Shell Rotella HDEO 15W-40 as Engine Oil Flush?

[giantsforever]

I'm a newbie to this forum.

I have a Volvo 242 and Toyota Tercel each with about 140k miles. Both were poorly maintained by the prior owners, but I have them in working order. For example, I switched the oil over to synthetic and use OEM oil filters. Almost everything seems fine.

However, I see varnish in the inside of the valve cover on the camshaft. Also, the Volvo was in storage for 4 years in my garage, ie not driven. I changed the oil, because it was black.

Is there any value in doing an engine oil flush with Shell Rotella HDEO 15w40 oil the next time I do oil changes with either car?

Thanks

 

[JHZR2]

Especially if you have them on synthetic, I'd say no. In the past there was opinion that the greater level,of detergents and dispersants in hdeo could help clean. Anymore it's not so sure a case.

Solvent cleaning would possibly help. Not sure you want to go there as varnish won't really hurt much. Some people have run mmo, Kreen, etc to help clean if they're concerned.

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

There are no engine oils which are really suited for what you are asking. Sure, you could use Rotella as the oil, but to do what you're asking you're going to need some kind of solvent-based flush. One of the most highly regarded on this board is Kreen from Kano Labs... but I don't think you can get it shipped to Kalifornia.

Normal oils (even HDEOs) simply do not have the correct chemistry to "flush". But even before that occurs, are you even sure you need a flush? Some varnish is harmless and likely will not result in any noticeable improvements in engine performance. Flushes are better reserved for things like sludge or stuck rings.

WELCOME TO THE BOARD!

 

[JLTD]

Rotella is a good oil, but I don't see any reason to put it in and run it for 10 minutes.

Just several shorter intervals with your chosen oil should do the trick.

 

[giantsforever]

Thanks, everyone.

I don't understand why the oil in the Volvo turned to black when I didn't even start up the engine in the 4 years since the last oil change. Any insights as to why? Should I do anything, other than change the oil and filter, which I just did?

 

[eljefino]

You could throw the solvent of your choice (a quart of MMO, kerosene) in for 5 min of idling before your next oil change. Best time to do it b/c the larger pores of your filter are already partially plugged (ergo, more efficient.) You don't want that in there all that long.

IDK where the black oil came from either-- that's weird-- unless it did legit dissolve some crud in the pan.

 

[giantsforever]

Thanks.

How about automatic transmission fluid for 5 minutes?

 

[Garak]

ATF won't help, and isn't high in detergents. Run a couple short OCIs. The varnish will be hard to tackle, but there's nothing wrong with a couple short OCIs if there's any concern about other material (i.e. sludge) needing to be flushed out.

 

[Onetor]

I would run short intervals (1,000 miles) on a quality synthetic oil with a synthetic oil filter (Fram ultra is good) or any other.

 

[giantsforever]

Thanks. My prior car was a Camry (automatic) that was in even worse condition - BLACK ATF and differential fluid (also ATF). In retrospect, I shouldn't have bought it, but I was able to keep it on the road for 4 years. Even the oil recycle place said they'd never seen ATF that black. Is it safe to generalize that when I first get a vehicle and that fluid is egregiously abnormal in color, I should do very frequent fluid changes? Toyota recommended 15k for the transmission and differential. What would be the interval to change if I ever come across black ATF?

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

Don't waste synthetic oil on short oil change intervals. If you're sticking to very short intervals, use the cheapest conventional oil with ratings that satisfy your owner's manual requirements. Nearly every synthetic oil you would likely spring for the cost will be much less polar than the cheaper conventionals, meaning they have even less ability to "pull" some of the junk out of your engine if there is some sludge. Pennzoil conventional, Rotella T4 10w30, Delo conventional, etc. will all be great choices for your first couple changes. I certainly won't argue with Fram Ultras for the filters.

If you do have sludge, I'd use Pennzoil conventional 10W-40 with 20% sump capacity replaced with MMO for 1000 miles, x3 changes, oil only (keep the filter if it's a Fram Ultra). The Marvel Mystery Oil will thin the 10W-40 down a hair but still be plenty safe. After 3 rounds like this, it's probably pretty clean. Change with whatever oil you want for the long term, and put a new Ultra on it!

 

[giantsforever]

Thanks, SubieRubyRoo.

Just to be clear, my cars take about 4 quarts of oil. How much MMO do you recommend I add? And the total amount of oil I would add would be 4 quarts minus the amount of MMO, right?

Thanks

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

4 quarts would be about 24oz of Marvel Mystery Oil and 3.25 quarts oil (3 quarts, 8 oz).

 

[giantsforever]

thanks

 

[dlundblad]

Run a few normal OCI's of M1 0w40.

 

[giantsforever]

Thanks.

I love Mobil 1. What is the advantage of 0W-40?

My cars are really old, so they call for 10w30. Is there any problem with using 0W-40?

Thanks

 

[demarpaint]

Synthetic HDEO by itself is not going flush out a dirty engine. My neighbour tried with a bunch of TDT 5W40 I sold him, and Mobil 1 0W40. He might have tried with a Shell product as well, I forget now. After about 6 or 7 OCI's he realized it wasn't happening. I've seen it in other cases as well over the years. Maybe people have gotten lucky once in a blue moon, I say the odds aren't in your favor. If the engine is in need of a flush and you want something safe that works reasonably fast, get some Kreen, and save yourself a lot of time.