Splash Guard: Drill Out Screws Rusted in Place?

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So my 1999 Toyota Corolla Splash Guard (which covers where the serpentine belt and the oil pan under the car) ripped off when I hit a bit of snow when backing up. The head of the screws for the splash guard just disintegrated with all the years of salt. The rest of the screws (minus the heads) are rusted in place.

So I have two questions. How do I get out those rusted screws (that are minus the heads) and how do I replace them?

Here is one idea: drill out the screws and replace them with some sort of self-tapping screw.

Any ideas for the drill bit to use or the screws to replace them? I had tried some zip ties but they don't seem to hold well.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Are they screws or small bolts? IIRC they used a 10mm socket/JIS head 6mm bolt.


Small bolts, 10mm socket.
 
You do whatever lets you sleep peaceably; but I know that what I would do when I get them out would be to replace them with something which would absolutely not rust in the future; either stainless or nylon.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
That's what I thought. Is there enough of the bolt left to get small vise grips on?


Nope. They are recessed a bit.
 
I use a Craftsman easy out socket on my rusted and rounded off hex bolts. I always got them out as long as the bolt doesn't snap.
 
Drill it out. I had a 2001 Corolla. I broke my smallest easy out in one of those bolts and spent the better part of an hour drilling the whole mess out.

Drilled the hole a bit bigger then used a common plastic push plug.
 
Originally Posted By: cjcride
Drill it out. I had a 2001 Corolla. I broke my smallest easy out in one of those bolts and spent the better part of an hour drilling the whole mess out.

Drilled the hole a bit bigger then used a common plastic push plug.


I hadn't thought of the plastic push rivets. What size did you use? 6mm plastic rivets, or 4mm like these... http://www.amazon.com/SODIAL-Plastic-Rivets-Fastener-Clips/dp/B00XDPB0OY/
 
I used the one piece type, resembles a thumb tack. You could use either type determine best fit by the hole you drill.
My drill bit walked around the broken easy out and ruined the threaded hole thus forcing me to the plastic plug. If you are careful you may be able to save the hole and get a new bolt. Grease them or they will freeze in place.

With my bolt I busted the bolt head off by trying to remove it with a 10mm socket and ratchet. I was not impressed. Toronto winters I guess.

Support the car safely of course.
 
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Spray well with PB Blaster. Let sit a day. Spray a again and then use a reverse twist bit. May spin out. Drilling them out often messes up the threads.
 
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I would try the PB Blaster as recommended by user52165, but if that did not work I would grind off the remaining pieces with a Dremel.

Then I would use a TIAN (titanium nitride, they look gold color) coated drill bit to drill holes through the cover and into the metal at locations other than the original locations, and then use anchor lube cutting fluid with a high-quality tap to tap the holes. Then I would use stainless screws.

You can buy TIAN drill bits, anchor lube cutting fluid, taps and tap handles at McMaster-Carr. They have an online catalog.
 
Originally Posted By: WillsYoda
Originally Posted By: Trav
That's what I thought. Is there enough of the bolt left to get small vise grips on?


Nope. They are recessed a bit.


As you live where they probably use salt the best chance of getting them out without much trouble is to drill them.

Get a good center punch and some small Left hand drill bits,mark the center of the bolt with a marker and center punch it dead center then drill it with a small 1/8" bit then a 3/16" bit.
At that point you could try a small fluted easy out but the remaining threads wil probably just spin out with the drill.

You can get LH drill bits from Amazon for small money. Getting the center of the bolt punched dead center is critical as is holding the drill straight, use some oil on the bit and use a low speed.
 
I would just run self-tapping screws somewhere somewhat adjacent to the original mounting locations. And decent sized fender washers.
 
OP here. I finished the job successfully, I think.

I used left handed TIAN drill bits, but they just drilled though. It was too rusted in place. Only one of the four bolts actually came out, after using much PB Blaster. So I just drilled hole into the original hole to get clean metal.

I used the Harbor Freight $15 tap and die kit, and put in M6 10mm bolts with fender washers. I used lots of anti-seize, and sprayed the outside with zinc after installing.

The only problem was that after I screwed in the bolt, it didn't snug right. It spun in place a little, so I just stopped after it started to spin.

Despite this, it seems snug and is holding well. It is my first time using a tap and die kit, so maybe I did it wrong. I tried to be careful, and I had watched a few youtube videos on how to do it.

Thanks for all the pointers. I will probably use some of the ideas I got here for other projects as well.
 
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