seating torque converter

[Dinosaur]

I just bought a used automatic transmission for a 2003 subaru forester with 2.5 four. I pulled the torque converter to replace the front seal, but now i cannot get it to go back in the last half inch. Anybody know any tips for getting it to seat fully?

 

[Dinosaur]

oops. i wasn;t very clear. the seal is seated fine. I cannot get the torque converter to seat properly.

 

[chevrofreak]

Turn it? There should be 2 notches on the snout that lock onto a pin.

 

[BuzzCut]

Once it is lined up properly it will drop right in. Rotate as you do this.

 

[oilboy123]

Turn while gently pushing. It should engage, the tabs where the bolts go in (or stud base) should be be below the face of the bellhousing.

Sometimes it takes some patience. Keep turning while pushing, it will engage at some point.

 

[Dinosaur]

thanks chevrofreak. i've spemt two hours turning this thing with no luck yet. there is a splined shaft in the center, and an eight inch long pipe like device over that. the pipe device or hollow shaft has two flat spots on the end that goes into the tranny. the flats are a half-inch deep, and the converter needs to go in another half inch. So im thinking that these are what are keeping it from seating. i'll play with it some more after dinner. hoping somebody has some trick for this.

 

[oilboy123]

Go with chevrofreaks advise.....sounds like he has Subaru experience, I don't. My advise is gerneric........
Patience is all it takes, it will go in just dont force it, or you will damage the front pump.

Sometimes you have to make sure the converter is being supported properly. If you are just turning it only try lifting it more. It might be at enough of an angle that it just slight enough that it won't engage the splines.

Good luck

 

[mechtech2]

Torque converters are pretty heavy, aren't they?
Try standing the trans on end [if possible], so gravity is your friend.
But if not, pressure and rotation will get her in. They can be fussy. Make sure it isn't cocked while you do this.
When you put the trans in, devise some way to KEEP the converter seated. It can come out with the subsequent jiggling involved.

 

[oilboy123]

Good point mechtech2

I have read tips to put a small C-clamp on to just hold it on. I have never tried it. I am just careful to not let it pop back out.

 

[alreadygone]

Certainly not my area of expertise. Think I've assisted employees working on their personal vehicles couple times in the past 30 years. But mechtech's advice,"Try standing the trans on end [if possible], so gravity is your friend. " certainly makes sense, and is what I thought of suggeesting when I first read thread title.

Bob

 

[onion]

All good advice on this thread. I've never dealt with a Subaru, but I've installed plenty of torque converters in cars, trucks, and assorted equipment. I'll second oilboy's second post about lifting the converter a bit- there will be a certain amount of 'play' in the converter... try to center it as you rotate the converter. Mechtech's suggestion is also good if tipping the trans. up is practical in your situation.

Whatever you do, don't pull it up with the bolts. I've seen several transmission pumps destroyed this way.

 

[oilboy123]

Well did you get her?????

 

[Dinosaur]

Not yet. I spent another hour trying the turning and jiggling method with no joy. I will have some help available this weekend to stand this heavy thing on end and we will see if gravity is really my friend.

Thanks for all the replies and good tips.
I will post back when done.

 

[oilboy123]

You should have got it by now. Are you 100% sure it's not seated?

 

[PeteM]

I have been a transmission rebuilder for several years,(26+), and I know that sometimes converters just don't seem to want to go. Try this: with the palm of your hand, smack the converter in a clockwise direction from the 11:00 to the 12:00 position so as to rotate it clockwise. this will normally offset the weight of the converter from stopping engagement. It may take several rotations before fully seating. Another thing you can try is to look into the front pump beond the seal and see the position off the pump gears. Try to start the converter by aligning the pump lugs somewhat close to the position of the pump gears.

 

[Dinosaur]

She's in. thanks for all of the tips. I spent at least three hours not getting it in with the transmission horizontal. Those that posted that "gravity is your friend" were absolutely right. We stood that thing on end, and the TC dropped in place in seconds.

THANKS EVERYBODY!

The car is running and going now. The new (used) tranny shifts beautifully. But now I have a slight whine and a minor popping noise over bumps. Do you think the whine and popping could be from the CV joints? One of the joints came apart when we were pulling the axles out of the old transmission. It went back together OK. The pitch of the whine changes with road speed, not engine speed. The whine is very soft, almost inaudible. The Forester transmission has a seperate sump for the front differential. I have Valvoline 80W-90 GL-5 lube in her now. This is the factory recommended weight. I was thinking about temporarily putting in a heavier gear oil to see if the pitch of the whine changes. This would seem to eliminate the diff as the source of the whine if the whine is the same. Your thoughts and suggestions are appreciated.

Happy Holidays!

 

[oilboy123]

Whine does not sound good. I take it the Subaru trans has a filter that you replaced with new fluid.

That would be my first guess the filter and fluid condition and or level. Maybe PeteM has some ideas........

 

[parimento1]

might be some gear whine in the diff