Originally Posted By: Loogie
The leads are in the correct jacks.
I was able to get a reading of 0.01-0.02mA on the 0-200 scale, so I think the fuses are ok.
Interestingly, when I first connect the leads on the 10A scale, it first reads .080 and after about 10 seconds it drops to .029.
I assume something is powering up and settling down (computer, stereo antitheft, etc).
I'm getting the same reading from two multimeters.
This is maddening and embarrassing because I'm a former master mechanic...yes... specialized in driveability.
Bob
Looks like your 10A scale is working, .080 amps equals 80 milliamps, .029 amps equals 29 milliamps. It you want to further test this......With the meter hooked in series, Take a incandescent test light hooked to the positive battery terminal & probe a good ground on the engine somewhere, The meter should increase to around 1/2 a amp or 500 milliamps.
I use a test light because it's a fairly known low load device for the 10a scale. IIRC some cheap multimeters are not fused on the 10a scale!
It also looks like your milliamp jack fuse is blown, VERY easy to do!!! Never complete the circuit with the 2 amp milliamp jack fuse or the 10a amp jack fuse! Use a jumper wire to do the initial hook-up....Wait a few minutes to let the modules go to sleep. Unhook the jumper wire to allow the current to flow through the meter.
29 milliamps is right where you want to be with a basic modern car. Some upscale vehicles will draw more.