, there's a test for that. Normally the resistor module is bypassed for full fan speed so you can set it to full and see if it's making the airflow it should. If it's not, I would've replaced the blower before the resistor module blew, but if dealing with someone else's vehicle, they may have waited till it was a more complete failure.

It should never take the harness out unless we're talking about an insulation failure from age. That's why there's a fuse (not the one on the resistor module, rather the main fuse compartment fuse) , that should blow before that much current fries the wiring or connector, unless of course the connector was faulty in the first place, or someone swapped in a generic chinese fuse that doesn't blow at spec'd current. A lot can happen in 15 years, have to take each vehicle on a case by case basis.

I wouldn't replace anything else yet. Once the resistor is in, you can tell if it seems working properly. If it is overheating, the thermal fuse in it will work fine to cut power, it's a resettable fuse not a one-shot blown, so it will survive the test, but after a number of thermal cyclings over years, can fail open even if it doesn't reach its trip temperature. Seen it too many times from various things, automobiles to coffee makers, hair dryers, curling irons, space heaters, etc.

I've replaced quite a few resistors only, and never had another problem.