Repsol 10w-40 SynBlend; 1800mi; 2004 CBR1000RR

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Dec 27, 2004
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490
Location
Chicago, IL
Testing accomplished by Oil Analyzers Inc.
Code:
VEHICLE INFO SAMPLE DATA



Year: 2004 Date Installed: 4/03/2008

Make: Honda Date Sampled: 6/07/2008

Model: CBR 1000RR Time On Oil: 1800 mi

Transmission: 6-Speed Manual Time On Vehicle: 13550 mi



SPECTROCHEMICAL ANALYSIS PHYSICAL PROPERTIES



Fe 18 Fuel: 1.4%

Cr 0 Vis @ 40cst: N/A

Ni 0 Vis @ 100cst: 10.4 CRITICAL

Al 14 ABNORMAL Water:
Cu 4 Soots/Solids:
Pb 1 Coolant: N/A

Sn 0

Cd 0 ADDITIONAL TESTS

Ag 0

Ti 0 TBN: 8.29

V 0 TAN: N/A

Oxidation: 9

Si 12 Nitration: 11

Na 1

K 2



Mo 1

Sb 0

Mn 0

Li 0

B 4



Mg 44

Ca 1912

Ba 0

Ph 1089

Zn 1203
OAI Comments: Viscosity significantly low. Aluminum is at a moderate level; possible piston metal.
 
Not really sure what I can say about the sample. It sheared severely which is no surprise. Otherwise the wear metals look alright to me. Even the aluminum, which they flagged, seems ok.

Most of the time was spent on the highway driving at 4-5k rpm. Hard acceleration was minimal throughout the change interval. Overall the bike is driven respectfully.

I purchased this bike in January with about 11,500 miles on it. The previous owner claims he drove it in a non-abusive manner, and changed oil every 2k miles.

By the way, I apologize for the scrolling required to view the entire report.
 
Unless I'm reading the report wrong, you've got a fair amount of fuel in the oil. Not terrible, not great...

This can happen when you start the bike, run it for only 15 or 20 minutes, and shut it off (before it gets the oil hot enough to burn off the fuel).

That could explain the viscosity, I'm guessing.

I don't know what the universal averages are. Blackstone always gives the UAs. :) And Blackstone is a sponsor here. :) Try them next time...

And also try Rotella 15W40 truck oil next time. It's probably a better oil than what you used here, and it'll resist the fuel dilution a bit better too, I would think.

Silicone looks like it's up there... (not sure what's normal for this bike)... maybe a slight leak on the air filter assembly. Could explain the AL...

Dan
 
Originally Posted By: fuel tanker man
And also try Rotella 15W40 truck oil next time.

What? That's crazy talk, man!
wink.gif
 
I'm gonna live life on the edge and probably try out Rotella for the next OCI. Another batch of Repsol is in there now. I'll run it for about 1500 this time, test again, then try 15w40 Rotella. Maybe I will try Blackstone for a change...

The fuel seems to always be high with these bikes. I tested it right after a 1-hour ride on the highway too. It has brand new air filters in there, so I'll keep an eye on that Silicone. FP Plus was used, which I forgot to mention. Not that it really matters.
 
It would seem after 1 hour on the highway the fuel would evaporate..Do you have any fuel management software like a power commander on it or anything like that ? If so that can richen things up and explain a little...

I think you'll be happy with the Rotella...It will be interesting to see how it turns out...

Thanks for the report.
 
Honda doesn't seem to be concerned about either fuel dilution or oil shearing out of grade, they recommend 8000 mile oil changes, and further, on the new models specify 10w30 engine oils.
 
I REALLY want to see a UOA of an oil left in a bike for 8k. I know Yamaha recommends 4k oil and 8k filter changes for my YZF. I just don't see how it can last that long. In a car, sure. But in a bike? Come on...
 
Honda and other manufacturers also boast about Euro 3 emissions equipment like it is some sort of selling point to customers when in reality it causes more heat, weight, and a reduction in performance....
 
Originally Posted By: wantin150
I REALLY want to see a UOA of an oil left in a bike for 8k. I know Yamaha recommends 4k oil and 8k filter changes for my YZF. I just don't see how it can last that long. In a car, sure. But in a bike? Come on...



Ok, here you go. I have posted 8 or 10 8,000 mile UOAs from my Honda ST1100. Bike is running great now with 104,000 miles on it.
So, I would say that 8,000 mile OCIs are easy for a good oil in my bike.

Rick

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/max-life-10w40-8017-miles-honda-st1100.86027/
 
Very nice Rick. Not down playing your results by any means but how about 8k in a sport bike? That's my concern with my ride. I know that look isn't anything but the Lamalube (spelling intentional) I drained out of mine after 600 was aweful. Shifted like garbage too. I've got an MC oil in it now and will run it for a few more hundred and then go with Rotella. Just can't bring myself to go 8k though. 4k will be a stretch!
 
You’re right, it is hard to leave the oil in that long. I used to be a 3,000 mile guy, then I tried 5,000 but I really wanted to see if 8,000 is too much.
My bike probably isn’t too hard on oil but I think I have learned a few things. I feel that the HDEOs are an excellent bike oil, and returned better UOA results than the only bike-specific oil that I tested (Honda GN4 oil). I also noticed that the shearing occurred very early in the OCI and then stabilized for the rest of the 8,000 miles.
In fact, I think that the MCN oil tests showed that most of the shearing had occurred by 800 miles. I don’t see many high mileage UOAs for bikes but here is one for a Yamaha FZ700 with over 11,000 miles on the oil

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...rue#Post1010723


Rick
 
The numbers on that FZ700 looked pretty good. I'd take that! I guess the only real way to find out is to just do it. Once I get mine broken in really well, I'll start taking samples to see what it looks like. Thanks for those links!
 
I dont think fuel burns off that easly as I've see eluded to, I know I've ran motors 4 and 5 hour runs before testing and they still can show .5 to 1% fuel diution.

I dont think it burns off that easily
 
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