rethinking original plan for new tundra

[2005tundra2002yz250f]

Original plan was:
1. Change factory fill at 1500 miles, which I did with 10w30 dino.
2. Change oil at 3000 miles, just about to now. Again will use 10w30 dino
3. Change oil to Mobil 1 synthetic at 5000 miles and start going 5000 OCI's.

But now with what I'm reading about wear metals in a new engine for thousands of miles, depending on brand(Honda, toyota, etc), I'm second guessing myself. Would it be better to keep short OCI's until I get to 10-15000 miles, which is the time I'm estimating the wear metals to stop appearing elevated. Or is it not a big deal to run 5000 miles with higher wear metals in the oil? I'm also concerned that a lot of people see elevated iron in Mobil 1 regardless of mileage. So what does everyone think?
This is an 05 Tundra with the 4.7 8 cyl.
Thanks,
Joe

 

[KW]

Seems like a sound plan to me. Do a UOA at the 5K mark on the second OCI of M1 and see if you can stretch it out to maybe 7500 or longer.

 

[2005tundra2002yz250f]

quote:

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Originally posted by KW:
Seems like a sound plan to me. Do a UOA at the 5K mark on the second OCI of M1 and see if you can stretch it out to maybe 7500 or longer.

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So no concern over the high wear metals being in the oil for 5000 miles in synthetic vs 2000 miles in dino until I get up to 10000 miles? Wouldnt the high metal content do some harm, and it be better to keep flushing it out? If not, why? Do they not attribute to wear, or are they strictly a by-product of wear that has taken place? If its a by product, then I will go the 5000 oci starting at 5000 miles.
Thanks,
Joe
Thanks,
Joe

 

[KW]

At the end of the last 3000 mile OCI you will have 7500 miles on the motor. I don't think strething it out some from that point will be a problem. The rings should be seated and bedded well by then.

 

[unDummy]

What wear metals? You've already flushed it out at the 1500 mile mark.
Its a Toyota. Quit worrying. This engine will last forever.
Start your 5k OCI with Mobil-1 now.
Don't worry about all that breakin/mfg metals. You have an oil filter, don't you?

Visit the UOA section and search for the Toyota/Lexus V8 UOAs. 7.5k OCI's with Mobil-1 shouldn't be a problem.
I'd also not neglect all the other fluids that everyone forgets.

 

[oldman]

Agree with unDummy, I have a 2003 Tundra V6 and could not wait to get the original oil out and start with Mobil 1 5w30. Had a UOA done at 9k and posted here and all looks good. I have a MotorGuard bypass so I continue to do UOA's for the toyota guys if they ask. No problems, expect many miles out of the motor.

Changed the fluid in the front/rear diff and transfer case at 10k. Used Amsoil in all, and drained 4 quarts of ATF and added the ATF from toyota as recommended by another person on the forum. Works great.

 

[Whimsey]

For PEACE of mind keep with your first plan. You'll really clean out the wear-in metals and manufacturing crud by 5,000 miles with 3 oil changes using dino. The only comment I have is you're in NJ and winter has arrived. Unlesss 10w30 dino is spec'd for your engine in the winter I'd use 5w30 dino. When you go to Mobil 1 then the 10w30 should be ok even in the winter. Though in all honesty the Mobil 1 5w30 seems to be as stable as their 10w30. And you'll get the benefit of more rapid oil circulation for "cold" starts.

Whimsey

 

[Steve S]

Keep with the original plan and don't forget the diffs and the trans oils ,break in metal and dirt also.

 

[2005tundra2002yz250f]

quote:

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Originally posted by Steve S:
Keep with the original plan and don't forget the diffs and the trans oils ,break in metal and dirt also.

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Thanks for all the replies. I'm going to stick with my original plan, going synthetic at 5000 miles and 5000 miles OCI's. I know the engine will last forever either way, but I want to do the right thing and keep it as protrcted as possible. Out of curiousity, I would still like to know if the wear metals detected in UOA's on newer engines contribute to more wear on the engine while they are present in the oil, or if they are strictly a by-product of wear that has taken place and not harmful as they circulate. I'm talking about iron, copper, etc. I saw a comment about 10w30 in the winter. I know everyone says 5w30 in the winter, but Ive always used 10w30 and never had problems in any of my toyotas. It should be good to 0, and Ive never heard a kncok in any engines of mine. Hopefully with the more I read here, I will become open to the idea of a 5w30, but Ive been stuck on 10w30 for 14 years.
Thanks
Joe

 

[Whimsey]

quote:

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Originally posted by 2005tundra2002yz250f:

I saw a comment about 10w30 in the winter. I know everyone says 5w30 in the winter, but Ive always used 10w30 and never had problems in any of my toyotas. It should be good to 0, and Ive never heard a kncok in any engines of mine. Hopefully with the more I read here, I will become open to the idea of a 5w30, but Ive been stuck on 10w30 for 14 years.
Thanks
Joe

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You have a modern engine. What was a good oil for your previous engines isn't necessarily good for this engine. I had an "old" style pushrod 4.9L Ford L6 engine that requested 10w30 dino. Needless to say the cold starts in NJ winters were not pleasant

. Switched to GTX 5w30 for the winter's and it was much more merciful for the engine with cold starting. Eventually went to Mobil 1 10w30(the old formula) and cold starting was as quiet as 5w30 dino

. With the modern OHC engine you need to get the oil to the upper end as quickly as possible to limit start up wear. You still haven't said what oil Toyota recommends with that engine for winter climates. Today's emission controlled engines start at a high rpm to help fire off the cats. If you have a "slower" flowing oil you'll be be running "dry" at a high rpm during starts, ouch

.

Whimsey

 

[2005tundra2002yz250f]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Whimsey:

quote:

---

Originally posted by 2005tundra2002yz250f:

I saw a comment about 10w30 in the winter. I know everyone says 5w30 in the winter, but Ive always used 10w30 and never had problems in any of my toyotas. It should be good to 0, and Ive never heard a kncok in any engines of mine. Hopefully with the more I read here, I will become open to the idea of a 5w30, but Ive been stuck on 10w30 for 14 years.
Thanks
Joe

---

You have a modern engine. What was a good oil for your previous engines isn't necessarily good for this engine. I had an "old" style pushrod 4.9L Ford L6 engine that requested 10w30 dino. Needless to say the cold starts in NJ winters were not pleasant

. Switched to GTX 5w30 for the winter's and it was much more merciful for the engine with cold starting. Eventually went to Mobil 1 10w30(the old formula) and cold starting was as quiet as 5w30 dino

. With the modern OHC engine you need to get the oil to the upper end as quickly as possible to limit start up wear. You still haven't said what oil Toyota recommends with that engine for winter climates. Today's emission controlled engines start at a high rpm to help fire off the cats. If you have a "slower" flowing oil you'll be be running "dry" at a high rpm during starts, ouch

.

Whimsey

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Toyota states 5w30 year round, but 10w30 may be used as a substitute.
Joe

 

[doctormdds]

2005tundra2002yz250f,

Your original plan looks great. That Toyota engine will last longer than you want to keep the vehicle.