Should I extend my oil change intervals?
- Thread starter Emanuel
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: zfasts03
Are these the cars that the odometer stops at 300,000 miles?
My odometer is in kilometer so at 620k ish miles it will start counting from zero again. I doubt it will get that mileage in the next 20 years
Are these the cars that the odometer stops at 300,000 miles?
My odometer is in kilometer so at 620k ish miles it will start counting from zero again. I doubt it will get that mileage in the next 20 years
Originally Posted By: Emanuel
Originally Posted By: StevieC
You could also have someone pull the bottom end apart and put in revised rings/pistons that don't burn oil. The oil savings alone over the next 200,000 miles you want will be worth it.
This can be done without removing the engine from the vehicle if it's done on a vehicle hoist.
That is true, but I wouldnt open the engine a 2nd time without boring the cylinders in a machine shop.
What OCI interval would you use if you treated this car like you loved it?
You can hone the cylinder on the vehicle from the bottom end. I have done it with my dad (mechanic) with a tool that goes onto a drill. It works in situations like this and the new rings wear into place and start to seal properly thereafter.
As for the OCI if I loved the car, I would still do the same. Really. The oil is really changing itself through it being burnt off so changing the filter is the only thing necessary.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
You could also have someone pull the bottom end apart and put in revised rings/pistons that don't burn oil. The oil savings alone over the next 200,000 miles you want will be worth it.
This can be done without removing the engine from the vehicle if it's done on a vehicle hoist.
That is true, but I wouldnt open the engine a 2nd time without boring the cylinders in a machine shop.
What OCI interval would you use if you treated this car like you loved it?
You can hone the cylinder on the vehicle from the bottom end. I have done it with my dad (mechanic) with a tool that goes onto a drill. It works in situations like this and the new rings wear into place and start to seal properly thereafter.
As for the OCI if I loved the car, I would still do the same. Really. The oil is really changing itself through it being burnt off so changing the filter is the only thing necessary.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
You can hone the cylinder on the vehicle from the bottom end. I have done it with my dad (mechanic) with a tool that goes onto a drill. It works in situations like this and the new rings wear into place and start to seal properly thereafter.
That is a great idea!
Originally Posted By: StevieC
As for the OCI if I loved the car, I would still do the same. Really. The oil is really changing itself through it being burnt off so changing the filter is the only thing necessary.
I think you are right I have read in this forum a guy with the same engine and the same consumption that did an UOA in a 15k miles interval with 15 qts of makeup oil and everything looked normal. Just a 21 ppm iron that is acceptable for the length of the OCI and he had coolant ingestion. 15k mile OCI article
The only difference between that guy and me is the fuel and the oil, but he was using a 59 cents per quart oil so it wasn't a special oil neither.
I might just change the filter every 3k miles, add the oil to fill the new filter and change the oil every 6k miles.
You can hone the cylinder on the vehicle from the bottom end. I have done it with my dad (mechanic) with a tool that goes onto a drill. It works in situations like this and the new rings wear into place and start to seal properly thereafter.
That is a great idea!
Originally Posted By: StevieC
As for the OCI if I loved the car, I would still do the same. Really. The oil is really changing itself through it being burnt off so changing the filter is the only thing necessary.
I think you are right I have read in this forum a guy with the same engine and the same consumption that did an UOA in a 15k miles interval with 15 qts of makeup oil and everything looked normal. Just a 21 ppm iron that is acceptable for the length of the OCI and he had coolant ingestion. 15k mile OCI article
The only difference between that guy and me is the fuel and the oil, but he was using a 59 cents per quart oil so it wasn't a special oil neither.
I might just change the filter every 3k miles, add the oil to fill the new filter and change the oil every 6k miles.
Sounds like a good plan
Its the known oil return hole issue common on those year corollas. Thats likely causing the consumption.
Originally Posted By: Emanuel
Originally Posted By: danez_yoda
How does the oil look on the dipstick at 3k with that much fresh oil added?
It doesn[t looks black, but it does look dark brown, but I have learned in this forum that dark oil can have more usable life in it, the only way to know is with an UOA, but I cant do one, it is so expensive down here.
UOA isn't the only way.
You can do Blotter Spot Test, it's free and easy.
It's qualitative though.
Originally Posted By: danez_yoda
How does the oil look on the dipstick at 3k with that much fresh oil added?
It doesn[t looks black, but it does look dark brown, but I have learned in this forum that dark oil can have more usable life in it, the only way to know is with an UOA, but I cant do one, it is so expensive down here.
UOA isn't the only way.
You can do Blotter Spot Test, it's free and easy.
It's qualitative though.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Rolla07
Its the known oil return hole issue common on those year corollas. Thats likely causing the consumption.
7AFE engine not 1ZZFE but the 7afe also had problems with the oil return holes
Its the known oil return hole issue common on those year corollas. Thats likely causing the consumption.
7AFE engine not 1ZZFE but the 7afe also had problems with the oil return holes
Originally Posted By: zeng
Originally Posted By: Emanuel
Originally Posted By: danez_yoda
How does the oil look on the dipstick at 3k with that much fresh oil added?
It doesn[t looks black, but it does look dark brown, but I have learned in this forum that dark oil can have more usable life in it, the only way to know is with an UOA, but I cant do one, it is so expensive down here.
UOA isn't the only way.
You can do Blotter Spot Test, it's free and easy.
It's qualitative though.
Cool, I am going to educate myself on this topic
Originally Posted By: Emanuel
Originally Posted By: danez_yoda
How does the oil look on the dipstick at 3k with that much fresh oil added?
It doesn[t looks black, but it does look dark brown, but I have learned in this forum that dark oil can have more usable life in it, the only way to know is with an UOA, but I cant do one, it is so expensive down here.
UOA isn't the only way.
You can do Blotter Spot Test, it's free and easy.
It's qualitative though.
Cool, I am going to educate myself on this topic
Originally Posted By: Emanuel
Originally Posted By: Rolla07
Its the known oil return hole issue common on those year corollas. Thats likely causing the consumption.
7AFE engine not 1ZZFE but the 7afe also had problems with the oil return holes
Emanuel, did you even read my reply about my sons 96 Corolla with the same engine?
Originally Posted By: Rolla07
Its the known oil return hole issue common on those year corollas. Thats likely causing the consumption.
7AFE engine not 1ZZFE but the 7afe also had problems with the oil return holes
Emanuel, did you even read my reply about my sons 96 Corolla with the same engine?
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: Emanuel
Originally Posted By: Rolla07
Its the known oil return hole issue common on those year corollas. Thats likely causing the consumption.
7AFE engine not 1ZZFE but the 7afe also had problems with the oil return holes
Emanuel, did you even read my reply about my sons 96 Corolla with the same engine?
I did read it, but my engine was overhauled like your son's corolla 35k miles ago, and all of the head gasket and seals were changed again 12k miles ago.
Originally Posted By: Emanuel
Originally Posted By: Rolla07
Its the known oil return hole issue common on those year corollas. Thats likely causing the consumption.
7AFE engine not 1ZZFE but the 7afe also had problems with the oil return holes
Emanuel, did you even read my reply about my sons 96 Corolla with the same engine?
I did read it, but my engine was overhauled like your son's corolla 35k miles ago, and all of the head gasket and seals were changed again 12k miles ago.
Isn't gas and oil insanely cheap where u live?
Originally Posted By: jj51702
Isn't gas and oil insanely cheap where u live?
Gas is insanely cheap but engine oil price has risen a 2700% in just 7 months, we are facing hyperinflation
Isn't gas and oil insanely cheap where u live?
Gas is insanely cheap but engine oil price has risen a 2700% in just 7 months, we are facing hyperinflation
I just realized that my calculations of oil consumption were wrong, the engine is consuming 0.75 QTS of oil every 1k miles. That makes me so happy because it means that oil consumption hasn't increased for switching from 20w50 to 15w40.
I'm gonna keep doing 3k OCI because to replace the entire oil capacity topping of oil I would have to drive 5k miles and I don't feel confident of using that OCI considering my conditions and the lack of an UOA.
I might try a 5w40 Synthetic oil to see if the engine likes it in the near future, I can find this synthetic at the same price of the 20w50 I used to buy if I buy them with discount. 5w40 is a viscosity that is difficult to sell for the stores because people is used to thick oils. I would really like to have a oil with an lower starting viscosity for when I do short tripping and better oxidation resistance.
I'm gonna keep doing 3k OCI because to replace the entire oil capacity topping of oil I would have to drive 5k miles and I don't feel confident of using that OCI considering my conditions and the lack of an UOA.
I might try a 5w40 Synthetic oil to see if the engine likes it in the near future, I can find this synthetic at the same price of the 20w50 I used to buy if I buy them with discount. 5w40 is a viscosity that is difficult to sell for the stores because people is used to thick oils. I would really like to have a oil with an lower starting viscosity for when I do short tripping and better oxidation resistance.
All good. Good plan
A move to lighter oil is a good idea, it will be interesting to see if the oil consumption stays the same.
With the rate you are adding fresh oil, you could just stop draining the pan and only change the filter once every 5,000 miles.
With the rate you are adding fresh oil, you could just stop draining the pan and only change the filter once every 5,000 miles.
My son bought a 2.5 gallon container of Valvoline 15W40 at AUTOZONE during the summer for $9.99! After all of the work that was done to the engine the engine barely burns 3/4 qt. about every 2K miles! But, he still changes the oil EVERY 3K miles, and that's with 260K original miles! And, his gas mileage is back up in the 30's on the highways.
- Status
Similar threads
- Question
