When I get my old Craftsman chainsaw running again, hopefully this weekend, I want to replace the original 16" chain. What chain would you all recommend?
Recommend a new chainsaw blade
- Thread starter wavinwayne
- Start date
The Oregon blades are good consumer(safety) chains.
For a short bar, lower powered saw, i'd recommend staying with a homeowner style chain. Reduces kick back on a small light saw.
On the bar, should be a gauge listed like .050, thats what that bar will accept. Next is pitch , it has to match the drive sprocket of your saw like 1/4 or 3/8. Next is cutter style, its a 40cc saw, so i'd use a chamfer chisel or at most a semi chisel. Too much bite on a low power saw, and it bogs down , and might kick back on small limbs.
https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/p...ght-saw-chain/c/finding-the-right-saw-chain-s
On the bar, should be a gauge listed like .050, thats what that bar will accept. Next is pitch , it has to match the drive sprocket of your saw like 1/4 or 3/8. Next is cutter style, its a 40cc saw, so i'd use a chamfer chisel or at most a semi chisel. Too much bite on a low power saw, and it bogs down , and might kick back on small limbs.
https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/p...ght-saw-chain/c/finding-the-right-saw-chain-s
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I know nothing of chains. What is a safety chain?
IF you have a saw model number , i can look up more for you.
358.351161
Safety chain limits the cutters bite into the wood. It lets the saw run more rpm without bogging down, this reduces kick back. It does cut slower.
Pro chains have less of raker and are made for more powerful saws that are heavier, and used by those who cut a lot and have experience.
I use pro chains, but i cut a lot and have large saws.
I will just be cutting up limbs, not whole trees. I like being alive.
I'm hoping to pick up a new chain from either Home Depot or Tractor Supply Co.
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Your saw takes a 3/8 chain, .050 bar, 56 drive length chain.I will just be cutting up limbs, not whole trees. I like being alive.
You can look up a poulan 2400, or 2450 to match chains.
This should work.
https://www.amazon.com/Oregon-S56-A...vg&qid=1727791637&sprefix=91vg,aps,154&sr=8-4
Here is an older craftsman chain for that saw. It lists comparable models on the back.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2669957383...-a11b-369c2096286f|iid:1|vlpname:vlp_homepage
Low kickback chain is usually identified with green marking on one of the links and the package, while the more dangerous chain has a yellow mark. The green chain has inert nubs that stick up in between the teeth to limit its ability to bite into wood and kick back.
Here is the owners manual for that saw. It includes a parts list.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/480060/Craftsman-358-351161.html
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/480060/Craftsman-358-351161.html
You're awesome! Thank you!!! I ordered that Oregon chain you linked to. Easy-peasy.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oregon-...sman-Poulan-and-More-2-Pack-S56T-21/317597000I will just be cutting up limbs, not whole trees. I like being alive.
Read up on how to tension the chain. After you run a new chain a few cuts, it usually will have to be tightened.You're awesome! Thank you!!! I ordered that Oregon chain you linked to. Easy-peasy.
Also don't hit the ground. Hitting the dirt will instantly dull your chain, you will know it , as it will instantly cut slower.
Roger that. I'm actually very familiar with the operation of the saw, as I used it for months on end back in 1998-1999 clearing a small lot. I just haven't had much of a need for it since then due to the places I've lived until now.
Safety chains have half the cutting teeth of a pro chain, easier to control and don't grab or kick back as much as the pro chains can. I'm not aware of any homeowner grade saws that come with a pro chain on them. Even the Stihl farm boss saw comes stock with a safety chain.
Got it. I ordered a new chain that looks like the OEM, so definitely a homeowner grade chain. I've got no business messing with pro level arborist tools.
I usually use semi-chisel. In-between the safety chain and the full chisel pro chain. The full chisel will cut faster, but they also dull quicker if cutting dirty wood.
In the case of all the chains I use, your first sentence is incorrect. Safety chains have a unique raker design that reduces kickback as the chain travels around the top 1/4 bar tip.
FYI, Stihl safety chains are so well designed that you barely notice any reduction of efficiency vs. a standard chain.
Yeah I agree, the terminology is loose when it comes to chains. What most people would call a "pro chain" is actually called a "standard chain" but most homeowners would consider the chain that came on their saw to be "standard" when it actually has dummy links where cutters would be on a real standard chain. Then there are the different chisel types to throw in, along with skip chisels etc.
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