rustoleum paint jobs anyone try it out??

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Rustoleum is my friend. But not for car exteriors!

Get another product.

And surface prep is where the work is - the spraying is easy.
Open the hood or take it off to get it vertical - it will be much easier to spray right with a can.
 
Rustoleum has great products +1 on Hard Hat. That said a deteriorating clear coat is a unstoppable cancer and needs to be removed & recoating with clear will net you poor results.
 
Very interesting article! Almost unbelievable results with a roller,Rustoleum and patience. That being said, for flat black and a hood, I'd take the hood off, do real good prep and go rattle can. It looks likes the results he gets really come with the buffing to bring up the shine which won't help you.I think if you leave it at the final sanded stage to be "flat" you'll be disappointed.
 
Originally Posted By: evandostert
I don't think you read the link at all.


I know he didn't, there is no way that thread could be read in less than a day. It must be the worlds longest thread.
grin2.gif


I've seen good roller work before, the guy that did that in the thread had a good writeup....almost makes me want to go buy a beater so I can try it.. The key word being "almost".
 
i do, if you saw those cars in person, you would think they looked dull and lifeless, like 20 year old paint but worse, no shine.

you really need clearcoat, 2000 wetsand, couple stages of buffing to get any decent shine
 
Did you read the FLAT BLACK part of my post. This is only for a hood or stripes.
 
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Originally Posted By: [RT
ProjUltraZ]i do, if you saw those cars in person, you would think they looked dull and lifeless, like 20 year old paint but worse, no shine.

you really need clearcoat, 2000 wetsand, couple stages of buffing to get any decent shine


No shine isn't an accurate description.

They don't look like a $4000 paint job and the shine looks like it is on the surface like a gloss Rustoleum paint job instead of looking deep. That's the $3950 difference. They are still an amazing value for someone willing to do some work.
 
I rattle canned my old mazda pickup truck green. Probably made every rookie mistake. The density of a rattle can is hard to control so you get some velvety and some smooth spots. It looked awful afterwards.

I like that brush on technique though. I'm cheap enough the time may come again when I do something like that again.
 
Originally Posted By: willix
OK i looked, They look ok as long as you never wash it.


or never let it see the sun. the UV will kill any "gloss" you speak of in a matter of weeks
 
I knew a guy that had an early 80's malibu. He pieced it together with panels from a ton of donor cars to get rid of the rust and dents. When it was done he had a car with 4 different colors. Being broke he used about 40 bucks of Rustoleum and Krylon to paint it royal blue with white racing stripes. From far away it looked good since he actually got the stripes straight as an arrow.

Worst job I ever saw was an 87 Firebird someone used a roller on to paint it something similar to Porsche red.
 
Originally Posted By: evandostert
Did you read the FLAT BLACK part of my post. This is only for a hood or stripes.


You can paint with Rustoleum but there are some limitations.. The color will be good for about 2 years and then will rapidly oxidize to a dull chalky gray. The flat or satin finish paints will do so as well. Apparently, Rustoleum rattle can paints don't have a UV inhibitor additive. I painted the hood and rear hatch on my 89 turbo Caravan. It looked good for about a year then started to dull. I didn't try to do anything to protect it. Maybe a clear coat would have helped.

I did something a little different which probably won't help you any but I'll explain it anyway. One of my sons' has a white 94 GC with all the usual mopar pealing paint problems from that era. I started doing touch ups on it with Rustoleum epoxy appliance enamel. I've been doing this off and on for something like 4 years or so. The paint held up pretty good, but it started getting chalky just like regular stuff. Las fall I did some body work on it and replaced the hood, side door, rear hatch and rear bumper. I did about a 70% paint job, sanding priming and painting a whole panel at a time. Came out looking pretty good. Let it set about 2 weeks, then clear coated everything with clear spray. I did 2 special areas with another clear product to see if it was any better at protecting the paint. By this coming fall, I should have a fairly good idea if the clear coating holds up.
 
I did the wiper arms of my Honda due, to it flaking off the black paint and turning chrome or silver. I used Rustoleum Gloss Black. It was shiny and had silver flakes or crystals. It is now almost 2 years. The wiper arms still attained most of the black with some rock chips 4 on one and around 2 on the other. I laid down like 4-5 coats but still have chips. The lack of UV protection might explain why the arms lost it's luster. The shiny silver flakes or crystals are completely gone. It is more semi-gloss or kind of a flat black now. Auto paint can be had online in kit form like Summit Racing and such. Another alternative is prepping the car yourself and bringing it in to a cheap paint shop and letting them shoot it. Clear coat should be done or it'll lose it's luster even the paint does not. Had a friend shoot a car with paint pre-mixed with clearcoat. When it was done. It must've been the wrong paint because, he had to wax the car every time just, to make it shiny. It looked dull otherwise.
 
I coat new plain jane black steal rims with Rust-Oleum Satin spray can black before first use. I use a air mask to prevent inhaling paint. We have two sets of rims for each car for summer and winter tires (16 rims total). I clean rims at car wash when they are freshly taken off and give them a day or two to dry. Then I knock them down to 3 or 4 PSI for storage during off season, and lightly touch them up with the Rust-Oleum Satin before storing. I hold thick paper from cereal boxes cut to curve of rim to mask tire so paint does not get on it. This keeps wheels looking like new. I pay extra attention to paint weld areas.
 
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