As I recall, the VW Bug rear axel torque was 900 ft.lbs. Seems the Germans don't want it to come loose.
Smoky
Smoky
Rust belt bolt removal fun.
- Thread starter Trav
- Start date
Nearly the weight of the car
Blow torch is your friend. Blow torch, followed by hair hammer with a nut buster attachment followed by blow torch again.
They are Whats called a TTY (Torque to Yield) bolt. It is a strange feeling on these because the torque is so high, at 148ft.lb it feels tight then at 90° it feels very tight but after that for the last 90° you can actually feel the bolt stretching.
At almost 68 years old I need a little equalizer in the form of a 40" 3/4 breaker bar and that was bending slightly but it is doable.
Better get a 60" breaker bar now for when you are over 70.
40 is the longest I found if even more is needed a multiplier will do the job, plenty of ways to skin that cat.
Not on these, the hub bearing is right behind it as well as the CV axle. Where you would need the heat is a taper going into the CC nose, no way are you getting that hot enough with getting the sealed hub bearing smoking hot.
'Extra Gutentight' as the Germans would call it.
Good lord that's a lot of torque though. Baffles the mind that something would need to be THAT tight.
Well that sucks. Welcome to snap town population 5 or 6 bolts and your sea of salty impotent rage tears
I've been in the rust belt my whole life, and I hate it. Every job takes hours longer to do. I've learned to paint everything new with caliper paint, including nuts and bolts. Anti-seize has become my best friend. Every spring I have to inspect each vehicle for new corrosion areas, sand, and paint. Will be moving in 8 yrs, like Donald said, MOVE OUT. Can't wait.
Large diameter bolts on the German cars compared for the same placement on say a Honda. I don't get why the TtoY is even needed other then head bolts, mains and rods. I just don't see it needed in engine motor mounts, and control arms where the large diameter bolt is fine as a non Tto Y bolts.