Recommendation for VQ25DET

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AdamC

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Aug 11, 2013
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Hi All,

When sold in Japan, this engine was fitted to the Nissan Stagea – a large station wagon aka estate with a 5 speed auto + 4wd weighing ~1700KG. The engine is a twin overhead cam, VVT V6 2.5L single turbo, 206 kW, running 13psi. The OE oil spec is the Nissan specific 7.5W-30 (like the RB series motors) with 10,000km OCI.

I recently bought a 93,000km Stagea and immediately changed the oil to Valvoline SynPower 5W-40 (mainly because of availability and price). I am thinking of trying a ?W-30 next time, but there's a lot of resistance to running a 30 on the Australian tech forum. Reasons given are “Australia is a lot warmer than Japan” “many engines are noisy on ?W-30s”. Here are some other quotes;

“I suspect the majority of the oil viscosity noise is coming from the VQ cam chain tensioners, the two smaller chains between the cams. These tensioners have restrictors in and out, and can bleed off too quick with a thinner oil, not pushing the chain with enough force to keep it tight. I find a 10w40 perfect to remedy these noisier engines. Any thicker simply makes the car feel lethargic”

“Neo 10w40 or Motul 300v when I had the VQ25det, changed every 10,000. Anything else and I'd dump it after 5,000.”

“5W30 was too thin and why would I bother getting it tested when it was quite obvious to me on a 50K old motor that never had a rattle before on 10W40 that it was wrong. Personally I think your crazy to run anything under a 10w40 in these unless you live in the snow.”

“I agree, every car I have heard with engine rattles has had the standard mechanic's 5w30 (Commo spec) oil. Just remember these VQ's run 90+ degree oil temps daily, even in winter, and I have seen over 10 bar oil pressure on my gauge.“

Comments please? Should I try, say, Mobil 1 5W-30 ESP and get a UOA at 5000kms?
 
Mobil 1 0W-40 or whatever is equivalent in the Shell variety in AUS.

It has a turbo so just make sure it's a synthetic.
 
I don't see any reason why you would want to switch from synpower 5w40 unless it's too expensive. M1 0w40 is a good choice but not cheap like it is here.

How long are you planning on going on each oci? I think synpower is good for regular intervals. I don't think sodium based additive packs do well on extended intervals.
 
How do you drive it?

Is the 7.5w30 an energy conserving grade? Most likely so something like Mobil 1 5w30 (Ilsac GF-5 rated) is the equivalent.

On here you will find that high output Japanese turbo engines like a slightly thicker oil like Mobil 1 0w40 or Rotella T6 5w40. Valvoline Synpower 5w40 is similar and falls in this viscosity and application range too.

Somewhat in between these Xw40s and the energy conserving 5w30s are "thick" ACEA A3 rated xw30s. I think you could try one of these if you want to stick to a 5w30. The most common one in Aussie is Castrol Edge 5w30. Penrite 0w30 is also in the same boat.

You could use Mobil 1 ESP 5w30, it is also a thick Xw30 but it has the European ACEA C3 (catalyst) specification so will be more expensive than other ACEA A3 Xw30s.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
I don't see any reason why you would want to switch from synpower 5w40 unless it's too expensive. M1 0w40 is a good choice but not cheap like it is here.

How long are you planning on going on each oci? I think synpower is good for regular intervals. I don't think sodium based additive packs do well on extended intervals.


I'm happy to stay with synpower - was just interested in opinions on using a -30. I get M1 0W-40 in quarts over here, i guess the supplier buys it in the states and brings it over. Much cheaper than local.

Will be looking to stay with 10K kms OCI. Are you saying synpower might not be good for the full 10K?
 
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Originally Posted By: supercity
How do you drive it?


Its stock, and is a daily, so it gets stop start traffic, but not much hard use.
 
I honestly think you would be well served by going with any oil that meets a manufacturer's turbo spec (i.e. Honda HT0-06, VW 502.00
If the Synpower is the cheapest and it meets a turbo spec then I don't see anything wrong with using it. It's just that I was going by what we get in the US and they're all basically the same price and I would go with either M1 0w-40 or Shell Rotella T6 if it were me.
 
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Synpower 5w40 will be fine for 10k OCI. Aussie Synpower is the HST variant which is different to the stuff commonly available in the USA

I would use Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 over Mobil 1 0w40 due to cost. If you want to use a 5w30 I would go with Castrol Edge 5w30. Like the Synpower, this is also different to the Castrol Edge commonly available in the USA.
 
I did not know the StageA was ever made with a VQ engine. I thought they all had RB engines.

Anyway, you say you can get Valvoline Synthetic 5w40 easily? That sounds like a match for this engine. The only reason I read that the newest GT-R uses M1 0w40 is because of the sprayed on cylinder liners. I am fairly certain the VQ engines used iron sleeves.
 
Originally Posted By: artificialist
I did not know the StageA was ever made with a VQ engine. I thought they all had RB engines.

Anyway, you say you can get Valvoline Synthetic 5w40 easily? That sounds like a match for this engine. The only reason I read that the newest GT-R uses M1 0w40 is because of the sprayed on cylinder liners. I am fairly certain the VQ engines used iron sleeves.


How does sprayed on cylinder liners change the oil requirements? My engine has oil sprayed t the under side of the pistons. I thought this was for cooling.

Nissan RB was discontinued about 10 years ago. They had to use something else.
 
Originally Posted By: supercity
Originally Posted By: artificialist
I did not know the StageA was ever made with a VQ engine. I thought they all had RB engines.

Anyway, you say you can get Valvoline Synthetic 5w40 easily? That sounds like a match for this engine. The only reason I read that the newest GT-R uses M1 0w40 is because of the sprayed on cylinder liners. I am fairly certain the VQ engines used iron sleeves.


How does sprayed on cylinder liners change the oil requirements? My engine has oil sprayed t the under side of the pistons. I thought this was for cooling.

Nissan RB was discontinued about 10 years ago. They had to use something else.




Sprayed on liners mean that the cylinder bore had a special material welded to the aluminum and Nissan determined that M1 0w40 was best for that situation. a VQ engine is an aluminum block with iron liners as cylinder bores.

Are you think of pistons that are cooled by oil spray?
 
I agree with the turbo spec oils. If you can acquire conventional rotella 10w-30 I think it would be a good fit for 5000 mile oil changes.
If you are wanting to get up to 10000 then I believe you're only choice would be a synthetic.
Diesels run big turbos and get the oil really hot,perhaps a diesel spec oil would be more cost effective.
There is old glory M1 0w-40 though. I'm sure it would fit the bill. German castrol may also work too.
 
Save is energy conserving II
Formula must be for racing
Endurance for something inbetween. Crazy Japanese

It's interesting they did not suggest a 40 grade but I'm sure a modern 40 grade, Synpower etc, would be as good as the SJ 10w50 they had in mind. If you want to try a 50 grade I would use Mobil 1 5w50.

If it is just an everyday car I would choose Castrol Edge 5w30 or Penrite 0w30. If a light 40 grade like Helix Ultra, Edge or Synpower can be had cheaper, Id take that.
 
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