sounds good, those options sound good, esp @nick, but I'm thinking getting 2 bushings for 22 each after speedperks and then paying 25 per pushing to press them in is best, as I'd keep my OEM control arm. I just don't see a reason to change it out unless the control arm goes bad.
Struggling with 2003 Camry update
- Thread starter engineer20
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Originally Posted By: artbuc
Hey Eng20, are you happy now? You have 3 folks sucked into your web who are sincerely trying to help you.
Ever see the movie "One Flew Over The Cuckoo's Nest?" I think E20 is McMurphy and he's taking everyone's cigarettes.
Hey Eng20, are you happy now? You have 3 folks sucked into your web who are sincerely trying to help you.
Ever see the movie "One Flew Over The Cuckoo's Nest?" I think E20 is McMurphy and he's taking everyone's cigarettes.
Originally Posted By: engineer20
I just don't see a reason to change it out unless the control arm goes bad.
Because 1) the control arm may corrode in Michigan?, 2) the bushing you pick is not really good bushing?, 3) You can get the same quality for less trouble and not much more cost by buying a whole control arm?
How much is your gas, time to go toward and from the mechanic to press thing in, and what if it goes bad? and remember, if you do not install the control arm right (preload the bushing) you can destroy it very quickly.
I just don't see a reason to change it out unless the control arm goes bad.
Because 1) the control arm may corrode in Michigan?, 2) the bushing you pick is not really good bushing?, 3) You can get the same quality for less trouble and not much more cost by buying a whole control arm?
How much is your gas, time to go toward and from the mechanic to press thing in, and what if it goes bad? and remember, if you do not install the control arm right (preload the bushing) you can destroy it very quickly.
Originally Posted By: Bill_G
Originally Posted By: artbuc
Hey Eng20, are you happy now? You have 3 folks sucked into your web who are sincerely trying to help you.
Ever see the movie "One Flew Over The Cuckoo's Nest?" I think E20 is McMurphy and he's taking everyone's cigarettes.
"Being There" except he talks a helluva lot more (and drives?!)
Originally Posted By: artbuc
Hey Eng20, are you happy now? You have 3 folks sucked into your web who are sincerely trying to help you.
Ever see the movie "One Flew Over The Cuckoo's Nest?" I think E20 is McMurphy and he's taking everyone's cigarettes.
"Being There" except he talks a helluva lot more (and drives?!)
i drove thru the snowstorm yesterday on I96 between lansing and greater detroit. did i damamge the car?
At one point, at an exit, my car was stuck at one of the surface streets and then a guy in a pickup truck towed me out. He had a rope, and then towed me to the freeway ramp (nearby) and then I was all set, except there was snow on the roads, and it was slippery, and when I was stuck, it was as if steering was useless. I rocked my car back/forth, I didn't damage the trans, did I? Will it damage the cv axle or the axle seals? what part of the trans can get damaged? I didn't do anything crazy, max was about 4 rpms or 4000 at one point, but I kept it to 3 or below and would give up as more rpms is useless, and I was stuck a few times, but was able to get out at below 4000 rpms, but this one time, I was basically in the ditch, the road was going uphill to a stop sign. The other time was when it was going uphill at a mcd. There was an alternative exit that went downhill, so I took that one, but I was revving to like 3000 rpms and the wheels were spinning at 30-40mph (which i saw on the speedometer) when in reality, I was going below 10. I didn't damamge anything did i? I started off with the car in neutral, then he told me to put it in drive, when he towed it to the on ramp of the freeway (it was like .1 mile away, not very far), I didn't damage anything, did I? pUt it in drive or neutral, when you're being towed, or does it not matter for such a short distance, as I'd typically put it in neutral, when the towtruck would come in the past. Thank goodness I dind't need to call a towtruck, and a guy in a heavy duty pickup truck (was a chevy silverado or something like that, but the hd kind, not the simple one), volunteered to help me out and he was heading to the same ramp too, so that was nice.
At one point, at an exit, my car was stuck at one of the surface streets and then a guy in a pickup truck towed me out. He had a rope, and then towed me to the freeway ramp (nearby) and then I was all set, except there was snow on the roads, and it was slippery, and when I was stuck, it was as if steering was useless. I rocked my car back/forth, I didn't damage the trans, did I? Will it damage the cv axle or the axle seals? what part of the trans can get damaged? I didn't do anything crazy, max was about 4 rpms or 4000 at one point, but I kept it to 3 or below and would give up as more rpms is useless, and I was stuck a few times, but was able to get out at below 4000 rpms, but this one time, I was basically in the ditch, the road was going uphill to a stop sign. The other time was when it was going uphill at a mcd. There was an alternative exit that went downhill, so I took that one, but I was revving to like 3000 rpms and the wheels were spinning at 30-40mph (which i saw on the speedometer) when in reality, I was going below 10. I didn't damamge anything did i? I started off with the car in neutral, then he told me to put it in drive, when he towed it to the on ramp of the freeway (it was like .1 mile away, not very far), I didn't damage anything, did I? pUt it in drive or neutral, when you're being towed, or does it not matter for such a short distance, as I'd typically put it in neutral, when the towtruck would come in the past. Thank goodness I dind't need to call a towtruck, and a guy in a heavy duty pickup truck (was a chevy silverado or something like that, but the hd kind, not the simple one), volunteered to help me out and he was heading to the same ramp too, so that was nice.
@pandabear, im' not wasting much ggas going to the mechanic, he's near my workplace.
Near my workplace, there's a lot of stores/mechanics/auto parts stores, where I live, about 10+ miles away, not so much and is much more residential, so I don't really waste much since I Have to go to work anyways, and I could drop the car off after work to have him press it in. That's the shop that does it for 25 dollars, it's near my workplace.
Near my workplace, there's a lot of stores/mechanics/auto parts stores, where I live, about 10+ miles away, not so much and is much more residential, so I don't really waste much since I Have to go to work anyways, and I could drop the car off after work to have him press it in. That's the shop that does it for 25 dollars, it's near my workplace.
will being stuck in the snow damange a wheel bearing or suspension components, as I've heard about it damanging the trans, waht about the suspension or wheel bearings? D or N when you're benig towed with a rope by a heavy duty pickup truck?
The only thing that would be damaged is your muffler bearings. Replace them ASAP.
Too bad you were towed by a heavy duty pickup, a regular one would have been fine.
Too bad you were towed by a heavy duty pickup, a regular one would have been fine.
Originally Posted By: engineer20
will being stuck in the snow damange a wheel bearing or suspension components, as I've heard about it damanging the trans, waht about the suspension or wheel bearings? D or N when you're benig towed with a rope by a heavy duty pickup truck?
No, you can only use a rope with a regular truck. You MUST use a chain with a heavy duty truck.
will being stuck in the snow damange a wheel bearing or suspension components, as I've heard about it damanging the trans, waht about the suspension or wheel bearings? D or N when you're benig towed with a rope by a heavy duty pickup truck?
No, you can only use a rope with a regular truck. You MUST use a chain with a heavy duty truck.
engineer20, why not just join AAA? I got it for like $55 the first year. Hopefully, the transmission casing didn't get cracked at all.
I'm pretty sure you've damaged your car, not because of the towing or the snowstorm or spinning tires on snow, but because you've done a lot of crazy preventive maintenance with the wrong procedures.
I hope you learned about it already before you got your driver's license:
When your tires lost traction, your wheel will spin faster and your speedometer is not telling you how fast your car is going, but how fast your tires are spinning. You should immediately slow down so your tires can get as much traction as possible. Do not step on gas or steer until you regain traction.
You likely didn't damage your transmission or suspension because of the spinning unless you did it too fast (like when you are going 70mph) and 1 drive wheel lift off the road, and the car has no limited slip differential. This usually only happens on a race track.
I hope you learned about it already before you got your driver's license:
When your tires lost traction, your wheel will spin faster and your speedometer is not telling you how fast your car is going, but how fast your tires are spinning. You should immediately slow down so your tires can get as much traction as possible. Do not step on gas or steer until you regain traction.
You likely didn't damage your transmission or suspension because of the spinning unless you did it too fast (like when you are going 70mph) and 1 drive wheel lift off the road, and the car has no limited slip differential. This usually only happens on a race track.
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Originally Posted By: engineer20
i drove thru the snowstorm yesterday on I96 between Lansing and greater Detroit. did i damage the car?
That transmission fluid probably boiled, and either oxidized, or thinned out to the point where you shouldn't drive on it for more than another 3 weeks. After that point, you're going to do irreparable damage to the seals internal to the torque converter, and the o-rings that seal the shifter control solenoids.
Once that happens, you're going to have pressure line loss internal to the transmission, and you will notices that some shifts are softer/slower, while other shifts are more harsh, have a greater impact.
If you start noticing that you shifting quality has changed over the next week, you need to change that transmission fluid asap. Especially the fluid in the torque converter. And don't forget the fluid in the differential. Its a different fluid, but it will affect the way the car performs.
BC.
i drove thru the snowstorm yesterday on I96 between Lansing and greater Detroit. did i damage the car?
That transmission fluid probably boiled, and either oxidized, or thinned out to the point where you shouldn't drive on it for more than another 3 weeks. After that point, you're going to do irreparable damage to the seals internal to the torque converter, and the o-rings that seal the shifter control solenoids.
Once that happens, you're going to have pressure line loss internal to the transmission, and you will notices that some shifts are softer/slower, while other shifts are more harsh, have a greater impact.
If you start noticing that you shifting quality has changed over the next week, you need to change that transmission fluid asap. Especially the fluid in the torque converter. And don't forget the fluid in the differential. Its a different fluid, but it will affect the way the car performs.
BC.
Originally Posted By: Bladecutter
Originally Posted By: engineer20
i drove thru the snowstorm yesterday on I96 between Lansing and greater Detroit. did i damage the car?
That transmission fluid probably boiled, and either oxidized, or thinned out to the point where you shouldn't drive on it for more than another 3 weeks. After that point, you're going to do irreparable damage to the seals internal to the torque converter, and the o-rings that seal the shifter control solenoids.
Once that happens, you're going to have pressure line loss internal to the transmission, and you will notices that some shifts are softer/slower, while other shifts are more harsh, have a greater impact.
If you start noticing that you shifting quality has changed over the next week, you need to change that transmission fluid asap. Especially the fluid in the torque converter. And don't forget the fluid in the differential. Its a different fluid, but it will affect the way the car performs.
BC.
I doubt it boiled, and differential fluid on a Toyota Camry?
Originally Posted By: engineer20
i drove thru the snowstorm yesterday on I96 between Lansing and greater Detroit. did i damage the car?
That transmission fluid probably boiled, and either oxidized, or thinned out to the point where you shouldn't drive on it for more than another 3 weeks. After that point, you're going to do irreparable damage to the seals internal to the torque converter, and the o-rings that seal the shifter control solenoids.
Once that happens, you're going to have pressure line loss internal to the transmission, and you will notices that some shifts are softer/slower, while other shifts are more harsh, have a greater impact.
If you start noticing that you shifting quality has changed over the next week, you need to change that transmission fluid asap. Especially the fluid in the torque converter. And don't forget the fluid in the differential. Its a different fluid, but it will affect the way the car performs.
BC.
I doubt it boiled, and differential fluid on a Toyota Camry?
Originally Posted By: PandaBear
Originally Posted By: Bladecutter
Originally Posted By: engineer20
i drove thru the snowstorm yesterday on I96 between Lansing and greater Detroit. did i damage the car?
That transmission fluid probably boiled, and either oxidized, or thinned out to the point where you shouldn't drive on it for more than another 3 weeks. After that point, you're going to do irreparable damage to the seals internal to the torque converter, and the o-rings that seal the shifter control solenoids.
Once that happens, you're going to have pressure line loss internal to the transmission, and you will notices that some shifts are softer/slower, while other shifts are more harsh, have a greater impact.
If you start noticing that you shifting quality has changed over the next week, you need to change that transmission fluid asap. Especially the fluid in the torque converter. And don't forget the fluid in the differential. Its a different fluid, but it will affect the way the car performs.
BC.
I doubt it boiled, and differential fluid on a Toyota Camry?
Yes, differential fluid.
Even fwd vehicles still have to transfer the power of the transmission output shaft to the front wheels of the car. This requires a differential.
http://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/omms/MSTOY03_MS0003/pdf/01omsour/2003/schedule/toyotasc.pdf
Go to page 36.
You will see differential oil mentioned on this page.
BC.
Originally Posted By: Bladecutter
Originally Posted By: engineer20
i drove thru the snowstorm yesterday on I96 between Lansing and greater Detroit. did i damage the car?
That transmission fluid probably boiled, and either oxidized, or thinned out to the point where you shouldn't drive on it for more than another 3 weeks. After that point, you're going to do irreparable damage to the seals internal to the torque converter, and the o-rings that seal the shifter control solenoids.
Once that happens, you're going to have pressure line loss internal to the transmission, and you will notices that some shifts are softer/slower, while other shifts are more harsh, have a greater impact.
If you start noticing that you shifting quality has changed over the next week, you need to change that transmission fluid asap. Especially the fluid in the torque converter. And don't forget the fluid in the differential. Its a different fluid, but it will affect the way the car performs.
BC.
I doubt it boiled, and differential fluid on a Toyota Camry?
Yes, differential fluid.
Even fwd vehicles still have to transfer the power of the transmission output shaft to the front wheels of the car. This requires a differential.
http://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/document/omms/MSTOY03_MS0003/pdf/01omsour/2003/schedule/toyotasc.pdf
Go to page 36.
You will see differential oil mentioned on this page.
BC.
Originally Posted By: qwerty1234
engineer20, why not just join AAA? I got it for like $55 the first year.
I think you put one too many A's there. And, it's free.
engineer20, why not just join AAA? I got it for like $55 the first year.
I think you put one too many A's there. And, it's free.
It's been snowy these past few days, asnd to get on the road/drive, you pretty much have to make the wheels spin. Nothing crazy, but the speedometer did say 40 at times, otherwise, I simply wouldn't move because I don't have esc, on the taurus, which has esc, you can move thru snow without having the wheels spin as well as traction control and that makes snow handling MUCH BETTER.
Also, I took the car to a Belle Tire yesterday for them to inspect the rear struts, control arm/bushings, and wheel bearinjgs, and they told me nothing was wrong. i honestly think they lied to me and that they didn't even look at the car. At 6:30, they said they'd finish by 8 and that it'd take a while, and they said the car would be in at 7. At 6:40, the car was pulled "in" except I coudln't see it in the garage, nor could I see it in the parking lot, and they told me it was pulled in but they have 2 garages and my car was pulled into the back garage I couldn't see. Then, at 7pm, they claimed they were finished, and I think thye lied and didnt' even inspect the car, it'd probably take more than 20 minutes to look at everything. They said they test drove it on a "back track" and I've never seen that nor the back garage either, they tricked me, right? As just 2 weeks ago, I went to another belle tire, or was it 3-4, it was within the last month, and said my left front wheel bearing was bad as well as a control arm bushing, so I don't know why they'd say nothing's wrong when I hear a noise and think it's a control arm bushing. I'll take my control arms off (ordered 2 moog bushings for 25 after tax, 42.99-20 at advance auto with speedperks) and will remove them and take it to that shop that can press them in for 25 dollars per bushing. I'll have them look at the control arm I've taken off and provided them, and before they press it in, they can tell me if it's bad or not, if not, I won't change them, but if yes, I'll change them out.
At nearly 170k miles, it wouldn't hurt to change them out with moog bushings, right? Are the moogs oem quality or will they last a while? Thank.
Also, I took the car to a Belle Tire yesterday for them to inspect the rear struts, control arm/bushings, and wheel bearinjgs, and they told me nothing was wrong. i honestly think they lied to me and that they didn't even look at the car. At 6:30, they said they'd finish by 8 and that it'd take a while, and they said the car would be in at 7. At 6:40, the car was pulled "in" except I coudln't see it in the garage, nor could I see it in the parking lot, and they told me it was pulled in but they have 2 garages and my car was pulled into the back garage I couldn't see. Then, at 7pm, they claimed they were finished, and I think thye lied and didnt' even inspect the car, it'd probably take more than 20 minutes to look at everything. They said they test drove it on a "back track" and I've never seen that nor the back garage either, they tricked me, right? As just 2 weeks ago, I went to another belle tire, or was it 3-4, it was within the last month, and said my left front wheel bearing was bad as well as a control arm bushing, so I don't know why they'd say nothing's wrong when I hear a noise and think it's a control arm bushing. I'll take my control arms off (ordered 2 moog bushings for 25 after tax, 42.99-20 at advance auto with speedperks) and will remove them and take it to that shop that can press them in for 25 dollars per bushing. I'll have them look at the control arm I've taken off and provided them, and before they press it in, they can tell me if it's bad or not, if not, I won't change them, but if yes, I'll change them out.
At nearly 170k miles, it wouldn't hurt to change them out with moog bushings, right? Are the moogs oem quality or will they last a while? Thank.
so if there is differential fluid, where is the drain/fill port and how do I change it and how often should I change it? What kind of fluid do I use? Valvoline Maxlife trans fluid?
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