The real question for me in this whole thing is whether or not the 10w30 will work in the winter time. It will probably get most of it's hours in the winter moving snow around.
Rotella or Amsoil in Tractor?
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Originally Posted By: Matchlight
Originally Posted By: daman
OP whats your OCI schedule? i didn't see it unless i missed it.
There unto lies the problem. It is said that the average consumer puts approximately 60 hours per year on to their lawn or garden tractor and I would be surprised if I put 100 hours a year on this thing. One of the previous posters mentioned that I run the T5 on 125 hour change intervals and I think the one year will come up befor the hours will. My wife and have a small gentleman's farm with a couple of horses. It will see use around the pasture with the front end loader and will be used as a lawn mower, typical harvey home owner sort of stuff. Now if I were a professional who was making my living with this machine, then the 600 hour change interval of the Amsoil would make perfect sense. Again, know all the virtues of synthetic and Amsoil, but is it worht it for what I am doing with it. Thanks for all of the replies, this has been a good discussion.
I know it's not the same thing but my home lawn mower gets roughly 60-80hrs a year use,i use amsoil's ACD and a P1 and do three + years on that oil and it's still new looking at drain time,oil is good now days it can go longer then a year,run a cheaper oil and drain it every other year. i really think the 10w30 will work fine in the winter i'm sure you keep the unit inside? that makes a big difference in starting.
The T5 is a semi synthetic,it'll flow fine.
Originally Posted By: daman
OP whats your OCI schedule? i didn't see it unless i missed it.
There unto lies the problem. It is said that the average consumer puts approximately 60 hours per year on to their lawn or garden tractor and I would be surprised if I put 100 hours a year on this thing. One of the previous posters mentioned that I run the T5 on 125 hour change intervals and I think the one year will come up befor the hours will. My wife and have a small gentleman's farm with a couple of horses. It will see use around the pasture with the front end loader and will be used as a lawn mower, typical harvey home owner sort of stuff. Now if I were a professional who was making my living with this machine, then the 600 hour change interval of the Amsoil would make perfect sense. Again, know all the virtues of synthetic and Amsoil, but is it worht it for what I am doing with it. Thanks for all of the replies, this has been a good discussion.
I know it's not the same thing but my home lawn mower gets roughly 60-80hrs a year use,i use amsoil's ACD and a P1 and do three + years on that oil and it's still new looking at drain time,oil is good now days it can go longer then a year,run a cheaper oil and drain it every other year. i really think the 10w30 will work fine in the winter i'm sure you keep the unit inside? that makes a big difference in starting.
The T5 is a semi synthetic,it'll flow fine.
Originally Posted By: Matchlight
The real question for me in this whole thing is whether or not the 10w30 will work in the winter time. It will probably get most of it's hours in the winter moving snow around.
That's a true beauty of a true synthetic good low temp flows even in a 10W-XX.
The real question for me in this whole thing is whether or not the 10w30 will work in the winter time. It will probably get most of it's hours in the winter moving snow around.
That's a true beauty of a true synthetic good low temp flows even in a 10W-XX.
Does that tractor have glow plugs? Does it live in a barn with electricity and provisions for a block heater?
What's the coldest it snows? 10'F? It gets colder, sure, but often too dry for snow.
My FIL has a Cub Cadet diesel tractor and it'll crank over just fine even if the fuel has gelled. I'm sure he uses cheap junk oil.
What's the coldest it snows? 10'F? It gets colder, sure, but often too dry for snow.
My FIL has a Cub Cadet diesel tractor and it'll crank over just fine even if the fuel has gelled. I'm sure he uses cheap junk oil.
Couple of key points using ACD
•Three times (3X) OEM* recommendation, not to exceed 50,000 miles/600 hours or one year , whichever comes first. Drain intervals may be extended further with oil analysis.
•Three times (3X) OEM* recommendation, not to exceed 50,000 miles/600 hours or one year , whichever comes first. Drain intervals may be extended further with oil analysis.
dnewton3
Staff member
Any dino 10w30 HDEO will work well in the temps and type service you are putting forth.
As I mentioned, I run Rotella dino 10w30 in my Kubota, and I am currently on a two year OCI. I use mine for summer mowing and farm work, as well as winter snow plowing. I also use that same oil in my Dmax, for winter driving and all summer long in heavy towing of a travel trailer. I have UOAs posted you can review.
No matter where you're at in NH (according to weather.com; I looked at Concord and Newport to cover your state) your average hi's and low's are not so extreme that you need synthetics. Your temps are not any more severe than mine in the Midwest. 10w30 dino HDEO is perfectly suited as an all around fluid for your application.
Sir, you may "want" synthetics, but you don't "need" them, given what you've told us about your use, area and OCI factors. If you cannot abide by a dino (even though it's perfectly fine for your use) then try the T5 in 10w30. If you cannot find that makes you sleep well at night, then you are likely a synthetic junkie at heart and no amount of intervention is going to convince you.
As I mentioned, I run Rotella dino 10w30 in my Kubota, and I am currently on a two year OCI. I use mine for summer mowing and farm work, as well as winter snow plowing. I also use that same oil in my Dmax, for winter driving and all summer long in heavy towing of a travel trailer. I have UOAs posted you can review.
No matter where you're at in NH (according to weather.com; I looked at Concord and Newport to cover your state) your average hi's and low's are not so extreme that you need synthetics. Your temps are not any more severe than mine in the Midwest. 10w30 dino HDEO is perfectly suited as an all around fluid for your application.
Sir, you may "want" synthetics, but you don't "need" them, given what you've told us about your use, area and OCI factors. If you cannot abide by a dino (even though it's perfectly fine for your use) then try the T5 in 10w30. If you cannot find that makes you sleep well at night, then you are likely a synthetic junkie at heart and no amount of intervention is going to convince you.
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Just remember "10W" is a minimum and 10w30 consists of ranges. Not all 10w30's will have the same low temp flow properties. A true synthetic 10w30 will likely have better cold temp flow properties. I cannot, absolutely, say this is necessary in all cases (I openly admit) any more than one can claim it's not necessary at all. (Hence the slightly derisive attitude given to synthetic users by a moderator)
I do think full synthetic base oils are more suitable for extended drains than conventional base oils.
I do think full synthetic base oils are more suitable for extended drains than conventional base oils.
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Sir, you may "want" synthetics, but you don't "need" them, given what you've told us about your use, area and OCI factors. If you cannot abide by a dino (even though it's perfectly fine for your use) then try the T5 in 10w30. If you cannot find that makes you sleep well at night, then you are likely a synthetic junkie at heart and no amount of intervention is going to convince you.
Synthetic junkie? Well, maybe a little. I have an '08 Chevy 2500HD pick-up and a '90 Corvette that both run M1 5w30. I run it in the truck because the oil life monitor will go past 6000 miles before it signals for an oil change. From what I had read around this forum the practical limit for dino oil in a gas engine is 4000 miles before the additive package starts to break down. Extended OCI's are nice too, lets face it. I run it in the 'vette, well, because its a 'vette. I've done some racing with it and am trying to squeeze a little extra power out of it, fuel economy, etc. I used to run Redline in it, but when that jumped from $8 to $9/quart, that was the end of that. I couldn't justify it any longer, switched to M1. I miss the Redline though, great stuff! Running wally world special (Supertech) 5w-20 in a high mileage '06 Accord, because I really don't care that much about it. All the lawn and garden equipment gets dino except for the new snow blower, the manual is calling for 5w30 synthetic but I haven't decide yet. I really only run synthetic where I can justify it. Which brings me back to the Kubbie. Its new to me and not sure how it is going to behave in cold temperatures, although you folks have helped to ease my troubled mind. The reason that I picked Rotella T5 is because that was the only 10w30 HDEO on the shelf at wally world when I went in, $16/gal. The price of the Amsoil 3000 series scared the heck out of me and made me question if 5w30 HDEO was really necessary in my climate. Its settled though, Kubbie gets T5 and no better. I may have the shakes for little while, but the fact that T5 is a synthetic blend will help with the synthetic withdrawls.
Sir, you may "want" synthetics, but you don't "need" them, given what you've told us about your use, area and OCI factors. If you cannot abide by a dino (even though it's perfectly fine for your use) then try the T5 in 10w30. If you cannot find that makes you sleep well at night, then you are likely a synthetic junkie at heart and no amount of intervention is going to convince you.
Synthetic junkie? Well, maybe a little. I have an '08 Chevy 2500HD pick-up and a '90 Corvette that both run M1 5w30. I run it in the truck because the oil life monitor will go past 6000 miles before it signals for an oil change. From what I had read around this forum the practical limit for dino oil in a gas engine is 4000 miles before the additive package starts to break down. Extended OCI's are nice too, lets face it. I run it in the 'vette, well, because its a 'vette. I've done some racing with it and am trying to squeeze a little extra power out of it, fuel economy, etc. I used to run Redline in it, but when that jumped from $8 to $9/quart, that was the end of that. I couldn't justify it any longer, switched to M1. I miss the Redline though, great stuff! Running wally world special (Supertech) 5w-20 in a high mileage '06 Accord, because I really don't care that much about it. All the lawn and garden equipment gets dino except for the new snow blower, the manual is calling for 5w30 synthetic but I haven't decide yet. I really only run synthetic where I can justify it. Which brings me back to the Kubbie. Its new to me and not sure how it is going to behave in cold temperatures, although you folks have helped to ease my troubled mind. The reason that I picked Rotella T5 is because that was the only 10w30 HDEO on the shelf at wally world when I went in, $16/gal. The price of the Amsoil 3000 series scared the heck out of me and made me question if 5w30 HDEO was really necessary in my climate. Its settled though, Kubbie gets T5 and no better. I may have the shakes for little while, but the fact that T5 is a synthetic blend will help with the synthetic withdrawls.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Does that tractor have glow plugs? Does it live in a barn with electricity and provisions for a block heater?
What's the coldest it snows? 10'F? It gets colder, sure, but often too dry for snow.
My FIL has a Cub Cadet diesel tractor and it'll crank over just fine even if the fuel has gelled. I'm sure he uses cheap junk oil.
Yes it glow plugs, will live inside during the winter and have ready access to electrical receptbacles for a block heater. You're right about the temperature vs. snow, about the same over here as it is where you are, unless you live in "The County". I'm actually a mainiac myself, just live over here.
Does that tractor have glow plugs? Does it live in a barn with electricity and provisions for a block heater?
What's the coldest it snows? 10'F? It gets colder, sure, but often too dry for snow.
My FIL has a Cub Cadet diesel tractor and it'll crank over just fine even if the fuel has gelled. I'm sure he uses cheap junk oil.
Yes it glow plugs, will live inside during the winter and have ready access to electrical receptbacles for a block heater. You're right about the temperature vs. snow, about the same over here as it is where you are, unless you live in "The County". I'm actually a mainiac myself, just live over here.
Originally Posted By: Pablo
I do think full synthetic base oils are more suitable for extended drains than conventional base oils.
Hey, Pablo, as an aside, I finally found a regular Amsoil user up here, and they actually use the product the way its intended. They have diesel trucks and extend the OCIs appropriately and actually make it work to save themselves money. They do extensive highway driving, so they can really ramp out those OCIs. By the way, his wife does all the oil changes, to boot, and she used to drive semi!
I do think full synthetic base oils are more suitable for extended drains than conventional base oils.
Hey, Pablo, as an aside, I finally found a regular Amsoil user up here, and they actually use the product the way its intended. They have diesel trucks and extend the OCIs appropriately and actually make it work to save themselves money. They do extensive highway driving, so they can really ramp out those OCIs. By the way, his wife does all the oil changes, to boot, and she used to drive semi!
dnewton3
Staff member
1) it just ain't that cold up there folks, and a dino 10w30 will do fine. I can personally attest to that because my Kubie works just fine. When my time is up on my OCI, I'll post my UOA as continued proof.
2) If the Kubie is in proper working condition, it really won't care what oil is used as long as it's a decent HDEO. Those little engines are known to be nearly indestructible. If you all saw how terribly these engines were treated in third world countries, you'd not worry about your "normal" use with decent oil
3) Synthetics definitely buy you longer OCIs; I agree with that. They are fantastic for this use.
4) Rather than play a bunch of "what if" games, why not run a few OCIs with each and tell us which is better for you, rather than ask us?
2) If the Kubie is in proper working condition, it really won't care what oil is used as long as it's a decent HDEO. Those little engines are known to be nearly indestructible. If you all saw how terribly these engines were treated in third world countries, you'd not worry about your "normal" use with decent oil
3) Synthetics definitely buy you longer OCIs; I agree with that. They are fantastic for this use.
4) Rather than play a bunch of "what if" games, why not run a few OCIs with each and tell us which is better for you, rather than ask us?
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Originally Posted By: dnewton3
4) Rather than play a bunch of "what if" games, why not run a few OCIs with each and tell us which is better for you, rather than ask us?
Hey Boss, its all good. I'm not sure who you are directing this at, but no "what if" games here. I thought this was a very good discussion and I appreciate everyone's input. All of my questions were answered and concerns laid to rest, whatever 10w30 HDEO available at wally world for this cat.
4) Rather than play a bunch of "what if" games, why not run a few OCIs with each and tell us which is better for you, rather than ask us?
Hey Boss, its all good. I'm not sure who you are directing this at, but no "what if" games here. I thought this was a very good discussion and I appreciate everyone's input. All of my questions were answered and concerns laid to rest, whatever 10w30 HDEO available at wally world for this cat.
dnewton3
Staff member
Sorry - no offense meant. My apologies if it came off too strong.
My point is that often we BITOGers get into "what if" scenarios (myself included).
I come off so very often as being anti-synthethic, but nothing could be further from the truth. I do run synthetics in many things. But I don't see them as a "one size fits all" solution to every application. The main benefit from syn's is the extended drain interval. If you're not into that, you will be just as well protected by dinos for far less cost.
My final point #4 from above was simply a challenge. Why ask when you can tell! Don't get mired down in a debate. Run some rudementary experiments at home, do some UOAs and tell us how they went!
I think you'll find your decision is a good one. But I'd ask that you post up UOAs so the rest of us can see your application and how it actually plays out.
My point is that often we BITOGers get into "what if" scenarios (myself included).
I come off so very often as being anti-synthethic, but nothing could be further from the truth. I do run synthetics in many things. But I don't see them as a "one size fits all" solution to every application. The main benefit from syn's is the extended drain interval. If you're not into that, you will be just as well protected by dinos for far less cost.
My final point #4 from above was simply a challenge. Why ask when you can tell! Don't get mired down in a debate. Run some rudementary experiments at home, do some UOAs and tell us how they went!
I think you'll find your decision is a good one. But I'd ask that you post up UOAs so the rest of us can see your application and how it actually plays out.
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I see your point, and will try to figure out how to do the testing. Good on 'ya!
I run rotella 15w40 in my International compact tractor during the winter. It is an older tractor probably from the 70s or 80s. I have no problems starting it with this weight oil in the winter, just have to heat up the glow plugs for a minute.
In your tractor I would think you're probably putting less than 100hrs on it per year. I see no reason to run synthetic on something getting that few hours yearly.
I would still change the oil at minimum yearly because of the risk of moisture and condensation in the oil from the seasonal temperature changes and starting and stopping the engine in the cold.
In the end I think you'd be fine with either the Rotella or the Amsoil, but if it were me I would likely run the Rotella.
In your tractor I would think you're probably putting less than 100hrs on it per year. I see no reason to run synthetic on something getting that few hours yearly.
I would still change the oil at minimum yearly because of the risk of moisture and condensation in the oil from the seasonal temperature changes and starting and stopping the engine in the cold.
In the end I think you'd be fine with either the Rotella or the Amsoil, but if it were me I would likely run the Rotella.
Originally Posted By: offroadrider12
, but if it were me I would likely run the Rotella.
I'm thinking that I am with you.
, but if it were me I would likely run the Rotella.
I'm thinking that I am with you.
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