Red Line 0w-10 in my honda?

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I asked this question 10 years ago on the Insight forum. That was before I knew BITOG existed. So I'll ask again:

Can their 0w-10 oil be run in my three-cylinder honda?
- What would be the negative effects?
How about their 20WT racing oil (5w-20)?
 
I'm assuming you're talking about the 0w-10 racing oil. I wouldn't do it. ZDDP levels are at 2400 ppm, and that's corrosive. I would also suspect it has little in the way of detergent, and the Red Line site recommends changing it more frequently than regular motor oils. At $13 a quart, that could get costly.

Also, I'm sure, being Red Line, it's got a higher HTHS than its 0w-10 designation would indicate.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
I'm assuming you're talking about the 0w-10 racing oil. I wouldn't do it. ZDDP levels are at 2400 ppm, and that's corrosive. I would also suspect it has little in the way of detergent, and the Red Line site recommends changing it more frequently than regular motor oils. At $13 a quart, that could get costly.

Also, I'm sure, being Red Line, it's got a higher HTHS than its 0w-10 designation would indicate.


+1 Stick with M1 0w20, thin and capable of very decent drain intervals in a daily driver.

As Garak said, too much ZDDP can have negative effects (especially in cars with catcon's.
 
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Originally Posted By: chubbs1
As Garak said, too much ZDDP can have negative effects (especially in cars with catcon's.


And at those levels, even with cars without catcons.
wink.gif
I wouldn't something with levels anywhere near that high in my old F-150. This stuff makes Valvoline VR-1 look like SN/GF-5!
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
I'm assuming you're talking about the 0w-10 racing oil. I wouldn't do it. ZDDP levels are at 2400 ppm, and that's corrosive. I would also suspect it has little in the way of detergent, and the Red Line site recommends changing it more frequently than regular motor oils. At $13 a quart, that could get costly.

Also, I'm sure, being Red Line, it's got a higher HTHS than its 0w-10 designation would indicate.



Very well stated. I would agree with Garak. While I am not opposed at all with going "thin" in your app, I would look for a more "streetable" oil. Racing oils may not be suitable for street applications due to formulation differences (completely different priorities).
 
Originally Posted By: Chris B.
Why not just pour water into the engine? It is cheaper and will probably protect just as well.


Like I said, it's probably actually thicker than a 0w-10; most Red Line oils have a thicker HTHS than their grade would indicate. That being said, I would worry more about the excessive ZDDP and lack of detergent than I would the 0w-10 designation. I wouldn't use this in a passenger vehicle regardless of what the grade were, be it 0w-10 or 0w50 or anything in between.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Originally Posted By: Chris B.
Why not just pour water into the engine? It is cheaper and will probably protect just as well.


Like I said, it's probably actually thicker than a 0w-10; most Red Line oils have a thicker HTHS than their grade would indicate. That being said, I would worry more about the excessive ZDDP and lack of detergent than I would the 0w-10 designation. I wouldn't use this in a passenger vehicle regardless of what the grade were, be it 0w-10 or 0w50 or anything in between.


Very well said. It's not a matter of viscosity alone, it's the whole package that has to be looked at and certifications printed on the bottle are there for a reason.
 
What is the purpose of such high zddp? RL advertises it as a good thing. They specificly say it will have no less than 2400 zddp.
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
I'm assuming you're talking about the 0w-10 racing oil. I wouldn't do it. ZDDP levels are at 2400 ppm, and that's corrosive. I would also suspect it has little in the way of detergent, and the Red Line site recommends changing it more frequently than regular motor oils. At $13 a quart, that could get costly.

Also, I'm sure, being Red Line, it's got a higher HTHS than its 0w-10 designation would indicate.


Garak is on top of this one. I wouldn't recommend running their 10WT racing oil undiluted for daily driver use for the reasons he states.

But maybe we could consider blending the 10WT with street oils to see if we can get a "normal" street oil with HTHS below 2.6. Redline doesn't publish the HTHS of their racing oils, but doing a Viscosity Index calculation, and converting to dynamic viscosity, I estimate that their 10WT oil has an HTHS of 2.0cP, which is actually the same HTHS that SAE is considering for their proposed 0w10 grade. If you were to do a blend of 50% 10WT racing oil with their 0w20 street oil, you would end up with the following viscosity characteristics:
KV40 = 34.1, KV100 = 6.5, VI = 148, and an estimated HTHS of 2.3. This is the min HTHS that SAE is targeting for their proposed 0w15 (or is it 16?) grade. This mixture would still have zddp far in excess of what modern street engines require, and would still be a short-drain oil, but the viscosity would be a significant step down from normal 20-weights. Maybe you could detect a fuel economy difference. But the cost savings would be eaten up by the use of an expensive short-drain oil.
 
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Originally Posted By: Garak
I'm assuming you're talking about the 0w-10 racing oil. I wouldn't do it. ZDDP levels are at 2400 ppm, and that's corrosive. I would also suspect it has little in the way of detergent, and the Red Line site recommends changing it more frequently than regular motor oils. At $13 a quart, that could get costly.

Also, I'm sure, being Red Line, it's got a higher HTHS than its 0w-10 designation would indicate.

Been there, done that.
Years ago I've used RL 0W-10 to try and thin out some 20wt oil and it didn't work.
It really isn't that light an oil and right on the bottle it states that it has a higher "bearing viscosity than most petroleum 20 Wts". That means a HTHSV likely just over 2.6cP. It also has a VI of only 130 so this oil will be heavier than all 5W-20 dinos.
The ultra high VI OEM 0W-20s like Mazda USA and Toyota will be much lighter than RL 10wt anda ll temp's and even RL 5wt race oils on start-up.

The lightest oil currently available is the Sustina 0W-20 due to it's 229 VI. In fact it's quite a bit lighter than the already very light Toyota 0W-20. My oil pressure at 80C was more than 10% lower with Sustina vs Toyota which really surprised me and lower than I wanted. I added a pint of Sustina 0w50 (est HTHSV 3.85cP, 178 VI) which more than made up the difference.


Garak is on top of this one. I wouldn't recommend running their 10WT racing oil undiluted for daily driver use for the reasons he states.

But maybe we could consider blending the 10WT with street oils to see if we can get a "normal" street oil with HTHS below 2.6. Redline doesn't publish the HTHS of their racing oils, but doing a Viscosity Index calculation, and converting to dynamic viscosity, I estimate that their 10WT oil has an HTHS of 2.0cP, which is actually the same HTHS that SAE is considering for their proposed 0w10 grade. If you were to do a blend of 50% 10WT racing oil with their 0w20 street oil, you would end up with the following viscosity characteristics:
KV40 = 34.1, KV100 = 6.5, VI = 148, and an estimated HTHS of 2.3. This is the min HTHS that SAE is targeting for their proposed 0w15 (or is it 16?) grade. This mixture would still have zddp far in excess of what modern street engines require, and would still be a short-drain oil, but the viscosity would be a significant step down from normal 20-weights. Maybe you could detect a fuel economy difference. But the cost savings would be eaten up by the use of an expensive short-drain oil.
 
Been there, done that.
Years ago I've used RL 0W-10 to try and thin out some 20wt oil and it didn't work.
It really isn't that light an oil and right on the bottle it states that it has a higher "bearing viscosity than most petroleum 20 Wts". That means a HTHSV likely just over 2.6cP. It also has a VI of only 130 so this oil will be heavier than all 5W-20 dinos.
The ultra high VI OEM 0W-20s like Mazda USA and Toyota will be much lighter than RL 10wt anda ll temp's and even RL 5wt race oils on start-up.

The lightest oil currently available is the Sustina 0W-20 due to it's 229 VI. In fact it's quite a bit lighter than the already very light Toyota 0W-20. My oil pressure at 80C was more than 10% lower with Sustina vs Toyota which really surprised me and lower than I wanted. I added a pint of Sustina 0w50 (est HTHSV 3.85cP, 178 VI) which more than made up the difference.
 
How does ZDDP corrode an engine?
Originally Posted By: jdawg89
0w 10? Wth? Might as well use mmo. Seems too thin for anything...
Shell pushes lubrication boundaries with fuel-saving 0W-10 synthetic motor oil

http://green.autoblog.com/2011/03/15/she...ng-0w-10-synth/ "When tested in Gordon Murray's T.25 city car, Shell engineers discovered that the new engine oil increased fuel efficiency by 6.5 percent in city driving and 4.6 percent on the combined cycle."
 
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That link is pretty old now (Mar/11), and the 6.5% fuel savings was certainly not compared to the current ultra high VI 0W-20 oils currently being used; they referenced 5W-20 and 5w30 grades.
Since then the new SAE 16 grade has been approved for oils with HTHSV below 2.6cP.
Honda and Toyota are already using a sub 20wt oil in Japan have been pushing for this. Expect to see the new lighter grade in 2014.
 
Originally Posted By: 04SVT
What is the purpose of such high zddp? RL advertises it as a good thing. They specificly say it will have no less than 2400 zddp.


It's marketed as a drag strip oil. It likely would be changed out frequently. Very high ZDDP in such an application is useful, since the camshaft wear in a very high spring pressure engine with lower ZDDP would likely exceed the danger of camshaft spalling due to high ZDDP, and components would be replaced long before spalling became an issue anyhow. They're not running tame spring pressures, nor do they expect half a million miles out of an engine.

@theaveng: With respect to corrosion, see above.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Honda and Toyota are already using a sub 20wt oil in Japan have been pushing for this.
Huh. I thought they were pushing the thin oil because of U.S. MPG requirements. Guess not.
 
Red Line does NOT recommend their RACE oils for use in STREET applications.
Race oils are intended for very short Oil Change Interval (OCI).....changed out at the end of a race.
They do not formulate them for even a Jiffy Lube run of 3K miles.

They have a line of street oils for that application.
For your Honda.....their 0W-20 would be a great choice.
 
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