Rust converter
- Thread starter ffl
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POR-15 is the best stuff I've ever seen on rust.
Ospho to prep. Navel Jelly also works. Kleen Strip makes an Ospho clone.
http://www.ospho.com/
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-...20kleen%20strip
http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=33&prodid=99
http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=32&prodid=81
http://www.ospho.com/
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-...20kleen%20strip
http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=33&prodid=99
http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=32&prodid=81
Sand blast and self etching primer before top coat.
Rust converters don't work worth a P hole in the snow.
Rust converters don't work worth a P hole in the snow.
I've used the plasticote rust converter and rust bullet (similar to POR). *so far* I've had good results. Best option is probably phosphoric acid (ospho, naval jelly etc) the a coating like rust bullet or POR. This is after you remove as much rust as you can first.
POR-15 works well. Degrease the surface, then slather on the POR-15. Get a couple coats on it, and it should last.
Don't forget to get the backside if you can!
Don't forget to get the backside if you can!
I would use Loctite Extend.
Those "converters" are latex (water) based and merely put a brittle shell over the rusty area.I sandblast to bare steel,2 coats of POR15,and then use SEM rubberized undercoating.Then check it every year for touch ups or re-blasting/coating....etc
Taste indeed!
Why fish oil? Seems expensive compared to corn or other veg oil?
Vinegar water can also be used as a rust remover but is very slow.
Why fish oil? Seems expensive compared to corn or other veg oil?
Vinegar water can also be used as a rust remover but is very slow.
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Not the fish oil that you get at the drug store...
Fish oil has always been used as a rust preventative, it's a "drying" oil like linseed (which has also been used for this purpose, and making linoleum).
It dries, to a plastic (think the crust on some vegetable oil bottle capS0,and can be painted over.
http://www.septone.com.au/detail.asp?item_cat=&item_number=356&page_num=6
Fish oil has always been used as a rust preventative, it's a "drying" oil like linseed (which has also been used for this purpose, and making linoleum).
It dries, to a plastic (think the crust on some vegetable oil bottle capS0,and can be painted over.
http://www.septone.com.au/detail.asp?item_cat=&item_number=356&page_num=6
Perhaps some canned tuna?
You guys!
Time tested Rustoleum has a fish oil modified primer:
"769® DAMP PROOF RED PRIMER is a special fish-oil modified alkyd primer designed specifically to protect rusted steel against further rust and corrosion. Use on rusted steel surfaces where only minimal surface preparation (scraping and wire brushing) is practical."
http://www.rustoleum.com/tds/1018990 RO-11.pdf
Regarding rust reformers, I have used the watery types (Ospho) and the milky types (Extend) with little success. The marketing looks fantastic. Do some google research. There is at least one good research study ongoing that I am awaiting the results (I'm away from my own computer where I have some notes). But I remember at least on military study that concluded that they worked marginally.
POR-15 also gets mixed reviews. But, if you can FULLY encapsulate the rust from moisture and oxygen than there's a chance it can be subdued. Any breach will allow the rust to creep underneath the coating.
Just my thoughts.
Time tested Rustoleum has a fish oil modified primer:
"769® DAMP PROOF RED PRIMER is a special fish-oil modified alkyd primer designed specifically to protect rusted steel against further rust and corrosion. Use on rusted steel surfaces where only minimal surface preparation (scraping and wire brushing) is practical."
http://www.rustoleum.com/tds/1018990 RO-11.pdf
Regarding rust reformers, I have used the watery types (Ospho) and the milky types (Extend) with little success. The marketing looks fantastic. Do some google research. There is at least one good research study ongoing that I am awaiting the results (I'm away from my own computer where I have some notes). But I remember at least on military study that concluded that they worked marginally.
POR-15 also gets mixed reviews. But, if you can FULLY encapsulate the rust from moisture and oxygen than there's a chance it can be subdued. Any breach will allow the rust to creep underneath the coating.
Just my thoughts.
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Really ?
the phosphoric acid must only be there for the taste then !
+1
that's why I drink it.
Phosphoric acid is used to parkerize (guns) metal. The use a different method, but it works similar. I think the rust is changed to iron phosphate.
I brushed some Ospho on some rusty car parts that sat out in the weather. The surface stayed clean for about 3 years. This was bare metal exposed to the elements for 3 years. It wasn't under a coat of paint.
Really ?
the phosphoric acid must only be there for the taste then !
+1
that's why I drink it.
Phosphoric acid is used to parkerize (guns) metal. The use a different method, but it works similar. I think the rust is changed to iron phosphate.
I brushed some Ospho on some rusty car parts that sat out in the weather. The surface stayed clean for about 3 years. This was bare metal exposed to the elements for 3 years. It wasn't under a coat of paint.
Unless you dive in and prep and coat properly, a dab of the rust converter sauce will come back and bite you. Again and again.
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