safely cleaning a filter

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I come from the 10k mile and change it camp, up until all my reading here. Now I have no intentions of changing it before 30-50k miles but want to keep it from getting to filthy. NOw I've seen it said a dozen times that improper cleaning of a paper filter can do a lot more damage than good. I haven't seen anyone say how to safely clean one.

Can I just take it out of it's housing and use a vacuum or should I just tap the loose dirt and debris out?

Thanks
Richard
 
I don't see the appeal given that you can usually order a BRAND NEW paper filter online for ~$10 or get one locally a the auto parts store/Walmart for not much more.

On the few occasions where I had no choice, I simply tapped out the loose stuff and gave it a "gentle" blast of compressed air from the clean side.

Best,
 
The only 2 Air Filters that I'm aware of that can be cleaned and oiled are the K&N Filter and the Fram Air Hog Air Filter. I use the Fram Air Hog and have not needed to clean and oil that filter yet.

I'm not aware of any paper air filters that you can take apart, clean and re-install.
 
If you're going to clean a paper filter, just tap the loose debris off then vacuum it as best you can. Do not use compressed air, too easy to damage the weave, leaving your engine vulnerable to dirt.

There are some "lifetime" filters out there that you wash off with soap and water, but don't do that to a paper filter.
 
Originally Posted By: Familyguy
I don't see the appeal given that you can usually order a BRAND NEW paper filter online for ~$10 or get one locally a the auto parts store/Walmart for not much more.

On the few occasions where I had no choice, I simply tapped out the loose stuff and gave it a "gentle" blast of compressed air from the clean side.

Best,


Well as it's been said here, as the filter develops a healthy impregnation of fine particles it filters better than when it was new up until restriction becomes a problem.
 
Originally Posted By: mongo161
The only 2 Air Filters that I'm aware of that can be cleaned and oiled are the K&N Filter and the Fram Air Hog Air Filter. I use the Fram Air Hog and have not needed to clean and oil that filter yet.

I'm not aware of any paper air filters that you can take apart, clean and re-install.


I didn't plan on oiling it.
 
Given the low cost of regular air filters I'm not sure why you'd bother with this, but if you must I suggest you only take it out and tap loose stuff out. Anything more vigorous (vacuum, compressed air) has as much potential for damaging the filter (even in tiny ways you can't see) as for "revitalizing" it. You may well be doing more harm than good.

jeff
 
Originally Posted By: toyotapriusguy
Originally Posted By: Familyguy
I don't see the appeal given that you can usually order a BRAND NEW paper filter online for ~$10 or get one locally a the auto parts store/Walmart for not much more.

On the few occasions where I had no choice, I simply tapped out the loose stuff and gave it a "gentle" blast of compressed air from the clean side.

Best,


Well as it's been said here, as the filter develops a healthy impregnation of fine particles it filters better than when it was new up until restriction becomes a problem.


"filters better" = more restriction = poorer fuel economy (likely)

*shrug*
 
Any filtration that Ive ever done, when the cake is disturbed/cracked, you get preferential flow, differences in filtration, particle passthrough, etc. For these reasons Id leave it alone as much as possible. Of course if you have a squirrel or mouse living in the filter box, leaving acorns or paper tower remnants, you may want to vacuum them out. But Id prevent doing much of anything to the filter. You want an even loading of dirt on the surface for consistent even flow through.
 
Take the filter out of the housing and tap it upside down to get rid of any loose particules. No air compressor blowing. Recheck sealing surfaces and replace.
 
Personally, I think there's more to lose than gain from cleaning air filters. The filter's job is to trap foreign particles and prevent them from entering the combustion chamber. Any attempt to clean the filter will result in breaking loose any debris that's stuck in the filter, which is difficult to remove completely.

So when you put the filter back in, I wouldn't imagine it being too difficult for the constant vacuum to eventually break it completely loose and suck it straight into the combustion chamber.

Replacements are cheap, and I replace mine at every oil change (min. 6,250 miles). But then again, I operate my vehicles in a dusty environment.
 
Put a restriction gauge on it (Filterminder, Informer, etc.) and leave it alone until it shows significant restriction. No reason to touch it any more often. Look at the link below to see how and why.

Air Filters and Economy

This 2009 report tests the effect of dirty air filter on fuel economy using standard EPA dyno routines. They used later model EFI cars (2003-2007)and one 1975 carbureted car. The conclusion was that the fuel injection could compensate for restriction up to the point where the car's performance had deteriorated to being barely running and fuel economy decreased only by a percent or so maximum. The carbureted car was more effected but fuel economy wasn't lowered by nearly as much as "common knowledge" dictates... only 2.5 percent.

In every case lower end performance was unaffected until the restriction reached the level at which insufficient air was being inhaled. Performance dropped mightily but the EFI could trim fuel to keep the mixture about right. They found that in "normal" driving situation, the car was almost unaffected by a clogged filter because the airflow needs are so low in most situations. In a few cases, the filters were so clogged that the engine sucked them into the intake tube.

This research also reinforces the fact that a "free-flow" air filter will not contribute much (if anything) to fuel economy. Some gains might be noted if the entire system was changed and a tuned intake added, vs just a replacement filter element.

Power output is a separate matter, but these days, the OEs are giving cars decent systems with more than enough flow and even some good tuning. But, like everything else, how much you gain by replacing a system is relative to how good the new is vs the old and whether it meets the engines flow requirements.T
 
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I'm with Falcon. Look in your owners manual and see the AF change interval. When you reach the oem interval,remove the old filter,throw it in the trash,then install a new oem AF. That's all there is to it,boys.
 
I think you got your opinion from the troop...JUST CHANGE IT WHEN THE MANUAL SAYS, or around that time of course. Not trying to be a jerk at all, just don't skimp on air filtration. It is sooo important to the "mechanical soundness" of the engine.
 
Just put on a restriction indicator.

I've seen lots of damage from "tapping", both from creasing the gasket where it tends to be weaker (especially in the Toyota wavy types) and from cracking the glue on the types that have solid glue rather than polyurethane.
 
I'm not a fan of removing (paper disposable) filters unless they are going to be changed which I do at around 30-35k.

K&N, AirHogg, and other resuable filters usually have gaskets/surrounds made out of a much more resilient material.

Compare that to paper filters (Fram, Purolator, Wix etc) that use cheap foam rubber gaskets/surrounds. They seal by being slightly oversized so that they "crush" into the lip/rim of the airbox. When you take one out look at where its compressed (permanently) from the contours of the airbox.

I'm not too fond of trying to put that filter back in and then hoping that it seals up as well as it did when the seal was brand new.
 
I start using Toyota OEM air filter. Fram Air Filter cost $12.47. It doesn't fit perfectly well.

The best thing about OEM filter is it fits perfect. It only cost me $8.
 
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