I'm looking for some recommendations from the group for a "slick" oil. By slick I mean an oil that is better than others at lowering friction in the engine. The oil will be used in a '06 Miata 4 cyl. with auto trans and a '07 Focus 4 cyl. with auto trans. Both cars call for 5w-20. I don't want to use an additive like MOS2 as the Miata will sit for weeks during the winter and an additive may fall out of suspension and sit in the pan. I would like to stay away from any of the boutique oils and just go to the local parts store or Wally World to pick it up. I know all oils are slick but maybe there is one or two that are somewhat better at lowering friction. Looking forward to your recommendations.
Slickest oil?
- Thread starter Mar57
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Choose and oil with high Moly content in it instead of adding Moly.
Toyota 0w20 comes to mind. You could also use Idemitsu.
Not sure you can really measure an oil's slipperiness though.
Toyota 0w20 comes to mind. You could also use Idemitsu.
Not sure you can really measure an oil's slipperiness though.
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OK, maybe I didn't phrase my question correctly ... what would be your recommendation(s) for an oil that reduces engine friction better than other oils?
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Originally Posted by Mar57
OK, maybe I didn't phrase my question correctly ... what would be your recommendation(s) for an oil that reduces engine friction better than other oils?
Without some real-world testing in your engine, we'll have to speculate based on motor oil advertising - - many oils claim to reduce friction and increase mpg.
Originally Posted by PimTac
This ought to be a interesting thread.
Agreed.
OK, maybe I didn't phrase my question correctly ... what would be your recommendation(s) for an oil that reduces engine friction better than other oils?
Without some real-world testing in your engine, we'll have to speculate based on motor oil advertising - - many oils claim to reduce friction and increase mpg.
Originally Posted by PimTac
This ought to be a interesting thread.
Agreed.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
The lower viscosity oils typically show less friction. Below is a recent thread where a Shell study on friction is discussed.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...gine-friction-and-durability#Post4860353
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...gine-friction-and-durability#Post4860353
Originally Posted by PimTac
Pick any major brand of 5w20 and go. You nor your engine will be able to tell the difference.
^^^^^^^^
I agree 100 percent.
Slickest... I was thinking of you trying spreading some out on a wooden floor with a mop then trying run across it while bare foot and doing that while turning a corner.... Clean that one oil up thoroughly ... Then trying another brand and running across the floor again bare foot around the corner... And then let us know know what one was the slickest
Pick any major brand of 5w20 and go. You nor your engine will be able to tell the difference.
^^^^^^^^
I agree 100 percent.
Slickest... I was thinking of you trying spreading some out on a wooden floor with a mop then trying run across it while bare foot and doing that while turning a corner.... Clean that one oil up thoroughly ... Then trying another brand and running across the floor again bare foot around the corner... And then let us know know what one was the slickest
Nobody said Slick-50 yet?
OK, so minimizing friction comes in two basic forms. Keeping metal parts from rubbing against each other, and minimizing the internal friction within the oil (shear). They can be opposing goals which is one reason BITOG exists. To argue this to death
You want an oil that will keep most parts in hydrodynamic lubrication. That is completely separated by an oil film. But not an oil film that is so thick that its own internal film strength and viscosity will create additional drag on the rotating bits.
And all this is controlled, to some degree, by how hot the engines run (sump temp mostly, as an indicator) and how fast you spin the engine... Oils that are very happy in a lump of V8 at
Some of the most durable oils at high RPM are the boutique oils like Red Line. And there are many sports car folks here on BITOG that routinely run Red Line out to 7,500 miles with AutoCross weekends and such. So you need to do a spreadsheet and look at overall cost over the life of an oil change?
But if you are not driving aggressive and never hit red-line on the tach, you do not need one of those oils. Any of the Majors (Mobil, Chevron, Shell, Castrol, Total, Elf, etc.) will make a top notch oil for daily driven cars. TGMO is a good oil for some applications and it might be fine for you... You need to look at your owners manual specs and alternatives they allow; and consider Dexos1, Gen 2 and maybe the Porsche A40 list as thoroughly tested oils and go from there
You want an oil that will keep most parts in hydrodynamic lubrication. That is completely separated by an oil film. But not an oil film that is so thick that its own internal film strength and viscosity will create additional drag on the rotating bits.
And all this is controlled, to some degree, by how hot the engines run (sump temp mostly, as an indicator) and how fast you spin the engine... Oils that are very happy in a lump of V8 at
Some of the most durable oils at high RPM are the boutique oils like Red Line. And there are many sports car folks here on BITOG that routinely run Red Line out to 7,500 miles with AutoCross weekends and such. So you need to do a spreadsheet and look at overall cost over the life of an oil change?
But if you are not driving aggressive and never hit red-line on the tach, you do not need one of those oils. Any of the Majors (Mobil, Chevron, Shell, Castrol, Total, Elf, etc.) will make a top notch oil for daily driven cars. TGMO is a good oil for some applications and it might be fine for you... You need to look at your owners manual specs and alternatives they allow; and consider Dexos1, Gen 2 and maybe the Porsche A40 list as thoroughly tested oils and go from there
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Use a 0w-20 instead of a 5w-20. The primary purpose of oil is to distribute internal engine heat and prevent metal to metal contact, and you want one that will do so with the lowest power loss. he 0w-20 might make a very slight difference.
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Originally Posted by BrocLuno
OK, so minimizing friction comes in two basic forms. Keeping metal parts from rubbing against each other, and minimizing the internal friction within the oil (shear). They can be opposing goals which is one reason BITOG exists. To argue this to death
You want an oil that will keep most parts in hydrodynamic lubrication. That is completely separated by an oil film. But not an oil film that is so thick that its own internal film strength and viscosity will create additional drag on the rotating bits.
And all this is controlled, to some degree, by how hot the engines run (sump temp mostly, as an indicator) and how fast you spin the engine... Oils that are very happy in a lump of V8 at
Some of the most durable oils at high RPM are the boutique oils like Red Line. And there are many sports car folks here on BITOG that routinely run Red Line out to 7,500 miles with AutoCross weekends and such. So you need to do a spreadsheet and look at overall cost over the life of an oil change?
But if you are not driving aggressive and never hit red-line on the tach, you do not need one of those oils. Any of the Majors (Mobil, Chevron, Shell, Castrol, Total, Elf, etc.) will make a top notch oil for daily driven cars. TGMO is a good oil for some applications and it might be fine for you... You need to look at your owners manual specs and alternatives they allow; and consider Dexos1, Gen 2 and maybe the Porsche A40 list as thoroughly tested oils and go from there
^^^^^^^^
Really, really good post here.
OK, so minimizing friction comes in two basic forms. Keeping metal parts from rubbing against each other, and minimizing the internal friction within the oil (shear). They can be opposing goals which is one reason BITOG exists. To argue this to death
You want an oil that will keep most parts in hydrodynamic lubrication. That is completely separated by an oil film. But not an oil film that is so thick that its own internal film strength and viscosity will create additional drag on the rotating bits.
And all this is controlled, to some degree, by how hot the engines run (sump temp mostly, as an indicator) and how fast you spin the engine... Oils that are very happy in a lump of V8 at
Some of the most durable oils at high RPM are the boutique oils like Red Line. And there are many sports car folks here on BITOG that routinely run Red Line out to 7,500 miles with AutoCross weekends and such. So you need to do a spreadsheet and look at overall cost over the life of an oil change?
But if you are not driving aggressive and never hit red-line on the tach, you do not need one of those oils. Any of the Majors (Mobil, Chevron, Shell, Castrol, Total, Elf, etc.) will make a top notch oil for daily driven cars. TGMO is a good oil for some applications and it might be fine for you... You need to look at your owners manual specs and alternatives they allow; and consider Dexos1, Gen 2 and maybe the Porsche A40 list as thoroughly tested oils and go from there
^^^^^^^^
Really, really good post here.
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