seems like the clutch disc is too thick

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I'm working on my girlfriends 2003 mazda protege LX 2.0l. I'm replacing the clutch and several things that need attention. I got the clutch kit an exedy KMZ08.

The problem is that when I got the transmission on and went to install the slave cylinder, I noticed the release fork was near the end of its travel. I suspected the throwout bearing being in backwards, that wasn't the case. The clutch cover/pressure plate and pilot bearing are identical and spec exactly the same as the stock ones. It seems that the clutch disc is too thick making the diaphragm spring fingers all just about parallel to each other.

Is there any other cause to this problem because the clutch disc just looks like a not worn-out one of the one that came out of there?
 
It might be the wrong kit. My vendor that carries Exedy does not list a clutch kit for the LX, the other trim models there is that kit number. For the LX they list all the components separately.
 
Also I just checked my Mazda parts lookup (Mazda dealer also) and there is no Mazda Clutch kit for that vehicle. Their clutch kits stop at 2001MY. 2002 and 2003 Protege's everything is serviced individually.
 
I did compare the old parts. I said, "The clutch cover/pressure plate and pilot bearing are identical and spec exactly the same as the stock ones." The only difference is that the clutch disc is thicker.

This is straight from the exedy site:

KMZ08 2002 - 2003 PROTEGE LX L4; 2.0; Non-Turbo; Gas(ALL)

And everything I've seen online has matched the KMZ08 kit. the product catalog corroborates.

The p/n listed on the boxes are MZD007US and MZC619 which both show the 2003 protege LX 2.0 as an application.

I'll measure tomorrow to be sure the right parts were in the box if I can get a correct thickness for the disc.
 
I took it apart and checked the P/N on the clutch disc and pressure plate; they were the same as listed on the box, mfr. website, and everything else I've found.

Every measurement I could think of to compare the old and new pressure plates was of negligible difference.

the only difference I can find is clutch plate thickness, but I can't find a spec on new thickness anywhere. The FSM only lists minimum depth of rivets.
 
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I don't have specs for that kit specifically, but on 99% of the clutches we design, the fingers end up being right around parallel with the disc.
 
That's how the fingers are in relation to the disc/flywheel/mating surface. The problem is coming from when release bearing comes in contact with the fingers, the clutch fork is at the end of the travel.

How far are the fingers supposed to move during normal operation?
 
Originally Posted By: Brandon1048
That's how the fingers are in relation to the disc/flywheel/mating surface. The problem is coming from when release bearing comes in contact with the fingers, the clutch fork is at the end of the travel.

How far are the fingers supposed to move during normal operation?


Generally full release is achieved around .250"
 
The new disc had better be thicker than the old one!
That is the whole point, isn't it?
Who knows what you actually have in there?
Is the TB the same?
 
The throwout bearing has the same part number a the one that came out of the car and is identical.

The pedal adjustment doesn't affect it, the clutch release fork is at the end if it's travel without the slave cylinder installed.
 
You mean...the fork is pushed in as if the slave were already installed?

I've never tried this, but can the fork be moved by hand at all(if even possible without hydraulics)?

Could things have not been lined up correctly? Most 'authentic' EXEDY kits will come with an instructions sheet from them, as a tip.

So, where did you get this kit, if you don't mind the asking?
 
The instructions were very basic and were not of any use.

With it all together, I can move the fork back and forth by hand. By the time the TOB comes in contact with the pressure plate fingers, the fork is at the end of it's travel.

I got the kit from amazon. I just installed an exedy kit (kmz03) on my mazdaspeed miata with no problems whatsoever.

I think a thicker TOB or a longer clutch fork pivot stud would fix the problem, but these parts really should work.
 
I'm stumped, TBH. This is the LX and not the turbo charged speed, right? I'm also very inexperienced, myself. So, others may be able to help here. Try looking up some youtube vids or contacting EXEDY for any detailed instructions that you may could have used.

Could you have the flywheel on backwards??? Not sure of your model, it sounds like it's not thick enough, from your last description. The release bearing with the pressure plate/disc/flywheel/pilot bearing(?) all snug inside, activating the fork barely gets the fingers on the pressure plate moving???

Sounds like a job for ETCG, if no one else can help out here.

EDIT: Did you miss snugging up the transmission/clutch housing anywhere? Anything that might fasten things together tighter on the casing?
 
Fresh start with everything off
2012-07-09_18-03-24_860.jpg

flywheel on, torqued down in the correct pattern
2012-07-14_07-04-24_960.jpg

clutch disc with alignment tool in
2012-07-14_07-06-20_100.jpg

clutch cover on studs, not bolted
2012-07-14_07-06-53_162.jpg

clutch cover tigntened in three stages in the correct pattern
2012-07-14_07-11-52_617.jpg

clutch fork forward limit (transmission not in vehicle)
2012-07-14_07-17-16_692.jpg

clutch fork rearward limit (transmission not in vehicle)
2012-07-14_07-17-24_532.jpg

clutch fork forward limit on vehicle
2012-07-14_07-29-51_962.jpg

clutch fork rearward limit on vehicle
2012-07-14_07-29-57_619.jpg

TOB rearward limit
2012-07-14_07-16-49_481.jpg

TOB forward limit
2012-07-14_07-16-55_303.jpg


Video of clutch being actuated


Does everything look good here?
 
Originally Posted By: stephen9666
Is the fork in the correct position on the throwout bearing?


Yes it is. The FSM shows it the same way as I have it and the wear marks on the old throwout bearing correspond with how I have it.

I think it's okay now though. I'm just waiting for my set of four motor mounts and lower control arms to get here.
 
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