Reduce Oil Burning

Status
Not open for further replies.
P

PaulyWally

Joined
Mar 19, 2017
Messages
15
Location
Wisconsin
Short story is my car started burning oil around 100K. There are absolutely zero drips in the garage - so I'm pretty positive it's burning.

I have scoured the internet looking for cause/resolution for burning oil. The popular opinion seems to be carbon deposits on the piston drain-back holes that prevent proper drainage of fuel/oil. As a result, some oil gets trapped in the combustion chamber and burns up. Some of the inexpensive DIY options that I've felt more comfortable trying include:
  • Add Seafoam to the crankcase & change oil 200-500mi later (mileage depends on who you ask)
  • Add Seafoam to the gas tank (on a full tank)
  • Replace 1qt of oil with 1qt of transmission fluid in the crankcase & change oil < 1000mi later
  • Run Seafoam directly into the vacuum system or air intake

I have done 1, 2, and 3 without much change in the amount of oil being burned. I haven't tried #4.

In June I am going on a road trip (3000mi round trip). I was thinking I should take advantage of the extended highway driving to try and clean out the engine. I'm tossing around a few ideas. But this is a rough idea of what I was thinking:
  • Next oil change will be with Mobile 1
  • Before departure, run 1 can of Seafoam directly into the air intake (per Seafoam instructions)
  • On the trip out, add Seafoam to every gas fill-up and add Mobile 1 as needed
  • Before making the trip back home, run 1 can of seafoam directly into the air intake (per Seafoam instructions)
  • On the trip back, add Seafoam to every gas fill-up and (if oil is still burning) add 1qt of trans fluid
  • For the last 200-300mi, add Seafoam to the crankcase (per Seafoam instructions)
  • When I return home, do a full oil change with Mobile 1

Any thoughts on this? Am I crazy? Is the info I found just bad advice? Vehicle information is below.

Thanks in advance!


2003 Honda Accord V-Tec 4-cyl
> 110,000 mi
5W-20 manufacturer recommended
4-qt capacity
Last several oil changes were with full synthetic (done by me) - before that was dino (done by the stealership)
Typical vehicle usage is 15-30 minute drives - extended driving is very rare
 
Originally Posted By: yst
Have you replaced PCV valve?


Negative. That's a quick thing I can do within the next couple days.
 
How much oil consumption are we talking about? If you want to try one more easy additive to add to the oil, try Rislone for the entire trip. That helped consumption on my Corolla. If that doesn't do anything, you may have to live with the consumption as long as it isn't smoking bad or fowling plugs/cat converter.
 
The engine have a defect where the intake sucks back in material that scorse the bores. There is a TSB.

I would scope it and see if there is bore damage.
 
+1 on looking at the PCV first.

At what rate is the oil being consumed? If it's a quart every OCI, I would not worry about it.
Also, I would be careful with throwing all sorts of solvents in the oil, especially since you don't know if the rings are actually stuck. Plus, a piston soak would be much more effective at freeing stuck rings than a solvent mixed with oil.
 
I have the same engine in my Accord, albeit with a bit higher mileage, and it burns about the same amount. Using a high mileage oil has helped me a bit, but not much. Its gone from about 1 quart every 1k to about 1 quart every 1.5k. Most k24s tend to burn oil as they age.
 
Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
I have the same engine in my Accord, albeit with a bit higher mileage, and it burns about the same amount. Using a high mileage oil has helped me a bit, but not much. Its gone from about 1 quart every 1k to about 1 quart every 1.5k. Most k24s tend to burn oil as they age.


You have 579,000 miles on your Accord???
 
Originally Posted By: PaulyWally
Short story is my car started burning oil around 100K. There are absolutely zero drips in the garage - so I'm pretty positive it's burning.

I have scoured the internet looking for cause/resolution for burning oil. The popular opinion seems to be carbon deposits on the piston drain-back holes that prevent proper drainage of fuel/oil. As a result, some oil gets trapped in the combustion chamber and burns up. Some of the inexpensive DIY options that I've felt more comfortable trying include:


Even if the drainback holes are clogged (which is a- doubtful, and b- if true means there's a truly massive amount of sludge in there), then how does the oil get from the valve cover area into the combustion chamber? If its doing that, the valve stem seals are also bad.

I wouldn't do ANY of the things involving Seafoam or other magical miracle cures.

First and foremost, I'd replace the PCV valve.

Beyond that, I'd run a high quality HM oil, physically remove the valve cover and inspect for sludge, and (if practical and within your wheelhouse) replace the valve stem seals if they're suspect.

More than likely if its not the PCV valve, its cylinder wall/ring wear causing increased consumption. Just deal with it as the engine ages, it won't get better no matter what goo you run through the crankcase, and most of those goos will just make it get worse faster in the long run.
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: PaulyWally
Short story is my car started burning oil around 100K. There are absolutely zero drips in the garage - so I'm pretty positive it's burning.

I have scoured the internet looking for cause/resolution for burning oil. The popular opinion seems to be carbon deposits on the piston drain-back holes that prevent proper drainage of fuel/oil. As a result, some oil gets trapped in the combustion chamber and burns up. Some of the inexpensive DIY options that I've felt more comfortable trying include:


Even if the drainback holes are clogged (which is a- doubtful, and b- if true means there's a truly massive amount of sludge in there), then how does the oil get from the valve cover area into the combustion chamber? If its doing that, the valve stem seals are also bad.

I wouldn't do ANY of the things involving Seafoam or other magical miracle cures.

First and foremost, I'd replace the PCV valve.

Beyond that, I'd run a high quality HM oil, physically remove the valve cover and inspect for sludge, and (if practical and within your wheelhouse) replace the valve stem seals if they're suspect.

More than likely if its not the PCV valve, its cylinder wall/ring wear causing increased consumption. Just deal with it as the engine ages, it won't get better no matter what goo you run through the crankcase, and most of those goos will just make it get worse faster in the long run.
This^^^^
 
Try some Castrol Magnatec it's a thick 5w-20 or a high mileage blend. Don't put weird things in your engine.
 
I know it shouldn't matter but in my vehicles m1 has always had higher consumption. switched to pu and it's greatly reduced.
 
+1 to what others have recommended here first.

1. Replace that PCV first.
2. If your still seeing a lot of consumption it's probably your rings or some cylinder wear, which is gonna happen with an engine that has some miles on it. Learn to live with it or do a rebuild.

3. Lift that valve cover and take us some pretty pictures if your worried about sludge.
wink.gif
 
Last edited:
Your problem is the age of your engine, not the mileage. Rubber dries up over time. Your valve-stem oil seals are old and dried-up. There are three remedies 1 - 3 but first No. 0.

0. Stop using premium oil. It's not practical to use premium oil in an engine that burns a lot of oil. It's unnecessarily costly and doesn't make sense. Besides, cheap, conventional oil burns better with less residue.

1. Use conventional 15w40. From my experience it reduces oil consumption through valve seals by a factor of three over 5W-20.

2. Replace your valve-stem oil seals. However, this is a very expensive repair unless you can do it yourself.

Wonders of valve-stem oil seal replacement

3. Sell your car and buy a new car. You will enjoy a modern car with advanced electronic safety features.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

A
Best HPL for Oil Burning Toyota 22RE
2
Replies
30
Views
1K
Sienna dude
M
2AZFE and Valvoline R&P story/results so far
Replies
6
Views
690
svtrit
N
5w-40 / 0w-40 Success!
2
Replies
34
Views
3K
kschachn
Threeofnine
Oil Temp needed to activate additives?
Replies
4
Views
367
eljefino
V
2006 Subaru Tribeca with EZ30R engine oil recommendations please?
Replies
14
Views
323
Oillover
Back
Top Bottom