Running Valvaoline VR1 50 WT in a GM 3.4L engine?

[Rockford Fosgate Fan]

I purchased a 2003 Pontiac Aztek which is powered by a 3.4L engine several months ago and now it has 34500 miles. Around 32000 miles I switched from dealer oil to Valvaoline 10w30 Synpower full synthetic oil. Now I have developed a leak around the oil pan and needs to be addressed. For the most part I'm capable of doing basic mechanical work due to the fact I use to own a car that required a lot of maintenance. But changing the pan gasket on this FWD crossover is beyond my ability. As a cheap fix to help slow this leak I was considering 50 wt VR1 oil. From my experience in working in auto parts it seems people always get nice results with this heavy oil. Now I'm aware it's cold weather performance is lackluster but living in Louisiana the engine will rarely see cold weather. So what does everyone think about running such a thick oil in this engine?

Thanks

 

[dave1251]

I recommend that you just repair your gasket. Rather than use an racing oil to mask the problem. But if you must use an heavier oil use an normal PCMO such as Valvoline 20W-50. VR1 does not have an additive pack for normal every day driving.

 

[Rock_Hudstone]

Originally Posted By: Rockford Fosgate Fan
I have developed a leak around the oil pan and needs to be addressed. As a cheap fix to help slow this leak I was considering 50 wt VR1 oil.

Straight 50 wt. oil?

I'd try to slow down the leak with a heavy duty 15w40 diesel oil first. Down where you live it can be run year round and it's not super thick like the straight 50 wt. or 20w-50 oils.

 

[Camu Mahubah]

Why don't you try Maxlife? Seal conditioning agents in every bottle! Might stop the leak or at the very least slow it down. The esters should cause the seal to swell slightly. If it were me that is what I'd do first before running a straight 50w. The 50w will hurt fuel economy and cold starting.

 

[MGregoir]

50 weight is just asking for trouble...try 10W40 high mileage oil like MaxLife. You'll actually have oil that pumps when you start, it's thicker, and it has seal swell in it.

 

[Brett Miller]

I'd try Auto-Rx first or maybe Maxlife 10W-40. But I would never run 50wt.

 

[Drivebelt]

Try checking the pan bolts to see if they are tight. I've seen a couple of cases where the oil pan bolts loosen up over time and cause small leaks.

 

[Rockford Fosgate Fan]

Originally Posted By: Drivebelt
Try checking the pan bolts to see if they are tight. I've seen a couple of cases where the oil pan bolts loosen up over time and cause small leaks.


Because of the location of the bolts some cannot be tighten without moving major components. Basically by time you get to the point that you can tighten the bolts you might as well pull the pan.

 

[mechtech2]

1/4" drive sockets with U-joints may be able to get in there.
Standard 1/2" drive stuff won't.
That 50 W idea is not good, for a bunch of reasons.
[Yes, the car will still run.]
An optional fix for you may be to clean the outside surfaces where the leak is [really clean it dry], and use silicone RTV sealer goobed up and around it. Let it cure at least 1/2 day. It is NOT the best or the most professional solution, but can work well for only a few $.

 

[Ringe]

The oil pan gasket is a pretty big job on the 3.4. However, using a super-thick oil to deal with it seems like a foolish idea. The car calls for 5w30, just for reference. Why are you even using 10w30? Do you think it lubricates better or something?

 

[Ringe]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
1/4" drive sockets with U-joints may be able to get in there.
Standard 1/2" drive stuff won't.
That 50 W idea is not good, for a bunch of reasons.
[Yes, the car will still run.]
An optional fix for you may be to clean the outside surfaces where the leak is [really clean it dry], and use silicone RTV sealer goobed up and around it. Let it cure at least 1/2 day. It is NOT the best or the most professional solution, but can work well for only a few $.



The leak comes mostly from the main cap areas. You can get at the front one readily, but the rear is nearly impossible.

 

[Rockford Fosgate Fan]

Originally Posted By: Ringe
The oil pan gasket is a pretty big job on the 3.4. However, using a super-thick oil to deal with it seems like a foolish idea. The car calls for 5w30, just for reference. Why are you even using 10w30? Do you think it lubricates better or something?


Cause I know how to read the service manual. Their is no reason to run a 5w30 oil in a GM V6 while living in the south.

 

[Ringe]

Originally Posted By: Rockford Fosgate Fan
Originally Posted By: Ringe
The oil pan gasket is a pretty big job on the 3.4. However, using a super-thick oil to deal with it seems like a foolish idea. The car calls for 5w30, just for reference. Why are you even using 10w30? Do you think it lubricates better or something?


Cause I know how to read the service manual. Their is no reason to run a 5w30 oil in a GM V6 while living in the south.


Besides the fact that GM recommends it for all climates?

It also says not to use 20w-50 or any other non-recommended viscosity...straight from GM Dealerworld's Service Information.

 

[Ringe]

That info was taken specifically from lubricant specs for the 2003 Aztek 3.4L V6.

You should read this essay by A.E Haas, it's eye-opening: Oil 101

 

[aquariuscsm]

Never mind my post.............you have a different engine.

 

[Ringe]

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Never mind my post.............you have a different engine.


I was going to say...

 

[Rockford Fosgate Fan]

Like I said before the temperature this far south might drop below zero degree Celsius only a few times a year. I promise you if I pour 20w-50 in the crank case the pump will pull it from the pan and it will flow through it engine. I know I'm trying to be cheap here but I purchased this vehicle to just make it through college so I want to invest as little money as possible into this worthless product from General Motors.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Originally Posted By: Ringe
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Never mind my post.............you have a different engine.


I was going to say...

Aw man! I didn`t delete my second post fast enough! Heehee!

 

[Ringe]

Originally Posted By: Rockford Fosgate Fan
Like I said before the temperature this far south might drop below zero degree Celsius only a few times a year. I promise you if I pour 20w-50 in the crank case the pump will pull it from the pan and it will flow through it engine. I know I'm trying to be cheap here but I purchased this vehicle to just make it through college so I want to invest as little money as possible into this worthless product from General Motors.


If you're just trying to save money and make it through college then just use the recommended viscosity and keep the fluid level good. An oil pan gasket leak isn't going to cause catastrophic engine failure anyway, and being so anal about a leak that you deliberately use a nonsensical viscosity in your motor is a surefire way to end up wasting money that could otherwise put you through school.

 

[Ringe]

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: Ringe
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Never mind my post.............you have a different engine.


I was going to say...

Aw man! I didn`t delete my second post fast enough! Heehee!

Sorry!