Rotor change

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hello,

how often should i change my rotors? my car is 2 years old with 50k miles. im changing all 4 brake pads and the fluid this weekend, and was wondering if i should change out the rotors as well?

Thanks!
 
If they aren't warped (feel pulsing when you brake) and they aren't thinner than minimum spec (you'll need a micrometer) and they're still shiny with no deep grooves, the rotors are still good to go.

There is no hard and fast rule.

GM cars seem to need rotors more than most other makes though.
 
quote:

Originally posted by eljefino:
GM cars seem to need rotors more than most other makes though.

No, I think you mean Ford rotors
lol.gif
!
 
Every time you replace the pads you should have the rotor's machined, until you reach the minimum thickness then replace the rotor.
 
I'm still on my original rotors without having them turned. I'm currently at 158K+ miles and on my 4th set of front pads. Still no pulsing from the brakes and stopping is still straight and true.

Put me in the "turn them only when it is needed" camp.
 
For the difference in price between turning them and replaceing them, I'll replace them every time - if they need it. (pulsating or scored) and I have access to and can use a quality brake lathe for free if I wanted to.

Haven't had a turned rotor on any of the 8 vehicles I've owned and done the brakes on in the last 20 years...but I've not replaced them every time I changed the pads either.

For those who can't turn their own rotors, and are doing the rest of the work themselves, it is just that much more convenient and faster to slip on a new set rather than wait for the shop to turn them.

The other thing with a rotor that has been turned is that it seems to repeat the failure again only sooner - especially the pulsations - likely due to the decreased mass available to absorb and disipate the heat.

JD
 
I have had OEM and supposedly 'high quality' aftermarket rotors turned and they didn't last very long. Decent rotors do not cost very much and I just replace them. I've had supposedly 'cheap imported' rotors outlast expensive OEM rotors.
 
I guess that was my machine shop side talking. I suppose I should have expounded and said if you dont have severe scoring of more than say .050,don't have lateral runout of more than .002(which is easily checked using a dial indicator and would likely show up as pulsation)or dont have excessive corrosion/rust, then no you dont need the rotors machined.
I have found though after nearly 20 years that to not have at least one of those conditions is the exception rather than the rule.
 
... and minimum machining spec is not discard spec, which is as thin as a rotor can safely go.

Shady chain brake shops sometimes try to confuse the customer with one term vs the other.
 
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