I've seen sludge in oil pans and under rocker covers. Neither are "hot spots". Sludge can form anywhere as oil oxidizes. Doesn't even need high heat. Just use it too long. Or, have a PCV problem with moisture accumulation. There are different types of sludge. It can be deposited and cleaned from anywhere.
Bypass filter can prevent sludge. It is an added sump, oil cooler, and moisture absorber... 3 out of 4 issues that most sludgers have inadequacies with. The 4th is the oil pump(pump size, pump flow, pump bypass, and oil psi). Not even worth addressing the pump's issues.
Oversized filter as an added sump was VAG way of dealing with 1.8T sludge. Ford also went the opposite, or confused way, going from small filter to big and back to small or whatever with the ecoboost 3.5... makes you wonder if cost/packaging trumped what an engineer wanted.
Plenty of older engines used smaller filters in passenger vehicles but a 1.5-2x sized filter when engine was put in a work application(truck). Whether bypass or full flow or sump size, additional filtration/fluid capacity is not even worth debating.
I've rebuilt sludged engines, cleaned sludged engines, used oversized filters, installed bypasses, and prevented sludge from ever occurring in known problem engines. Guess what, a bypass filter just works. There is no paper or study or test that can prove that wrong. Whether you benefit or not depends on your engine or your goals, and how much time you want to waste waiting in line for an oil change, or by doing it yourself.
I'd say that I can give you an essay of nonsense from my couch or I can just tell you from my experience...bypass filter will clean and prevent sludge. I have cleaned a sludged engine by installing a bypass, and topping off the oil as needed. The element would clog rapidly. It took almost 10 elements to clean out that engine, with each element lasting longer than the previous. Someone is under and over estimating the detergent/dispersant capability of an oil at the same time. Ever work on an engine? ever install a bypass? ever own a sludge monster? ever drive a single engine over 500k miles without a rebuild? I have!
Give you a little hint, UOA's are NOT even needed. Baseline is NOT even needed. Cost of UOA should not even be considered.
With a bypass filter, as long as the oil looks clean, it works. Replace the full flow as required by the filter or engine manufacturer. Replace the bypass when oil is dirty, usually when bypass flow is reduced or when bypass clogs...no specific mileage point for a bypass media quitting point. And, top off for consumption, if any, at each fillup.
I've worked on 300k engines, with bypass filters, that NEVER had a UOA, or a drain plug removal.... none with any mechanical issues, no oil consumption, perfect leak down and compression, great oil pressure, and no annoying noises. And, the argument that the vehicle to rust away, fall apart, or dissolve... if meaningless which seems to be an argument against any and all maintenance. There are vehicles from the 1950's, 60's, 70's, 80's, 90's still on the road. They don't dissolve away if someone keeps them up.
Raidin, both Wix and Fram show that your engine uses a cartridge filter. If true, then you WILL NOT BE ABLE TO USE A DUAL REMOTE BYPASS as seen in Zpinch's Honda's photo. Standalone only!
http://www.framcatalog.com/PartDetailWindow.aspx?b=F&pn=TG10358
http://wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=57064
Economics are meaningless since time wasted is never mentioned. Trip to dealer or quicklube or mechanic, waiting in line, waiting for service, trip away from dealer.... my time is worth more than that service. As such, some of us don't want to service every OLM, 3750, 6 month, yearly, 5k, 7.5k.... And, a bypass that is easy to change in a few minutes which will allow me to work a few more hours every month or two. When calculating ROI, calculate the time to go to the dealer/quicklube/mechanic, the time without the vehicle, the time waiting for service, the return trip, and what your FREE TIME or hourly pay rate is worth, and add that cost/expense into your calculations. My ROI on a used Frantz was skipping the 1st OCI. That's pretty quick.
For someone driving 5k-10k a month, bypass is a no brainer. I don't drive that much anymore and do miss the national scenery.
The bypass filter investment is meaningless if you are not taking care of the rest of the car. Besides the mentioned plugs/sensors.... brakes need to be bled, coolant needs changing, thermostat and radiator caps need changing, transmission fluid needs changing, engine air filter needs changing, PSF if not electric steering, .... too many over-oiled vehicles neglected everywhere else, including car washes, waxes, undercarriage cleaning...
Take care of it whether you install the bypass or not.