Straight 30 or 15W40 for hard use air cooled small engine?

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Sep 26, 2021
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Houston Texas
Say Rotella T-1 SAE 30 ($18 gallon) vs Rotella T4 15W40 ($16 a gallon) to keep it brand comparable.

In something like a pressure washer or generator in hot weather.
 
OTOH, the 30 is a straight weight with a lot of VIIs in it. I find in my OPE a straight weight holds up better, even if not as thick, because it is not as adulterated. If you need to run it in sub-freezing temps, then the multigrade makes sense. OTOH, what is the difference between T1 and T4? I’m not familiar with T1 and this sounds like it might not be an apples-to-apples comparison.
 
OTOH, the 30 is a straight weight with a lot of VIIs in it. I find in my OPE a straight weight holds up better, even if not as thick, because it is not as adulterated. If you need to run it in sub-freezing temps, then the multigrade makes sense. OTOH, what is the difference between T1 and T4? I’m not familiar with T1 and this sounds like it might not be an apples-to-apples comparison.
Why would an SAE 30 contain "lots of VIIs in it"? It can be made with straight base stock and no VII. Rotella T1 SAE 30 has a VI of 101 (PDS). It likely contains base oil, DI package and maybe additional PPD.
 
OTOH, the 30 is a straight weight with a lot of VIIs in it. I find in my OPE a straight weight holds up better, even if not as thick, because it is not as adulterated. If you need to run it in sub-freezing temps, then the multigrade makes sense. OTOH, what is the difference between T1 and T4? I’m not familiar with T1 and this sounds like it might not be an apples-to-apples comparison.
Say what?
 
Whatever viscosity oil the manufacturer recommends I would run but in full synthetic and run it without worry. If 5w/30 is spec'd - running a 5w/30 full syn is better then running a higher viscosity 15w/40 - since breakdown is really not an issue and running the thicker oil will provide no real benefits and might actually cause a hotter running motor due to the heavier viscosity.
 
Why would an SAE 30 contain "lots of VIIs in it"? It can be made with straight base stock and no VII. Rotella T1 SAE 30 has a VI of 101 (PDS). It likely contains base oil, DI package and maybe additional PPD.

That was supposed to say “LOTS LESS” and the dang auto-correct took it out/clipped it and I missed it. My bad. I mainly use an iPad and the native auto-correct changes a lot of words. I have to proofread like it’s Middle School; overall does NOT reduce errors and creates more issues.

Sorry.
 
That was supposed to say “LOTS LESS” and the dang auto-correct took it out/clipped it and I missed it. My bad. I mainly use an iPad and the native auto-correct changes a lot of words. I have to proofread like it’s Middle School; overall does NOT reduce errors and creates more issues.
And per SAE J300 I don't think a properly labeled monograde can contain any VM, not just a lot less. The reverse is true that you can have a multi-viscosity oil with no VM but not the other way around.
 
The ope engines are low out put and low pressure engines being air cooles they get [hot] so a decent quality and viscosity is important and most important change the oil some what regularly !
 
when a difference makes no difference, use whatever oil you have that is on the shelf in the garage.
In this case it does matter. See SAE J300. HTHS of 2.9 vs 3.7 matters a lot in high temperature / high load applications. Just ask CUJET about all the rod failures on generators running 5w-30 after hurricanes in Florida. 5w-40 is just a 5w-30 on mild steroids; it's not anything close to a straight SAE30.
 
In this case it does matter. See SAE J300. HTHS of 2.9 vs 3.7 matters a lot in high temperature / high load applications. Just ask CUJET about all the rod failures on generators running 5w-30 after hurricanes in Florida. 5w-40 is just a 5w-30 on mild steroids; it's not anything close to a straight SAE30.
I run 20w50 in my small gas stuff, but I do run it into moderately cold weather
 
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