This battery was in an old non-running Volvo I just picked up. A Valucraft from 2013 rated at 550 CCA. Autozones's low priced battery line similar to Walmart's $55 batteries today. It could have been sitting for months or more. Figured it good only for a core, but put it on a charger anyway. It tested out at under 100 CCA after a few attempts. Then I put it on a Battery Minder maintainer/reconditioner. After 24 hours it was over 200 CCA. After 2 days, over 300CCA. Currenty over 450 CCA. Good enough for me on a battery rated at 550CCA.
Reconditioning a cheap 9 year old battery
- Thread starter atikovi
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You mean take the label off and post on Craigslist?
I hope it works. You gotta love that the newer chargers (some of them) have a resuscitation feature which appears legit.
Umm, that's what the picture shows.
Make and model please!!!
The load test to pass is 1/2 CCA load for 15 seconds (it beeps) then quickly read voltage off the temp adjusted voltmeter.
464 CCA is more than enough for any car I would use it in.
We have these in use to diagnose various SLA and AGM batteries.
Did you look at SOH, SOC and RES values ?
Does the battery maintain the CA and CCA and V levels when cranking an engine ?
Did you look at SOH, SOC and RES values ?
Does the battery maintain the CA and CCA and V levels when cranking an engine ?
Does the battery tester say, "Replace battery"?
Yes because I set it to test 550 cca. If I had it at 450 cca it would say Good battery.
I think Battery Minders are very good at what they do. I have the one level up from yours that do high and low temp compensation. But they will not bring all batteries back to life. Some need to be used for core.
The real load test uses a carbon pile load tester. The conductive battery testers are pretty good but the ultimate test is a carbon pile load tester. You can smell the test going on with a carbon pile load tester.
The real load test uses a carbon pile load tester. The conductive battery testers are pretty good but the ultimate test is a carbon pile load tester. You can smell the test going on with a carbon pile load tester.
No issues with using a 9 year old questionable battery like that as long as I keep jumper cables and a charged jump pack in the car.
The restoration method for a charged, older 12V AGM battery is to drain it to 10V using a small load, like a small light bulb, then charge at 10% of the AH rating, for 16 hours, using a constant current charger.
Example, a 44AH battery (AT THE C1 1hour RATE)(NOT THE 20H RATE) would constant-current charge at 4.4Amps for 16 hours. If the battery gets hot, stop at 8 hours and resume the next day for 8 hours.
You can try all manner of pulse charging, and slow charging. The Constant Current method is the only way to get the plates to actively desulfate.
Example, a 44AH battery (AT THE C1 1hour RATE)(NOT THE 20H RATE) would constant-current charge at 4.4Amps for 16 hours. If the battery gets hot, stop at 8 hours and resume the next day for 8 hours.
You can try all manner of pulse charging, and slow charging. The Constant Current method is the only way to get the plates to actively desulfate.
I wouldn't bother. It's worth little more than the core value, not worth it to me to pull, test, charge-rejuvenate, test, charge, test, and jump start the vehicle later, all to save $10 (rough estimate of yearly cost per battery) to get another (maybe) year out of it?
It would be different if there was a severe battery shortage.
On a related note, don't buy Walmart batteries from their website. Or do, maybe even better for you if you're into this kind of battery rejuvenation. They add the core charge onto the tax, so the total price ends up right but then there's no way to take the old core back for a refund as their system can't process it, so you then call 1-800-walmart and give them all the info, and they refund your core charge and you keep the old battery.
It would be different if there was a severe battery shortage.
On a related note, don't buy Walmart batteries from their website. Or do, maybe even better for you if you're into this kind of battery rejuvenation. They add the core charge onto the tax, so the total price ends up right but then there's no way to take the old core back for a refund as their system can't process it, so you then call 1-800-walmart and give them all the info, and they refund your core charge and you keep the old battery.
Few people look at the cost per year. If your battery cost $120 and is good for 6 years, if you push to 7 years you are saving $20. Not all batteries fail at home where you have tools, maybe a spare car, jumper cables, warm garage.
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Actually, the OPs Battery Minder 1500 (wall wart) maintainer has temperature compensation, you can see the pig tail coming out of the bottom and off to the right. I believe all Battery Minders have this feature.