Originally Posted By: FrankN4
"You, I, and the rest of the bunch will never understand why folks waste money like this-probably because they do not want or cannot understand the reasons for changing oil in the first place."
Lets see.......I learned a little about the reason for changing oil when I got my degree in engineering at Wright State University, in Dayton Ohio. I got my masters at Duke University, Durham, NC, but, I confess, it was not in engineering. I am one trip and my daughter finishing my dissertation from my PhD, but not in engineering.
Since January 1, 2008, I changed oil in the Toyota two times. I used M1 15W-50 and Wix filters. Total cost was $61.48. I changed oil in the Cavalier 3 times. I used M1 15W-50 and Wix filters. Total cost was $96.46. I bought a 2008 Silverado pickup on April 4, 2008. I changed the oil and filter at 500 miles. You know the oil and filter. I changed again at 2000 miles. I will change at 3000-3500 mile intervals. Total cost $68.90. The Silverado now has 4300 miles and is garage kept. I changed the transmission fluid and filter on the Cavalier once this year. I will change the transmission fluid and filter, rear end fluid, air filter, and fuel filter on the Silverado at 5000 miles then probably yearly after than as it will only see about 6000 miles a year, if that.
A years worth of oil and filters has cost me $226.84. That is just shy of half the cost of my Sage fly rod, and I have 7 fly rods. It is considerably less than I gave to The Church last month. I am retired and live on my retirement plan income. I just might be the lowest income person on here!
I started researching UOA on this site back in July. I went back to the beginning of SM, no SL. I have around 200 hours now and I work in new UOA's as they are posted. I consider only Amsoil, Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, Valvoline Syn Power, and Catrol Syntec. I look at only 0W, 5W, and 10w30. I compiled info by engine type such as 60 deg V6, 90 deg V6, V8, inline 4, Boxer 4, aluminum or cast iron, combination, pushrod, single overhead cam, dual overhead cam, cam drive chain or cam drive gears, type of use(sport car, pickup, SUV, family car, business car, etc), mileage on vehicle, geographic location and expected temperature norms. I looked at OCI REALLY SERIOUSLY, 100c cSt REALLY SERIOUSLY, and brand of oil filter used when given. This is an ongoing hobby.
I came up with results and standard deviations on wear metal, especially iron, lead, and copper, and I compiled them according to the above.
I looked at oci of 3000, 4000, 5000,......... with the same brand/grade oils to get a graph of deterioration over miles in use.
I looked at whether the oil stayed in grade over the OCI, sheared, or thickened.
I looked at TBN
I looked at residuals.
I looked to see if oils with moly and boron performed better than oils without them.
The synthetic base stocks are indeed superior to conventional base stocks, BUT, the add packs seem to be the same. The synthetic add packs deplete just like the conventional add packs. The synthetics stay in grade better than the conventionals. That is the most important to me. The synthetics have better VI's. The synthetics have better heat endurance(look at UOA's of turbo engines with syn and conv...look at the UOA of a twin DOHC 24V V6) Some say why use a synthetic for short OCI, why not use a conventional? The synthetics have the same superior qualities at short OCI.
I donate my used oils to a place that has special use for them. They don't get burned, they don't go into the ground or water, they don't pollute. They become grease and rp preservatives.
I use what I consider to be the best available oil with the best application. I have used the same brand and grade for 19 years, next month. If I come to the conclusion that there is a better brand, grade, and type, I will change to it tomorrow.
"Yes, the person is wasting their money, but its a free country, and how many of us waste our money on other stuff - junk food, big TV'as we don't need, etc...etc... everyone defends the freedom of choice in America as a great thing, and this is just another aspect of it".
I really appreciate good Kentucky Straight Bourbon, and I go through about 3 liters a year. At $80.00 a liter, that is one of those freedom of choice wastes and more than the total of oil changes on 3 vehicles.
Awsome post!
I used to "waste" Mobil 1 synthetic back a few years. Then I noticed the factory reccomended 5000 mile oil changes. Only then,did I start running it out to 5000 miles. In the end,if oil was the biggest thing I waste money on, I wont be worryin anytime soon
