I just replaced the cylinder and piston on a stihl 036. Cleaned it all up, and had it tuned up. I went with a meteor piston/cylinder set. Not Chinese. Anyways, what is the ideal compression that I should have? And what's the best way to "seat" the rings and break it in? Thanks guys.
Stihl chainsaw compression test
- Thread starter Joe_Power
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Originally Posted By: dave123
Throw it in the dumpster with the rest of the Stihl junk you buy you will thank me later
Haha!! Funny you mention that. I pretty much dug it out of a dumpster, and refurbed it. The previous owner ran it too hot for too long. $180 bucks for a $600 saw??? Yes Please!!!!!
Throw it in the dumpster with the rest of the Stihl junk you buy you will thank me later
Haha!! Funny you mention that. I pretty much dug it out of a dumpster, and refurbed it. The previous owner ran it too hot for too long. $180 bucks for a $600 saw??? Yes Please!!!!!
Originally Posted By: Joe_Power
I just replaced the cylinder and piston on a stihl 036. Cleaned it all up, and had it tuned up. I went with a meteor piston/cylinder set. Not Chinese. Anyways, what is the ideal compression that I should have? And what's the best way to "seat" the rings and break it in? Thanks guys.
Have you looked online for a manual?
I just replaced the cylinder and piston on a stihl 036. Cleaned it all up, and had it tuned up. I went with a meteor piston/cylinder set. Not Chinese. Anyways, what is the ideal compression that I should have? And what's the best way to "seat" the rings and break it in? Thanks guys.
Have you looked online for a manual?
Quote:
Throw it in the dumpster with the rest of the Stihl junk you buy you will thank me later
What would you buy and why not Stihl. I am in the market for a professional quality long lasting chainsaw and Stihl was toward the top of my list.
Throw it in the dumpster with the rest of the Stihl junk you buy you will thank me later
What would you buy and why not Stihl. I am in the market for a professional quality long lasting chainsaw and Stihl was toward the top of my list.
Originally Posted By: Michael_P
Quote:
Throw it in the dumpster with the rest of the Stihl junk you buy you will thank me later
What would you buy and why not Stihl. I am in the market for a professional quality long lasting chainsaw and Stihl was toward the top of my list.
Not bashing Stihl some inside stuff any Stihl pro saw is great just as a husky XP pro saws.
Quote:
Throw it in the dumpster with the rest of the Stihl junk you buy you will thank me later
What would you buy and why not Stihl. I am in the market for a professional quality long lasting chainsaw and Stihl was toward the top of my list.
Not bashing Stihl some inside stuff any Stihl pro saw is great just as a husky XP pro saws.
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: Joe_Power
I just replaced the cylinder and piston on a stihl 036. Cleaned it all up, and had it tuned up. I went with a meteor piston/cylinder set. Not Chinese. Anyways, what is the ideal compression that I should have? And what's the best way to "seat" the rings and break it in? Thanks guys.
Have you looked online for a manual?
Nope. I did one better......I enlisted the intelligent Bitogians, to give me their expert opinions.....
Originally Posted By: Joe_Power
I just replaced the cylinder and piston on a stihl 036. Cleaned it all up, and had it tuned up. I went with a meteor piston/cylinder set. Not Chinese. Anyways, what is the ideal compression that I should have? And what's the best way to "seat" the rings and break it in? Thanks guys.
Have you looked online for a manual?
Nope. I did one better......I enlisted the intelligent Bitogians, to give me their expert opinions.....
Originally Posted By: dave123
Originally Posted By: Michael_P
Quote:
Throw it in the dumpster with the rest of the Stihl junk you buy you will thank me later
What would you buy and why not Stihl. I am in the market for a professional quality long lasting chainsaw and Stihl was toward the top of my list.
Not bashing Stihl some inside stuff any Stihl pro saw is hands down better than husky XP pro saws.
Fixed it for ya, Dave!!!!
Originally Posted By: Michael_P
Quote:
Throw it in the dumpster with the rest of the Stihl junk you buy you will thank me later
What would you buy and why not Stihl. I am in the market for a professional quality long lasting chainsaw and Stihl was toward the top of my list.
Not bashing Stihl some inside stuff any Stihl pro saw is hands down better than husky XP pro saws.
Fixed it for ya, Dave!!!!
Originally Posted By: Joe_Power
Originally Posted By: dave123
Originally Posted By: Michael_P
Quote:
Throw it in the dumpster with the rest of the Stihl junk you buy you will thank me later
What would you buy and why not Stihl. I am in the market for a professional quality long lasting chainsaw and Stihl was toward the top of my list.
Not bashing Stihl some inside stuff any Stihl pro saw is hands down better than husky XP pro saws.
Fixed it for ya, Dave!!!!
So why are we dumpster diving and fixing a junk Stihl saws answer they both build quality and you can junk any of them.
Originally Posted By: dave123
Originally Posted By: Michael_P
Quote:
Throw it in the dumpster with the rest of the Stihl junk you buy you will thank me later
What would you buy and why not Stihl. I am in the market for a professional quality long lasting chainsaw and Stihl was toward the top of my list.
Not bashing Stihl some inside stuff any Stihl pro saw is hands down better than husky XP pro saws.
Fixed it for ya, Dave!!!!
So why are we dumpster diving and fixing a junk Stihl saws answer they both build quality and you can junk any of them.
Originally Posted By: Joe_Power
Originally Posted By: dave123
Throw it in the dumpster with the rest of the Stihl junk you buy you will thank me later
Haha!! Funny you mention that. I pretty much dug it out of a dumpster, and refurbed it. The previous owner ran it too hot for too long. $180 bucks for a $600 saw??? Yes Please!!!!!
So are you to tell us a Stihl saw can not handle cutting full load all day long or it burns up really that's what your going with.
Originally Posted By: dave123
Throw it in the dumpster with the rest of the Stihl junk you buy you will thank me later
Haha!! Funny you mention that. I pretty much dug it out of a dumpster, and refurbed it. The previous owner ran it too hot for too long. $180 bucks for a $600 saw??? Yes Please!!!!!
So are you to tell us a Stihl saw can not handle cutting full load all day long or it burns up really that's what your going with.
Originally Posted By: dave123
Throw it in the dumpster with the rest of the Stihl junk you buy you will thank me later
Are you being sarcastic/jealous?
If not are you an I di ot?
Throw it in the dumpster with the rest of the Stihl junk you buy you will thank me later
Are you being sarcastic/jealous?
If not are you an I di ot?
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Brybo86
Originally Posted By: dave123
Throw it in the dumpster with the rest of the Stihl junk you buy you will thank me later
Are you being sarcastic/jealous?
If not are you an I di ot?
Stihl builds a quality saw just as Husky can own both of them myself.
Originally Posted By: dave123
Throw it in the dumpster with the rest of the Stihl junk you buy you will thank me later
Are you being sarcastic/jealous?
If not are you an I di ot?
Stihl builds a quality saw just as Husky can own both of them myself.
Anyone for a Snickers?
Originally Posted By: dave123
Originally Posted By: Joe_Power
Originally Posted By: dave123
Throw it in the dumpster with the rest of the Stihl junk you buy you will thank me later
Haha!! Funny you mention that. I pretty much dug it out of a dumpster, and refurbed it. The previous owner ran it too hot for too long. $180 bucks for a $600 saw??? Yes Please!!!!!
So are you to tell us a Stihl saw can not handle cutting full load all day long or it burns up really that's what your going with.
Sheesh Dave! Don't get so butt hurt!! The previous owner ran this saw waaay too lean. The carb adjustments were all screwed up. That's why it toasted the piston.
Anyways, back to my original question......
What is the ideal compression that I should have? And what's the best way to "seat" the rings and break it in?
Originally Posted By: Joe_Power
Originally Posted By: dave123
Throw it in the dumpster with the rest of the Stihl junk you buy you will thank me later
Haha!! Funny you mention that. I pretty much dug it out of a dumpster, and refurbed it. The previous owner ran it too hot for too long. $180 bucks for a $600 saw??? Yes Please!!!!!
So are you to tell us a Stihl saw can not handle cutting full load all day long or it burns up really that's what your going with.
Sheesh Dave! Don't get so butt hurt!! The previous owner ran this saw waaay too lean. The carb adjustments were all screwed up. That's why it toasted the piston.
Anyways, back to my original question......
What is the ideal compression that I should have? And what's the best way to "seat" the rings and break it in?
I can't offer much in the way of compression specs- though if I had to guess, I'd expect to see at least 120lbs.
My advice on ring seating... Don't do anything special. No extra oil, don't run it rich and no babying. Mix up a batch of fresh fuel and let 'er rip! Seriously. I can go into a long winded response on why I say that and what I've noticed, but suffice it to say- I've noticed better results by just "giving it" to a fresh top end.
My advice on ring seating... Don't do anything special. No extra oil, don't run it rich and no babying. Mix up a batch of fresh fuel and let 'er rip! Seriously. I can go into a long winded response on why I say that and what I've noticed, but suffice it to say- I've noticed better results by just "giving it" to a fresh top end.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Joe_Power
I just replaced the cylinder and piston on a stihl 036. Cleaned it all up, and had it tuned up. I went with a meteor piston/cylinder set. Not Chinese. Anyways, what is the ideal compression that I should have? And what's the best way to "seat" the rings and break it in? Thanks guys.
You will get best answer on Arboristsite/chainsaws
I just replaced the cylinder and piston on a stihl 036. Cleaned it all up, and had it tuned up. I went with a meteor piston/cylinder set. Not Chinese. Anyways, what is the ideal compression that I should have? And what's the best way to "seat" the rings and break it in? Thanks guys.
You will get best answer on Arboristsite/chainsaws
I currently have a Poulan. I can never count on it and I cant get carbide blades for it even if I change the bar due to tooth count on the sprocket. I have rebuilt the carb several times over 10 years and even put on a new carb. It always fails when I need it the most. I bought it new 10 years ago and have been frustrated with it since day one. If I fill it with bar lube, I end up with a puddle the next day regardless how I store it. I've gotta think based on all the pros who cut for living and their recommendations, a dumpster Stihl is better than a new consumer grade chainsaw.
According to my stihl MS362C manual, IIRC you are supposed to avoid full throttle for the first 5 tanks of mix and avoid free revving when not cutting (not in the wood) Well beyond my 5th tank now I am very pleased with it.
Are these guideline really necessary? Regardless, getting the engine up to temp before doing any real work would likely be good for the new top end while running it in.
Congrats on the 036!!
Are these guideline really necessary? Regardless, getting the engine up to temp before doing any real work would likely be good for the new top end while running it in.
Congrats on the 036!!
This should be close to yours, anything over 150 should be okay. Nothing special to 2 stroke break in, just let it run a couple of min before putting it to work and use normally.
No free revving.
No free revving.
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