What does the owners manual specify ?
Supertech Synthetic or Havoline Conventional 5w30?
- Thread starter oilchangeguy
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: WyrTwister
What does the owners manual specify ?
I bet 5w20
What does the owners manual specify ?
I bet 5w20
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Supertech dino is also plenty-good for your 4k OCIs. But for better engine protection when facing real cold or real hot temps, synthetics rule over conventional oils.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Speaking of similar.....
Hot oil I stay away from these days, when changing oil and the oil filter also. I do both separately these days.. I now wait to unscrew the drain bolt when shutting the engine off. Probably a good hour in the summer and 15 minute to a half-hour in the winter. I also wait an additional hour beyond draining the oil, to unscrew that hot oil filter.
No more will scalding-hot oil touch me..... with or without any gloves on. Those years are behind me now...... in my rear-view mirror.
Hot oil I stay away from these days, when changing oil and the oil filter also. I do both separately these days.. I now wait to unscrew the drain bolt when shutting the engine off. Probably a good hour in the summer and 15 minute to a half-hour in the winter. I also wait an additional hour beyond draining the oil, to unscrew that hot oil filter.
No more will scalding-hot oil touch me..... with or without any gloves on. Those years are behind me now...... in my rear-view mirror.
the oil temps get up to 230 ish.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
SuperTECH Synthetic
Originally Posted By: Triple_Se7en
Speaking of similar.....
Hot oil I stay away from these days, when changing oil and the oil filter also. I do both separately these days.. I now wait to unscrew the drain bolt when shutting the engine off. Probably a good hour in the summer and 15 minute to a half-hour in the winter. I also wait an additional hour beyond draining the oil, to unscrew that hot oil filter.
No more will scalding-hot oil touch me..... with or without any gloves on. Those years are behind me now...... in my rear-view mirror.
One side benefit of using water-thin 0W20--it'll drain no matter what temperature! I do my oil changes stone cold now, my 5S-FE has the filter behind the exhaust and it's just not worth it on that motor.
I figure, that's the point of having detergent in the oil in the first place. What isn't caught by the filter stays suspended. I'm not sure how much agitation actually occurs in the oil pan, but I'm a bit dubious that anything that settles out can be coaxed back into floating.
Speaking of similar.....
Hot oil I stay away from these days, when changing oil and the oil filter also. I do both separately these days.. I now wait to unscrew the drain bolt when shutting the engine off. Probably a good hour in the summer and 15 minute to a half-hour in the winter. I also wait an additional hour beyond draining the oil, to unscrew that hot oil filter.
No more will scalding-hot oil touch me..... with or without any gloves on. Those years are behind me now...... in my rear-view mirror.
One side benefit of using water-thin 0W20--it'll drain no matter what temperature! I do my oil changes stone cold now, my 5S-FE has the filter behind the exhaust and it's just not worth it on that motor.
I figure, that's the point of having detergent in the oil in the first place. What isn't caught by the filter stays suspended. I'm not sure how much agitation actually occurs in the oil pan, but I'm a bit dubious that anything that settles out can be coaxed back into floating.
Originally Posted By: supton
... I figure, that's the point of having detergent in the oil in the first place. What isn't caught by the filter stays suspended. I'm not sure how much agitation actually occurs in the oil pan, but I'm a bit dubious that anything that settles out can be coaxed back into floating.
Then why did I get sticky sediment stuck on the bottom of my used oil container? It came from oil that flowed out of the engine very nicely when HOT. (True of conventional oil from my previous cars, perhaps not of synthetic from the Prius.)
... I figure, that's the point of having detergent in the oil in the first place. What isn't caught by the filter stays suspended. I'm not sure how much agitation actually occurs in the oil pan, but I'm a bit dubious that anything that settles out can be coaxed back into floating.
Then why did I get sticky sediment stuck on the bottom of my used oil container? It came from oil that flowed out of the engine very nicely when HOT. (True of conventional oil from my previous cars, perhaps not of synthetic from the Prius.)
Originally Posted By: Dallas69
Originally Posted By: jongies3
Havoline has my vote, better oil and no need for synthetic at a 4000 mile interval.
Please explain how a very average dino is better than a full syn.
Yeah I don’t get the votes for Havoline either. Even at short drain intervals, synthetics beat conventionals in terms of shear resistance and things like that, so there’s no downside to running the synthetic even if you’re not maximizing its potential for service life. I would argue that Havoline at 4,000 miles isn’t making the most of its useable service life either, so that aspect of it goes out the window in this case.
Originally Posted By: jongies3
Havoline has my vote, better oil and no need for synthetic at a 4000 mile interval.
Please explain how a very average dino is better than a full syn.
Yeah I don’t get the votes for Havoline either. Even at short drain intervals, synthetics beat conventionals in terms of shear resistance and things like that, so there’s no downside to running the synthetic even if you’re not maximizing its potential for service life. I would argue that Havoline at 4,000 miles isn’t making the most of its useable service life either, so that aspect of it goes out the window in this case.
Last edited:
Whatever costs less.
- Status
Similar threads
