Replacement PCM

[AJB0009]

It is a very long story, but I am thinking I may need to replace the PCM in my 2004 Ford Explorer. Does anyone have experience or know where a good quality reman unit could be purchased from?
Over the years, Ford has had some updates for the throttle by wire system (which 04 was the first year of for this model) and perhaps other upgrades as well. I would be concerned that if I were to purchase a reman unit from someone, that it have the latest, greatest updates.
Also, what about keys being programmed to work? Would it have to go to a stealership for that? Or, could you just have that feature bypassed somehow? (I’m not really concerned about someone stealing my 20 year old Explorer).

 

[Timmastertech]

In my shop that would likely get a used PCM versus a reman because I trust a used one more than a reman. As far as programming goes, no it does not have to go to the dealership but it needs to go to someone versed in Ford programming

 

[GMBoy]

You can go get a used one and reflash it or grab a reman from flashmasters or similar outfit aready programmed to your VIN. I do both ways and flashmasters has been very good when I needed a new one or one of mine repaired.

 

[Exhaustgases]

Used PCM could have the leaky capacitor issues, reman always a toss of the dice too.
This is why I can't stand electronics that can make a modern car pretty much worthless.

 

[someonesomewhere]

Used PCM could have the leaky capacitor issues, reman always a toss of the dice too.
This is why I can't stand electronics that can make a modern car pretty much worthless.

Got it you only like OG Model Ts. Lol

 

[Dadillac]

2004 Ford Explorer PCM | ECM | ECU | 4.0L | VIN Programmed & Updated

Engine Computer fitting all 2004 Ford Explorer 4.0L models. Compatibility will vary for these units, please review the list below to ensure it will fit your vehicle.

www.fs1inc.com

I have used this place once for a 2007 Jeep Compass. Plug and play. No issues at all. I recommend them

Don

 

[bdcardinal]

Some of these you have to have 2 unique (not cloned at a hardware store) working keys to program a new PCM.

 

[Exhaustgases]

Got it you only like OG Model Ts. Lol

Naa don't like the styling and not a ford fanatic either. Maybe a few of the 50's models though.

 

[Dave9]

If you need to replace the PCM, then that's that, but I should mention that often someone comes to the determination to replace one, simply because they couldn't find the real fault. After a certain model year when they moved to coil on plug and had the coil driver transistors in the PCB, it became more common for them to fail, but before then, I'd bet I've seen as many misdiagnosis leading to PCM replacement, as I've seen PCMs needing replaced. Just sayin', I'd double check before jumping through the PCM replacement hoop.

I'd get a used one from a junkyard, from a build as similar to yours as possible, especially same engine and nearly same model year which generally implies same tranny too. While there is a small chance of bad capacitors, that is up to you to weigh the importance of. As someone who can solder, I'd much much rather swap a capacitor or two, instead of forking out hundreds of dollars for a new PCM, and still needing that programmed.

So anyway, I'd get the closest match PCM I could find, install and see if it seems to operate properly before assuming programming is needed, but you can program in keys with Forscan windows app and a free trial extended license, using an inexpensive ELM327 based OBD2 dongle.

There is no way to bypass the PATS security if your keys don't work, other than having the PCM reflashed with firmware that does away with it. You might be able to find a service that does both, flashes a PCM to your build, and does it with a modded firmware to get rid of PATS, but personally, I would keep PATS. You might think that nobody would want to steal the vehicle but some crackhead kids just looking for a ride, they will take whatever is easy to steal, and may even target older vehicles thinking they don't have any security against that. Heh, in a way, security is more important to me on an older vehicle because if not a classic so it is low value, I drop comprehensive insurance so I'm out a lot more if it does get stolen.

 

[AJB0009]

If you need to replace the PCM, then that's that, but I should mention that often someone comes to the determination to replace one, simply because they couldn't find the real fault. After a certain model year when they moved to coil on plug and had the coil driver transistors in the PCB, it became more common for them to fail, but before then, I'd bet I've seen as many misdiagnosis leading to PCM replacement, as I've seen PCMs needing replaced. Just sayin', I'd double check before jumping through the PCM replacement hoop.

I'd get a used one from a junkyard, from a build as similar to yours as possible, especially same engine and nearly same model year which generally implies same tranny too. While there is a small chance of bad capacitors, that is up to you to weigh the importance of. As someone who can solder, I'd much much rather swap a capacitor or two, instead of forking out hundreds of dollars for a new PCM, and still needing that programmed.

So anyway, I'd get the closest match PCM I could find, install and see if it seems to operate properly before assuming programming is needed, but you can program in keys with Forscan windows app and a free trial extended license, using an inexpensive ELM327 based OBD2 dongle.

There is no way to bypass the PATS security if your keys don't work, other than having the PCM reflashed with firmware that does away with it. You might be able to find a service that does both, flashes a PCM to your build, and does it with a modded firmware to get rid of PATS, but personally, I would keep PATS. You might think that nobody would want to steal the vehicle but some crackhead kids just looking for a ride, they will take whatever is easy to steal, and may even target older vehicles thinking they don't have any security against that. Heh, in a way, security is more important to me on an older vehicle because if not a classic so it is low value, I drop comprehensive insurance so I'm out a lot more if it does get stolen.

Thank you for your response, I appreciate it. Good stuff.
I could literally write a book with what I have been through with this vehicle. I have been trying to nail down the root cause of one particular symptom for years. When it is hot outside and the engine is hot, it will buck and jerk under load. A good friend and I have done hours of troubleshooting (mapping fuel trims with his high-end scanner, etc.). I have thrown a few parts at it (coil pack, crank position sensor, etc.). I have chatted with highly regarded experts (engine and transmission). My friend and I have spent countless hours on-line researching. Got nowhere. On one hand, the PCM is the only thing left. Yet, just recently, I feel more confident than ever that it is the PCM. The PCM is bolted to the firewall. The hotter it gets in the engine compartment, the worse the symptoms get. Also, the symptoms get much worse if the A/C is on vs being off (different programming). Now that I have started doing a little research on PCM replacement, I have found some other Explorers with the same symptom that replaced their PCM.
~
Several people have told me to get a used one vs reman. I am fine with that, but my only concern is I know that mine has had the TSB 05-14-4 done to it. If I get a used PCM, my odds are, what, maybe 50/50 that it has been done on that one? If not, I will have probably drop $150 or $200 at the stealership to have the firmware updated.
The reman place claims that all the latest and greatest updates have been done. I really don't know which way to go.

 

[Dave9]

^ Can't really help you decide. Yes it's a gamble, potentially saving a lot up front, then the used PCM may or may not need programmed, and if not (was similar enough vehicle), either may have the TSB applied, or may work without it applied. All I can really speculate is that "probably", the vehicle did not have the issue when it went to the junkyard, as the owner would have likely had that fixed if it had popped up, considering it wasn't a very expensive repair compared to practically anything else you could have fixed at a shop.

Another option is compare the different in cost to buy the used PCM, try it as-is, and if there is a problem you can track to firmware issues, then send it somewhere that flashes the updated vehicle specific firmware, then you only have to spend that additional money if it turns out that is needed.

Since I wasn't there for the vehicle testing phase, I have to defer to the experience the two of you had while working and observing the scan tool. Were there misfires on both banks or isolated to one or even just one cylinder? I didn't see any mention of fuel pressure, or changing spark plugs and wires. Just seems odd that if the PCM is going out, that it waits till hot but then consistently returns to proper operation when not hot?

 

[AJB0009]

^ Can't really help you decide. Yes it's a gamble, potentially saving a lot up front, then the used PCM may or may not need programmed, and if not (was similar enough vehicle), either may have the TSB applied, or may work without it applied. All I can really speculate is that "probably", the vehicle did not have the issue when it went to the junkyard, as the owner would have likely had that fixed if it had popped up, considering it wasn't a very expensive repair compared to practically anything else you could have fixed at a shop.

Another option is compare the different in cost to buy the used PCM, try it as-is, and if there is a problem you can track to firmware issues, then send it somewhere that flashes the updated vehicle specific firmware, then you only have to spend that additional money if it turns out that is needed.

Since I wasn't there for the vehicle testing phase, I have to defer to the experience the two of you had while working and observing the scan tool. Were there misfires on both banks or isolated to one or even just one cylinder? I didn't see any mention of fuel pressure, or changing spark plugs and wires. Just seems odd that if the PCM is going out, that it waits till hot but then consistently returns to proper operation when not hot?

I have been trying, hard, to keep my posts as short as possible. Really, I could fill the BITOG servers with what I have done on this thing over the last six years. When I say there is nothing left but the PCM, I mean it. There is no misfire. A wrench light comes on. That was new for this year along with the throttle by wire. The wrench light is only for the throttle body, crank position, cam position, etc. One of the codes that it will throw if the jerking gets bad enough is PCM failure. I kind of ignored that for a while, thinking "well, that doesn't make sense, it is still running fine, obviously the PCM has not failed". I think I have been working on this for about two or three years now. It is out of the ordinary to say the least. I can't even remember all that we have mapped out; fuel trims, commanded vs actual on throttle, EGR, etc. Plugs twice, coil pack, wires, fuel; you name it. I have chatted with Brian from FordTechMakuloco of YT fame. I have chatted with tech support at Sonnax Transmission, whom are highly regarded on Explorer Forum.
Again, I appreciate your time and input. More and more, I learn to keep an open mind and welcome and appreciate thoughts, ideas, suggestions, etc.

 

[Olds394]

Sia Electronics in Tilden, IL.
My ‘07 Ford Ranger ecu/pcm froze up while installing a new lock cylinder. (Vandalism)
They found nothing wrong and just rebooted it.
They were honest in telling me mine was still good and charged me a $75 fee.
It was frustrating because no dealer would touch it, couldn’t find a local shop to fix it, and no body shop would take a tow-in.

 

[Bladecutter]

I have thrown a few parts at it (coil pack, crank position sensor, etc.).

The parts that you have thrown at it so far...
Are they OEM, or aftermarket Amazon / eBay specials?

I can't tell you how many issues are caused by mixing aftermarket parts into an ignition system.

 

[AJB0009]

The parts that you have thrown at it so far...
Are they OEM, or aftermarket Amazon / eBay specials?

I can't tell you how many issues are caused by mixing aftermarket parts into an ignition system.

Agreed. Everything is OEM (from my local stealership) except the EGR valve (was a huge price difference) (BWD from Advance went on). I also put in a Fram Ultra air filter.
Through troubleshooting, the EGR valve was deemed to be functioning correctly.

 

[AJB0009]

Sia Electronics in Tilden, IL.
My ‘07 Ford Ranger ecu/pcm froze up while installing a new lock cylinder. (Vandalism)
They found nothing wrong and just rebooted it.
They were honest in telling me mine was still good and charged me a $75 fee.
It was frustrating because no dealer would touch it, couldn’t find a local shop to fix it, and no body shop would take a tow-in.

I have reached out to them via e-mail a day and a half ago, have not heard back yet.

 

[dfarr67]

I remember back in the early days of EFI- ecu's were changed like toilette paper- and not because they went bad.

 

[Gus_Mahn]

Sia Electronics in Tilden, IL.
My ‘07 Ford Ranger ecu/pcm froze up while installing a new lock cylinder. (Vandalism)
They found nothing wrong and just rebooted it.
They were honest in telling me mine was still good and charged me a $75 fee.
It was frustrating because no dealer would touch it, couldn’t find a local shop to fix it, and no body shop would take a tow-in.

I’ve used them twice with success. Repaired the transmission control which was damaged by misfires in my ‘03 Lincoln LS. It was plug and play. Replaced the PCM in my mom’s ‘05 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a pre-programmed new PCM. It required the keys to be reflashed.

 

[AJB0009]

The parts that you have thrown at it so far...
Are they OEM, or aftermarket Amazon / eBay specials?

I can't tell you how many issues are caused by mixing aftermarket parts into an ignition system.

 

[Bladecutter]

Are you saying that you've only used OEM parts, or are you saying that you have recently dropped your car off at FordTechmakuloco's shop to be worked on?
If that's the case, then good call.