Shock Nut Socket - How Hard To Make One?

[BHopkins]

May I humbly suggest zapping the nuts with an impact?

This would be my approach, too, but he seems concerned with torque. It doesn't always work, either -- sometimes the rod just spins on the old or new or both

Since changing shocks on my E350 involves pulling a bunch of trunk trim, I found a pretty decent Youtube video for this model car. He does exactly what you are suggesting. But I'm a little OCD about following torque specs, and, as you say, @RooflessVW, I'm not crazy about using the wrong tool for the job.

I mean I like to torque my stuff too, probably more than most.

But I feel like this is a thread about how to use the wrong tool for the job due to impatience and/or poor planning.

So you may as well use the easiest wrong tool and hold the strut shaft with some soft jaw pliers and zip the nut down.

From what I understand, the cutaway socket, combined with an Allen wrench, is the correct tool for this job. I believe this is how it is done per MB - with this style of cut out socket. The difference is, I'm considering fabricating my own, rather than waiting to get the German manufactured Schwaben tool, to come from ECS or Pelican, which are the two sources I was able to find online.

Curious, you haven't seen this cutaway socket method called out in VW shop work instructions? On the ECS website, their "Fit This Car" page shows that the 17 mm cutaway socket is intended for the VW Golf, Jetta, New Beetle, and Audi TT.

On AZ's website I can find a 1/2" and 1/4" beam TW. Of course I think 3/8 would be ideal for your desired 21 ft lbs. Still, poke around AZ and O'Reilly. I also thought my HD used to have a beam on the floor but I didn't have much luck on their website

https://www.autozone.com/wrenches-pliers-and-cutters/torque-wrench/p/oemtools-1-2in-drive-torque-wrench/914019_0_0?searchText=79-140

Also, are digital adapters good for either direction? I honestly don't know. But the 3/8" at HF is $40

Digital adapters are good for either direction. I had one of the little HF adapters years ago. But when I tested it against a few other torque wrenches, including one where I worked, which had a valid calibration, it didn't agree. So it went back to HF. I've never picked up a new one. Perhaps this is the opportunity to give one another chance.

 

[paulo57509]

There was a time when I used this and a flare nut crow foot attached to a torque wrench. Now it's whatever will hold the rod.

Twenty-one foot-pounds? I'd just reef on it a bit with a box wrench.

 

[BHopkins]

After considering the advice of others, I decided to tighten the nuts by setting my Milwaukee 1/2" impact to it's lowest setting, clamping on the piston rod with a rubber faced clamp, and hammering on the nut for a bit.

A crows foot would not have worked, as the nut is recessed inside the rubber damper assembly, that mounts to the body.

The job is done, and the new shocks are pretty firm. Thanks for the help, guys. I sincerely appreciate the help from my fellow BITOG members.

 

[andyd]

When I replaced front struts on my 528e, I used a 1/2 drive 19mm socket, clamped in a pair of Vise-Grips for the nut and a 8mm Allen wrench reached the hex on the top of the strut. Awkward, but it worked with tools on hand

 

[buck91]

I usually use my racthet wrenches for these type of needs....

Nvm, read your specifics of this application.