Short OCI; first "break-in" filter change; Toyota 3.5L 2GR-FKS with OEM factory filter

[dnewton3]

This filter is from my 2023 ES350. OCI with filter change at 1k miles; to get the "break-in" materials out.

As you can see from the photo, the filter caught a lot of machining remnants. About every third pleat had some sort of metallic debris in the fold; some large, some small. One interesting piece was the very long "sliver" of metal laying deep in the fold (third photo).

Overall, the filter itself was well made and typically good quality. The filter could have easily gone the "rated" 10k miles because despite the metallic debris, as the media itself was nowhere near being fully loaded up.

On new engines, I typically O/FCI at 1k, 5k and 10k miles just to flush out the remnants.

 

[demarpaint]

You have to be careful saying doing an early OCI in a new car around here. All kidding aside I'm a big fan of getting the factory fill out early. I'm pretty sure there are smaller particles that the filter doesn't trap, and over time can cause some wear or even possibly damage. The only way to resolve that consern is to get the oil out. Flame suit on.

 

[dnewton3]

You have to be careful saying doing an early OCI in a new car around here. All kidding aside I'm a big fan of getting the factory fill out early. I'm pretty sure there are smaller particles that the filter doesn't trap, and over time can cause some wear or even possibly damage. The only way to resolve that consern is to get the oil out. Flame suit on.

I would agree. Given that Toyota filters are reasonably well made, but not known for high efficiency ... I think there's certainly stuff in the sump that didn't get caught by the filter. Hence my first few OFCIs are short; flush the stuff out.

The replacement filter is a Fram CH9972; the cartridge version of the "EG". Only will be in there for 4k miles and probably will be more efficient than the Toyota filter.

 

[demarpaint]

I would agree. Given that Toyota filters are reasonably well made, but not known for high efficiency ... I think there's certainly stuff in the sump that didn't get caught by the filter. Hence my first few OFCIs are short; flush the stuff out.

The replacement filter is a Fram CH9972; the cartridge version of the "EG". Only will be in there for 4k miles and probably will be more efficient than the Toyota filter.

I agree 100%.

 

[BornSlippy]

This filter is from my 2023 ES350. OCI with filter change at 1k miles; to get the "break-in" materials out.

As you can see from the photo, the filter caught a lot of machining remnants. About every third pleat had some sort of metallic debris in the fold; some large, some small. One interesting piece was the very long "sliver" of metal laying deep in the fold (third photo).

Overall, the filter itself was well made and typically good quality. The filter could have easily gone the "rated" 10k miles because despite the metallic debris, as the media itself was nowhere near being fully loaded up.

On new engines, I typically O/FCI at 1k, 5k and 10k miles just to flush out the remnants.

Your engine in that car is a 2GR-FKS.

 

[nomas]

I've never changed the factory fill at less than 3k miles . I wouldn't flame somebody that did though . Your vehicle , your money .

 

[Luftmasse]

2023? Should be 2GR-FKS.

 

[Luftmasse]

I've never changed the factory fill at less than 3k miles . I wouldn't flame somebody that did though . Your vehicle , your money .

I change mines at 3000 miles.

 

[wwillson]

My 2018 Duramax filter at the first oil change. Lots of machining debris

[cut open] AC Delco PF2232 3500 miles 2018 Duramax - 1st OC

All, Below are pictures of the AC Delco PF2232 removed from my 2018 Chevy Duramax with 3,500 miles on the odometer. This was the first oil change. I also removed the filter media so that I could look for metal, I was surprised at how much is in the filter. Whoever over tightens the oil filter...

bobistheoilguy.com

 

[JavierH19]

Not bad. But post some pics of her.

 

[fantastic]

First off Congratulations on the new Lexus. Just did a quick Bing.. Sweet looking machine! Maybe an electric, for you, is in the next decade?

If you can see debris in that short bit of mileage it's a great idea to dump it & start fresh again. Who wants fingernail/hairline metal chunks floating around in their engine...Anyone? LOL

The filter did look great though, otherwise, & gives a glimpse of what may be a decent looking filter after several thousands of miles. Do you plan to stick with the OEM filter or ?? Thanks for Sharing this 1k filter & enjoy that car!

 

[el Nuke]

So we’re now back to ignoring what the owner’s manual says when it comes to preventative maintenance schedules?

We just now got everyone on board to start consulting their owner’s manuals first for when/what to do with PM, and now we have to start selling “follow OM, except for when you don’t want to” to them?

I fear some folks will become confused with how arbitrary these asterisks are and just do their own thing out of desperation. But if it’s good enough for us, blah blah blah…

 

[ZeeOSix]

Who wants fingernail/hairline metal chunks floating around in their engine...Anyone? LOL

Debris that size never gets by the oil filter, even a filter that's not very efficient. Those are relatively large sized debris.

 

[ZeeOSix]

So we’re now back to ignoring what the owner’s manual says ...

"Back to"? ... we never left in order to go back to, lol.

 

[fantastic]

Debris that size never gets by the oil filter, even a filter that's not very efficient. Those are relatively large sized debris.

Impossible through bypass?

 

[ZeeOSix]

Impossible through bypass?

It possibly could through the bypass valve, but all those particles are located down deep in the pleats. The engine would have to be revved up really high way before the oil warmed up to put a new oil filter into bypass.

 

[fantastic]

Debris that size never gets by the oil filter, even a filter that's not very efficient. Those are relatively large sized debris.

It possibly could through the bypass valve, but all those particles are located down deep in the pleats. The engine would have to be revved up really high way before the oil warmed up to put a new oil filter into bypass.

I'm in the camp that wear debris is possible to go through the bypass & there are many folks that don't want to gamble on break-in wear circulating through the engine during a bypass event or events. Whether it's low chance doesn't change the fact that many like to err on the side of caution. It can also give a person the time to check out their filter to see if there is any unusual wear on a new or rebuild engine. There are many, including myself, that would not want a long run on an initial break-in period when wear metal are quite high & bypass events possible.

 

[ZeeOSix]

I'm in the camp that wear debris is possible to go through the bypass & there are many folks that don't want to gamble on break-in wear circulating through the engine during a bypass event or events. Whether it's low chance doesn't change the fact that many like to err on the side of caution. It can also give a person the time to check out their filter to see if there is any unusual wear on a new or rebuild engine. There are many, including myself, that would not want a long run on an initial break-in period when wear metal are quite high & bypass events possible.

Yes, I do early first oil changes too. I'm not that worried about debris getting by the filter through the bypass valve because I never drive like a maniac until the oil is fully warmed up, which cuts down the chances of the filter bypass valve opening. And as mentioned before, debris naturally collects in the deep valleys of the pleats which makes it very unlikely for debris that far down in the pleats to move out and through the bypass valve. Keep in mind that oil is still flowing and holding trapped debris against the filter media even when the bypass valve opens and lets a small fraction of the flow bypass the media.

 

[dnewton3]

So we’re now back to ignoring what the owner’s manual says when it comes to preventative maintenance schedules?

We just now got everyone on board to start consulting their owner’s manuals first for when/what to do with PM, and now we have to start selling “follow OM, except for when you don’t want to” to them?

I fear some folks will become confused with how arbitrary these asterisks are and just do their own thing out of desperation. But if it’s good enough for us, blah blah blah…

I'm not sure I follow your train of thought here ...

Admittedly I did an O/FCI very early. The break-in debris (as seen in the filter) is accompanied by smaller metal particles that do pass through the filter; this is proven by thousands of UOAs which have high Fe, Al, Cu counts in the initial break-in miles of engines. I like to both flush and filter that stuff out early; I do an O/FCI at 1k miles, 5k miles and 10k miles. After that, it's 10k miles (which is the OEM prescribed maintenance cycle) for this vehicle.

I'm not doing this "out of desperation". It's a good idea to get the machining remnants out as soon as practical. Especially given that Toyota filters aren't known for high efficiency, though they are fairly well constructed.

Everyone is able to do as they see fit; this is what I choose to do. I believe data (UOAs and filter inspections) supports this to be a reasonable and pragmatic approach.

 

[wwillson]

We just now got everyone on board to start consulting their owner’s manuals first for when/what to do with PM, and now we have to start selling “follow OM, except for when you don’t want to” to them?

We did? Who is everyone? Have you seen my OCIs?

I fear some folks will become confused with how arbitrary these asterisks are and just do their own thing out of desperation.

Because they are desperately confused? I doubt anyone here is confused at their choices for OCIs. Some may be confused about my choices, but I'm not.