Seafoam vs MMO for cold eatehr startup

[ziggy]

Ivebeen using MMO for a while now, in winter, as an easy startup, for my 95 neon ATX SOHC> I always had a problem with ticking or clatter under the hood, upon a good cold startup, meaning the temeprature was about20 degrees or less, and sat outside for more than 8 huors...hard starting. Used MMo and alot easier, but still have alot of engine clatter..other day i used seafoam...i put 8 0zs. into 7 gallons of gas, and the ticking/caltter laste only about 3 minutes max, then smoothed out... it appeare to have done better than MMO...
Was wondering, what was everyone else's thoughts and experinces, with both products on cold morning starts with these products!
I have also used over and over, lucas gas additive, while it did give em a much easier startup, still had lots of chatter under the hood...seafoam seemd to diminish it to smooth idle in 3 minutes or less...

 

[moribundman]

I just had to come across this before breakfast. John Browning, is that you?

 

[Greggy_D]

Originally Posted By: moribundman
I just had to come across this before breakfast. John Browning, is that you?


No, if it was John each sentence would end in an exclamation point.

(Not a slam against John, it's just his writing style.)

 

[moribundman]

I thought he had maybe moved on from the excessive use of exclams to unwarranted ellipses.

 

[ziggy]

LOL, no this is not john browning...my name is Jason
I was curious to see what others had to say about seafoam vs MMO and cols start ups..like, which lubed better. I also noticed my engine seemd to burn more fuel througout warmup, over 5 minutes...so made me wonder, why does the seafoam seem to do that?

 

[[RT] ProjUltraZ]

i kinda miss that contentious guy

 

[Gary Allan]

I'm trying to get a grip on your "clatter". I would normally associate that with oil viscosity. Now if it's the cold knocking associated with piston deposits ..then it's just a matter of which reduces those deposits more or allows them to accumulate less.

I'd run either agent repeatedly until the clatter did not occur. If that cannot be achieved, you're using the wrong agent. This should only occur with (mostly) perpetual shorter trip usage.

 

[moribundman]

At 20°F ambient I also clatter.

 

[ziggy]

OK... the caltter, kind sounds like..tapping on an emtpy aluminum tin..like a hollow tap, tap.ap tap..ect ect its lasts about 5 to 7 minutes. That is without any additive..I had used MMO, and the chatter went away in like 2 minutes. With seafoam, its lastas abuot 2 minutes, then smooths out. SO its hard to say, is it pinging? carbon deposits built up? EGR need cleaning?
I do have new plugs in and all.

 

[Gary Allan]

Again, I suggest continued use (as in back to back tanks) of whatever agent reduces the condition ..until it doesn't occur anymore. If this isn't a lifter related noise due to cold pumping properties of your oil selection ..and you're just coincidentally seeing shorter duration out of some random "whatever" AND you do indeed have a cold carbon knock (CCDI) ..then you're either not using the right agent ..or you're not using it often enough.

Read this

..and THIS

Combustion Chamber Deposits form on the top of the pistons and on the cylinder heads. They increase compression and absorb heat during combustion to later release it during the intake cycle. In some engines with tight squish domes, combustion chamber deposits cause the piston to actually hit the cylinder head. This is referred to as combustion chamber deposit interference or “carbon rap.” Combustion chamber deposits also flake off as they get large, and these flakes can get trapped between the valves and valve seat, resulting in compression loss, difficult starting and rough idle.

Higher compression and stored heat cause increased intake fresh charge temperatures and the increased likelihood of pre-ignition “knock” or “pinging” when the fuel spontaneously combusts prior to spark ignition. This increases emissions and may cause engine damage. Many of today’s cars have “knock” sensors that adjust spark timing to prevent knock.

Although audible knock is controlled, power is lost from retarded timing. Higher octane fuels of 4-5 octane numbers can be used to help prevent knock, an effect called “octane requirement increase.” As a vehicle ages, more expensive higher octane fuel is needed to keep it operating at peak performance. By cleaning combustion chamber deposits, knock is controlled, power is restored, fuel economy increases and higher octane fuels are less necessary for peak performance.

 

[ahoier]

Wow.....I know this is an older thread....but [censored], I tend to be an MMO-junkie LOL; I put it in everything; use it as top-off in my power steering between flushes, use it in my automatic transmission between flushes, use it in the gasoline at 2-4 oz. per 10 gallons.....and even in the oil....


Well [censored]....just changed out the oil, used QS green bottle, 5W-30....and my "cold start clatter" is gone.....it happened with the half pint of MMO even in the crankcase.....so can't figure out....gotta be something magical with the Seafoam LOL....

I was "contemplating" going up a weight to 10W-30, using QS....since that's the brand I've been running, other than the one run with Mopar Motor Oil, which I was told was rebadged Pennzoil (SOPUS).....so wanted to keep the "variables" to a minimum...

But yea, can't figure it out.....3.5 quarts of QS 5w30 + .50 quart (pint) of MMO - had the cold start tick.

Changed out, moved to 4 quarts QS 5w30 - and 6 oz. of Seafoam as measured using my MixMizer Syringe....hehe.

And the "tick" is gone.....any idea "how thin" Seafoam is, vs. MMO? I know the various VOA's seem to think MMO is about a 10Weight oil......but Seafoam seems almost thinner.....can't figure why Seafoam would stop the startup noise...hehe.


On the other hand Wondering if this is why Seafoam redesigned their cans and gave them the awkward "domed" architecture...? lol. This happened to my in my trunk, unopened at that...

Note: I don't believe the seafoam was compromised in any way, as I sucked it through the syringe for measuring

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