Red Line - worth $17.48 a quart?
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Thanks for everyone's input. Strictly speaking, I don't mind paying for quality, but given the extended drains I do with the Envoy via the OLM, that was the primary application I was thinking about running Red Line.
Running M1 0W-40, oil consumption over almost a 12,000 mile OCI is less than ¼ of a liter. Running PU 5W-40 with a lower NOACK, oil consumption is barely noticeable, so I thought Red Line 5w30 would yield similar results with a NOACK of 6%, yet still having an HTHS of 3.7 cP. Sadly, there is no mention of TBN on Red Line's website, which is crucial for extended drains.
I will just stick with M1 0W-40 or PU 5W-40.
Originally Posted By: dino33
Hi Falcon. Just out of curiosity, how much does gas sell for a liter out there in your part of the world??? You would think it would be cheaper than anywhere else. The cheapest gas I've ever seen was in Mexico for what it's worth...
If you're buying the regular Euro II stuff:
87 AKI/91 RON: 22¢/liter (83¢/US Gallon)
91 AKI/95 RON: 23¢/liter (87¢/US Gallon)
93 AKI/98 RON: 32¢/liter ($1.21/US Gallon)
If you want the Euro V stuff:
91 AKI/95 RON: 92¢/liter ($3.48/US Gallon)
The Euro II stuff may be cheap, but the refineries have gotten old and are long overdue for upgrades. Fuel quality, as a result, has dropped significantly compared to what it once was, despite the higher sulfur content. Storage tanks are also not as well maintained, so I personally run Euro V in all my vehicles.
Running M1 0W-40, oil consumption over almost a 12,000 mile OCI is less than ¼ of a liter. Running PU 5W-40 with a lower NOACK, oil consumption is barely noticeable, so I thought Red Line 5w30 would yield similar results with a NOACK of 6%, yet still having an HTHS of 3.7 cP. Sadly, there is no mention of TBN on Red Line's website, which is crucial for extended drains.
I will just stick with M1 0W-40 or PU 5W-40.
Originally Posted By: dino33
Hi Falcon. Just out of curiosity, how much does gas sell for a liter out there in your part of the world??? You would think it would be cheaper than anywhere else. The cheapest gas I've ever seen was in Mexico for what it's worth...
If you're buying the regular Euro II stuff:
87 AKI/91 RON: 22¢/liter (83¢/US Gallon)
91 AKI/95 RON: 23¢/liter (87¢/US Gallon)
93 AKI/98 RON: 32¢/liter ($1.21/US Gallon)
If you want the Euro V stuff:
91 AKI/95 RON: 92¢/liter ($3.48/US Gallon)
The Euro II stuff may be cheap, but the refineries have gotten old and are long overdue for upgrades. Fuel quality, as a result, has dropped significantly compared to what it once was, despite the higher sulfur content. Storage tanks are also not as well maintained, so I personally run Euro V in all my vehicles.
Originally Posted By: buster
RL is one of the more expensive oils due to the POE content, but it's also one of the poorest performing oils based on UOA's via BITOG. FWIW.
I hate to agree with you but your right. My beloved redline doesn't show well in an extended drain situation but in a 5000 mile drain they perform marvellously with next to no wear metals and stellar cleanliness.
I love redline oils. But if extended drains were my goal M1 0w-40/GC/ RP EURO are all very tough to beat.
RL is one of the more expensive oils due to the POE content, but it's also one of the poorest performing oils based on UOA's via BITOG. FWIW.
I hate to agree with you but your right. My beloved redline doesn't show well in an extended drain situation but in a 5000 mile drain they perform marvellously with next to no wear metals and stellar cleanliness.
I love redline oils. But if extended drains were my goal M1 0w-40/GC/ RP EURO are all very tough to beat.
17.48 a quart. No there is not a oil on the market that makes a that price a value.
Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
Given this is BITOG, out of curiosity, how well of a cleaner is Red Line? Not in a sludged engine, but varnished.
I know some people also add Red Line to cure valve seal issues and such because of its ester content.
It's molecules are polar so they cling to ferrous metals,which lessens cold,dry start wear.
Extremely shear stable and use little to no viscosity index improvers means less plastic and more oil in the lubricant.
Additives dissolve very well in poe so the add pack tends to be more effective,and the obvious monster dosing of zddp and moly helps a consumer swallow the high price tag,since they know they are getting a lubricant that is overkill for everything but the most demanding applications.
Compatible with and maintains gaskets,preventing dry out.
The ester content helps maintain and can soften the hardened coked deposits on ring lands.
It's great stuff. But honestly I can get a jug of oil for what a quart costs and none of my applications are so demanding that they require a lubricant fortified to the degree redline is.
Whatever is on sale is good enough to keep any motor of mine running pristine long after the body has dissolved.
Given this is BITOG, out of curiosity, how well of a cleaner is Red Line? Not in a sludged engine, but varnished.
I know some people also add Red Line to cure valve seal issues and such because of its ester content.
It's molecules are polar so they cling to ferrous metals,which lessens cold,dry start wear.
Extremely shear stable and use little to no viscosity index improvers means less plastic and more oil in the lubricant.
Additives dissolve very well in poe so the add pack tends to be more effective,and the obvious monster dosing of zddp and moly helps a consumer swallow the high price tag,since they know they are getting a lubricant that is overkill for everything but the most demanding applications.
Compatible with and maintains gaskets,preventing dry out.
The ester content helps maintain and can soften the hardened coked deposits on ring lands.
It's great stuff. But honestly I can get a jug of oil for what a quart costs and none of my applications are so demanding that they require a lubricant fortified to the degree redline is.
Whatever is on sale is good enough to keep any motor of mine running pristine long after the body has dissolved.
Originally Posted By: buster
No. RL isn't worth $10 a qt.
+1 I refuse to pay over $3
No. RL isn't worth $10 a qt.
+1 I refuse to pay over $3
How much is Motul 300V per liter there, IF you can get it??
Clevy, I just bought a case of Amsoil 5w30 SSO. I believe I paid $10.60 a liter through their website. Shipping was somewhat reasonable, around $17 to BC. So, it would have worked out to nearly $12 bucks a liter plus tax. It was shipped from Edmonton where Amsoil has a distribution center. The more you buy at a time the more the overall cost per container comes down. $12 bucks a liter is high, I know, but C.T. sells Mobil1 ep for over $10 a liter when it's on sale. I figure the extra protection and the extended oic with the Amsoil would make it a half decent deal, at least that's the reasoning...
22 cents a liter! Sweet deal Falcon... We're around $1.34 for 87 octane! Gotta love taxes
Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
I will just stick with M1 0W-40 or PU 5W-40.
I think you nailed it!
I will just stick with M1 0W-40 or PU 5W-40.
I think you nailed it!
Its $28 AUD / Litre in OZ with a trade discount.
The recommended retail price is $36 AUD / Litre.
For a US gallon (3.78 Litre jug) it is $104 AUD.
The recommended retail price is $36 AUD / Litre.
For a US gallon (3.78 Litre jug) it is $104 AUD.
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Not unless you have money to burn or you hit the lottery.
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