Replacing Oil Pan LS400

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Gebo

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I've got to replace the oil pan on my 1998 LS 400, I see where I can buy different gaskets but Toyota recommends some type of liquid gasket seal ( I have the exact part number at home) that will set up and harden.

I don't know which to do???? I'm looking for professional guidance.
 
Stick with the recommended liquid sealant if you don't want leaks. Cut gaskets can leak from both sides and can be awkward to hold in place while installing.
 
That pan does not use a gasket. It's just like my 92 Toyota pickup oil pan in that it has a grooved flange for the black goop. I need to re-seal my oil pan too some time soon, and the Toyota FIPG is what is recommended. The cork gaskets will work on the pans that have the flat flange, but don't use them on the grooved flange pans.
 
You are going to want to stick with Toyota FIPG seal packing https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-00295-00103-Formed-Place/dp/B000EDDTV0#customerReviews


Remove the old FIPG from both the upper oil pan & lower pan assemblies , make sure both surfaces are free of any oil before applying new seal packing. Also remove the old gasket material from the 10mm bolt threads & thread in the upper oil pan, and when reinstalling them start them off by hand, they can easily be cross threaded if you try to start them with a power tool. Also torque to the right specs, they can easily snap off if you over do it. If I remember correctly the torque spec for them is 66 in lbf.
 
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FIPG - Form In Place Gasket

Have seen youtube video where it was used ( I think , South Main Auto - Eric O. ? ) .

That is all I know about Toyota .
 
When I was a teenager , I was introduced to the black Permatex non-hardening sealant . I think it was Permatex # 2 ?

There is also " The Right Stuff " . Makes me wonder how all these differ .

Someone posted an Amazon link for a 3 oz tube of FIPG for $ 15 . That sounded pretty high / expensive . Especially , considering , if I try to use the tube for a 2nd project , it seems it is usually dried up / went hard . ( Same with adhesive and caulk . )
 
Originally Posted by WyrTwister
When I was a teenager , I was introduced to the black Permatex non-hardening sealant . I think it was Permatex # 2 ?

There is also " The Right Stuff " . Makes me wonder how all these differ .



After talking with the tech at Permatex, the read I get is that "The Right Stuff" is the go-to product for the pros because they can apply it, immediately bolt it up and put it into service. It does not require curing time. (Also, the density of the product is way more than any of the other "curing" products.) Strange but apparently true. They also charge more for it.
smile.gif
 
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Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
If you have trouble finding the stuff from Lexus, consider this. Permatex Optimum Black. Clean the pan and block really, really well.


And when you think you've got it nice and clean, hit it again with brake parts cleaner. Inadequate surface preparation is the #1 cause of FIPG leaks.
 
Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
They also charge more for it.
smile.gif



Getting your ride back into service right away will cost ya, otherwise use Ultra Black for about $5
 
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All Toyota oil pans are sealed with FIPG/RTV from the factory. The Toyota stuff is black, but the factory stuff is gray. Use the dealer stuff(made by ThreeBond) or Permatex Optimum Gray/Ultra Gray.
 
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
If you have trouble finding the stuff from Lexus, consider this. Permatex Optimum Black. Clean the pan and block really, really well.


And when you think you've got it nice and clean, hit it again with brake parts cleaner. Inadequate surface preparation is the #1 cause of FIPG leaks.

I can't agree with this enough.

Personally Permatex Right Stuff will work just fine. I use it exclusively and have NEVER had leaks.
 
The Permatex Right Stuff is apparently the same as Honda Ultra Flange II, which is equivalent to the Toyota FIPG. All three are very good products for sealing oil pans.
 
Well, I learnt something today. Thank your for all your suggestions. I'm gonna use the Toyota
Originally Posted by BigD1
That pan does not use a gasket. It's just like my 92 Toyota pickup oil pan in that it has a grooved flange for the black goop. I need to re-seal my oil pan too some time soon, and the Toyota FIPG is what is recommended. The cork gaskets will work on the pans that have the flat flange, but don't use them on the grooved flange pans.



You taught me something. Thanks!
 
Originally Posted by Tiir
You are going to want to stick with Toyota FIPG seal packing https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-00295-00103-Formed-Place/dp/B000EDDTV0#customerReviews


Remove the old FIPG from both the upper oil pan & lower pan assemblies , make sure both surfaces are free of any oil before applying new seal packing. Also remove the old gasket material from the 10mm bolt threads & thread in the upper oil pan, and when reinstalling them start them off by hand, they can easily be cross threaded if you try to start them with a power tool. Also torque to the right specs, they can easily snap off if you over do it. If I remember correctly the torque spec for them is 66 in lbf.



Great advice! Thanks!
 
I have been Googling for the torque spec and have found 65 in lbft and 80 inch lbft. I would not be concerned if were using a regular gasket but want to be accurate with this goopy stuff. Any Direction?
 
Originally Posted by atikovi
I'm surprised how no one has gone off about how much they hate the RTV gaskets like on a previous thread.


I was on that thread defending RTV and boy did I get an earful!...‚

Originally Posted by kschachn
The Permatex Right Stuff is apparently the same as Honda Ultra Flange II, which is equivalent to the Toyota FIPG. All three are very good products for sealing oil pans.


I've not used that yet but I could see needing to if I didn't have the luxury of being able to let the regular stuff set for 24hrs.
 
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