simple answers for a new truck, please

[dustyjoe1]

You said simple, so here it is:
5w30:
1. Motorcraft (Conoco)
2. Pennzoil (5w30 is really excellent )
3. Havoline (5w30 is good,10w30 better here)

CHANGE THE FIRST OIL AT 3K. 5K AFTER THAT

CHANGE THE FILTER EVERY TIME! My old toy used to get AC filters (traded at 200k, ran fine). I think any quality filter will work fine though. i like wix, Bosch, ST or Factory filter.

For what its worth, Synthetic will also work well, but your toy will see 300k plus with MC or pennzoil dino. I tried both in my old 87 and didn't see much of a difference in seat of the pants running. Your choice.

Hope this helps.

r.

 

[Amkeer]

Congratulations!

I would change that oil now and go ahead and put Mobil 1 5w30 in there. This first batch of synth should be changed a little early, around 4500-5000 miles or 4 months. I would then continue with 6 month, 6000 mile changes with Mobil 1. Stick with that schedule regardless and you will be fine!

As far as the filter Wix.

Make sure all grease fittings (zerks) are lubed properly every change.

Oh by the way, if you have someone like a quicky lube change the oil and you give them the product to use like Mobil 1 make sure you physically watch them pour it in the crankcase otherwise you may end up with something different!

Daily Drives:
-2003 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner XtraCab, 2.7 Liter , Mobil1 Synthetic SS 5W-30.
ODO 10250Miles.
-1995 Toyota 4-Runner 3.0 V6, Mobil1 Synthetic SS 10W-30.
ODO 91900 Miles.
http://community.webshots.com/user/amkeer

[ August 27, 2004, 07:51 AM: Message edited by: Amkeer ]

 

[synergy_58]

Thanks everyone for all the input! And thanks for the warm welcome!

I had to read the replys twice to soak it all in. It seems that the consensus is that the synthetic (Mobil 1 or German Castrol-???) is the better choice with the OEM filter, at least that's what I'm hearing. And, the 5000 mile interval seems to be the average safe mile. That sound reasonable to me, I can keep up with that.

I will also remember to do the other important things, air, fuel, pvc, filters and other fluids. I'm hearing synthetic in other sumps as well.

By the way, my dad uses Royal Purple and/or castrol synthetic, but he's not familiar with German Castrol. He use's AC filters. He isn't here to help me change the oil, but he has shown me how to do it and I have done it before.

I have one more question that I hope you'll help me with. The oil filter location on this Tacoma is in a very tight spot. In fact, I don't think I can do it in it's present location. It has been suggested to me to install an "oil filter relocation kit" by Performance Products. This would place the filter in a location that would make it easy even for me to do.

My dad is concerned about the oil pressure and the fact that it will add one more quart to the sump. What do you guys think about this kit? It cost $58.95 plus shipping and I know a mechanic that can install it for me.

Thanks again guys!!! Looking forward to your responses.

Judy

 

[lobo11]

Try the frist change with current oil filter location, if it is too much of a pain $60 doesn't sound too bad, especially if the mechanic you know is helping you out and doing it for free. If the new filter location and the added ease allows you to easily change your own oil and filter, you will quickly make up the money you would spend getting a lube, oil and filter from the garage. Under warranty I took my vehicles in and paid $21 every 3-4K miles, now I spend $5-7 an oil change doing it myself, the money you save in a year doing your own should pay for the remote filter location.

 

[Amkeer]

Stick with 6000 miles! The oem filter is overpriced go with Wix....

If you add remote filter check with Toyota to see how this may effect warranty.

 

[Grossomotto]

The oil filter on the Tacomas is a pain to change. You can access it through a very small space near the wheel well. The BEST way to change it yourself is to place a ziplock bag over the filter when you start to spin it off. Once it's off, just zip the bag. It'll save a pint of hot oil running down your arm!

I've used Mobil 1, Pure One and ACDelco filters. I'd only suggest Mobil 1 if you're doing 5K-10K changes since they're about $10.

 

[Bruce T]

Oops, I should have said GC would be a good choice for both gentle and hard driving.

 

[jsharp]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Bruce T:
Oops, I should have said GC would be a good choice for both gentle and hard driving.

---

I'm using GC now in a similar engine but I've not seen it have any advantage over M1 5W-30 from the UOA's I've done...

 

[Scooby]

I have a 2004 Tacoma 4wd double Cab. I changed the oil at 2k with dino, and again day before yesterday with dino at 5500 miles. Used Pennzoil 5W-30. Once I hit somewhere in the neighborhood of 10k I will change to Mobil 1. I will either use 5W or 10W-30. If they ever start carrying the new M1 T&SUV here I am gonna try that for one interval and have it analyzed.

I sold my 2002 Tacoma V6 4wd TRD ext cab with 45k in April. I used dino until 10k then used M1 5W-30 changed every 5k. If you search the used oil analysis forum I have some UOA results posted there.

As for the filter, I use WIX 51516. This is a slightly oversized filter that is for a FOrd Taurus 3.0 V6. The threads, gasket size and bypass PSI is identical to the spec for the Tacoma filter, but nearly 1.5 inches longer.

When changing the oil you will see that the Toyota engineers didn't think about access to the filter very well. You can change the filter from the wheel well by turning the wheels all the way to the left and taking off the rubber inner fender flap off. But doing this you will break or wear those plastic clips off. I just get underneath and take the skids off. I can do the oil change in about 15 minutes start to finish and taking my time.

go to www.tacomaterritory.com for some pretty good information.

 

[jsharp]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Scooby:

When changing the oil you will see that the Toyota engineers didn't think about access to the filter very well. You can change the filter from the wheel well by turning the wheels all the way to the left and taking off the rubber inner fender flap off. But doing this you will break or wear those plastic clips off. I just get underneath and take the skids off. I can do the oil change in about 15 minutes start to finish and taking my time.

go to www.tacomaterritory.com for some pretty good information.

---

I'd much rather pull the skids than break the plastic clips messing with the inner fender flap. With an air ratchet you can have them off in about 2 minutes.

If the Taco is like the 4Runner the trick is to leave the 2 skid plates connected and pull them as a unit. Toyota even thoughtfully provided a hook on the frame in the front to hang the front skid on while you get the bolts started in the back...

 

[Bruce T]

synergy_58, it's nice to have a woman on the forum. Congratulations on being one of the rare women who realizes maintenance is important. You like to drive a lot, which is very American. Don't ignore you Dad's advice, but do what you think is best. No offense to your Dad, but you will find more accurate, current information on BITOG.

Toyota OEM filters are high quality. I'd let the dealer do your oil/filter changes. If they mess up (such as a missing drain plug or poorly sealed filter), they're more easy to hold liable than typical fast lube places. If you change your own oil/filter, ALWAYS keep the receipts and a log as proof for warranty problems or resale. I'm with your Dad and lobo11 on the risks of the filter relocation kit, especially if installing it invalidates the manufacturer's warranty.

Stick with the oil weight recommended in your owner's manual, although a 5W30 isn't required in Pensacola. If you choose a dino oil, 10W30 is better for your hot climate. Don't use 40 weight oil in this particular engine. Yes, change your oil now. For a dino oil, consider Castrol GTX. Motorcraft also has tested well, but I haven't tried it in my car. Chevron/Havoline didn't run smoothly in my '97 Camry V-6. I'm not as impressed by Pennzoil in UOAs.

For synthetic oils, Mobil 1 (M1) and German Castrol (GC) are good choices for gentle drivers, especially GC - if you can find it. Search this website to learn how to distinguish GC from American Castrol. If you drive harder, consider Red Line (RL), even though it's pricey stuff. Yes, 3K for dino and 5K for synthetic are safe intervals without UOAs.

Regardless of which oil you choose, use a good engine additive like Lube Control or ARX to help keep your engine clean inside. Consider a good fuel additive like Fuel Power or Red Line SI-1 for your fuel injectors.

[ August 27, 2004, 01:47 PM: Message edited by: Bruce T ]

 

[Amkeer]

I will be jumping under there this A.M. to unbolt that skid and change the oil today. This will be the 4th interval on the Taco!