You would think that ordering Rotors and Calipers would be pretty straight forward. I ordered new rotors from Rock-Auto for my 2003 4runner that has 17 inch wheels on it. Well, when the rotors came...guess what. They were too big. Why you ask....well my 4runner came from the factory with 16 inch wheels and the dealer upgraded the wheels to 17 inch. I would have never thought to look for that one. Sure enough the Toyota sticker in the door jam has the specs for 16" wheels. And...to compound the issue....my left caliper is stuck and will have to replaced. At least I know to order one for the 16" wheels. Anyway...I thought I would share this little experience in case it helps someone else.
Rotors, Calipers and Issues
- Thread starter Dagwood
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When you least suspect it, issues like this bite you in the back end. Welcome to the club. It happens to the pros too.
Is your caliper piston stuck or do the slide pins just need to be cleaned and lubed?
Some believe that you should replace calipers in pairs to maintain even braking - maybe not an issue with ABS. Rebuilt calipers are a less expensive option. NAPA and CarQuest seem to be good (my experience).
Thabnks for sharing and good luck.
Is your caliper piston stuck or do the slide pins just need to be cleaned and lubed?
Some believe that you should replace calipers in pairs to maintain even braking - maybe not an issue with ABS. Rebuilt calipers are a less expensive option. NAPA and CarQuest seem to be good (my experience).
Thabnks for sharing and good luck.
Caliper pistons are stuck on the inboard side. Same thing happened on the right side, but the dealer took care of that one. I was able to slide the new pads on, but the wheel is binding up against the pad and not spinning freely. I could not force the caliper pistons to retract. Only $75 for a new one. Not too bad really. When the dealer replaced the one one on the other side, I was charged well over $400. I guess you can see why I am motivated to do the work myself.
You can buy a rebuild kit for the stuck caliper for $10-$15. Maybe another $10 for a hone if you do not have one. Most of a caliper is a big chunk of steel. I think you can buy the piston also if its pitted.
Remanufactured is within a few dollars of kit and has WARRANTY! Caliper is not only reason for sticking brakes. In my shop I see atleast as many bad (restricted) flexable brake hoses as bad calipers. If hose has any type metal wrap around bracket,attachment assembly, highly likely it's hose instead of caliper. EASY check, when brake is dragging, loosen bleeder to allow pressure letoff. If drag continues, caliper is bad, if drag decreases hose is bad. Worth a try.
Bob
Bob
Bob, Thanks for the tip. When I get some time this weekend I will give that a try. The right front caliper was bad about a year ago. I tried everything, but the pistons would not retract. This left side is now behaving the same way. Fortunately, my son is away at school and I can drive his for a while.
Pete
Pete
When I get rotors and pads for my 1987 Volvo 740, I need to specify not only the make and model of the car but of the calipers themselves (Bendix vs Ate).Then I must specify integral bearing/hub or separate. Don't ask about u-joints...
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