Rating lower tiered synthetics?

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Originally Posted by SteveG4
Given what I've read here, my Chevy vehicles will run just fine on the new Costco Kirkland-branded, D1G2, full syn 5W-30 oil.
I sure hope so. I do like its price at $12.50 per 5 quarts (minimum purchase is 2 each 5-qt jugs)!

Let the oil geeks nerd out on the Dexos specs/requirements. Just know that any oil, even Kirkland, carrying the GM D1G2 approval is of high quality.

(and fwiw I'm not a GM fanboi, I basically think they're doing an end around the MMWA with their whole Dexos requirement thing...but that's another discussion)
 
If lubes are only different because of marketing … I'd suggest MolaKule remove lots of the white paper stuff he's burning up space with. I'd also suggest German car makers just follow API and not waste time and money. Racers too.
Further, when they are ready to introduce a new OEM standard … just hook up with Warren.
And get an Amsoil bypass kit to run ST for 25k and over 500k like a member here has.

Guys, we get these lubes meet some decent standards and are all one needs in many cases … but they are copy engineered and not the sector leaders being glorified as such. That matters to some.
Spend your money however … but this only difference is marketing is not grounded in reality. The term is claims, BTW.
Warren could not exist without industry stalwarts … and as a long term employee of heavy industries … I'm going to support vital companies … not the Equate of lubrication. (plus I take long flights to work, guess what)

The best thing that has happened for Warren is the majors investing hundreds of millions in advanced GII.
The next best thing is the OLM … and not having to push oil long in TDI engines.
If anything … the OEM's are making fuel diluted engines that have ruined efforts by the majors to make and market long range lubes.
I don't think all of the debate should be over lubes … how about the OEM's deal with design flaws ruining the great oils to the point members are dumping often and cheap now works better.
I'm holding a big stash of M1 AP thinking it's better than ST … but how do I push it longer if only the DI ruins it
(use ST HD30 to spike it halfway ?)
 
Originally Posted by 4WD
If lubes are only different because of marketing … I'd suggest MolaKule remove lots of the white paper stuff he's burning up space with. I'd also suggest German car makers just follow API and not waste time and money. Racers too.
Further, when they are ready to introduce a new OEM standard … just hook up with Warren.
And get an Amsoil bypass kit to run ST for 25k and over 500k like a member here has.

Guys, we get these lubes meet some decent standards and are all one needs in many cases … but they are copy engineered and not the sector leaders being glorified as such. That matters to some.
Spend your money however … but this only difference is marketing is not grounded in reality. The term is claims.

I think both can be true fwiw.. the way i see it is there can be a tier of lubes where the formulas and test performance is so similar that marketing is the biggest differentiator. (this is not to say that these are "bad" oils)...Then, you can have a tier of oils where the formulas aren't so "formulaic" so to speak. For this tier of lubes, marketing isn't just the only or even the most important differentiator but rather the formula itself is and a laundry list of approvals bears this out.
 
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Thanks for the replies.....I called them 'lower tier' because they aren't the flagship products from their respective manufacturers.
I chose 0w20 because I'm sure it's as good, if not better than the 5w20 (of the same brand) that Ford recommends. Having said that...I have stuck with 5w20 so far....although because the sump is 5.7 quarts I have occasionally used a 5 qt. jug of 5w20 and made up the additional .7 quart with 5w30 of the same brand (because I had it on hand).

PS: It's a 2016 Escape and I have used synthetic but never gone over 7K on an OCI....I'm thinking of getting braver because of the large sump and steller UOAs on this engine....Thanks Subie...that spreadsheet gives me even more confidence to extend my OCIs.

PS2: I would probably choose the Magnatec or QSUD as the best of that bunch....just my opinion.
 
I also have a 2016 Duratech escape.

Plan on servicing it with whatever I have that meets spec (5w20). Currently have 15 quarts of Havoline HM, plan on using it with no fear in a 20k mile engine.

Not liking the underbelly cover on this thing, will have my first encounter with it in a few weeks.

Also, there are some deals to be had on the 5 gallon jugs of Milesyn 5w20.
 
Originally Posted by JustinH
Currently have 15 quarts of Havoline HM, plan on using it with no fear in a 20k mile engine.

I've never seen any objective data that suggests using a HiMi formula in ANY mileage engine is detrimental to parts or longevity. If somebody has it, I'm all ears. And once we're done discussing it and it stands up to scrutiny, we're gonna sue the pants of every major mfg and blender for making a product they knew was bad for engines. We'll be rich!...‚
 
Originally Posted by Imp4
Originally Posted by RDY4WAR
I consider them lower teir because they are minimalistic, with a rather cookie cutter recipe, that aims to meet minimum standards and push product. Everything is cheapened as much as possible, so long as it still meets API, in order to be competitive with one another and make a good profit. They are your bare bones basic recipes.

Oh brother!!!!! Based on what?!?!?
VOA?
UOA?
Blending recipe?
Base stocks?

Or is it successful marketing?!?
cheers3.gif


BTW, please include the details of whatever recipe you are aware of. For educational purposes only, of course!!!


They all follow along a similar path walking the fine line of API standards between emissions / environmental requirements and wear protection requirements. They are also very much restrained by cost. A lot of people pick oil by cost (just look at the majority of members on this board) so keeping it as cheap as possible, while turning the biggest profit, is ideal.

Now compare that to the likes of Amsoil, Driven, High Performance Lubricants, and other small blenders. They couldn't care less about meeting API standards because that's not their market. Their focus is making the best product possible with cost being a non-factor. They use higher treat rates of anti-wear, friction modifiers, EP, detergents, and so on, as well as better quality, more reactive, and more durable additives, because they aren't being restricted by API and cost. These are what I consider to be top tier oils. Molyvan 855, for example, is an outstanding friction modifier (blows trinuclear MoDTC out of the water) that is used by many of these small blenders, but you'll never find it in an API oil simply because it's too expensive.

The chemistry put into these "cookie cutter" brands (as I like to call them) is very limited, where as the smaller blenders branch out into far more extensive chemistry. The shelf brands use probably about 10% of the oil tech that's out there. The other 90% is used by the small blenders. If you focus only on API approved oils, your knowledge and experience with oils becomes severely limited.

I created an iceberg image of this a while back to represent what I'm talking about. This is why I refer to them as lower tier. They don't branch out into new and extensive tech and chase the latest and greatest chemistry. That's not in their interest. Their scope is extremely narrow.

Now this isn't to say the API shelf oils suck. They don't. They get the job done, as is shown by numerous UOAs on here as well as millions of vehicles on the road today that go several hundred thousand miles on these oils. For the vast majority of people, they are sufficient. What I'm getting at is if you base your scope of oil quality off those oils alone, you are severely limiting yourself.



Oil iceberg.jpg
 
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Originally Posted by 4WD
Guys, we get these lubes meet some decent standards and are all one needs in many cases … but they are copy engineered and not the sector leaders being glorified as such. That matters to some.
Spend your money however … but this only difference is marketing is not grounded in reality. The term is claims, BTW.


And let's look at some of the "not sector leaders" as far as oil, shall we? Pennzoil Gold, the bottom rung of the SOPUS ladder, is d1G2 certified, and if you start using it by 74,999 total miles, Pennzoil will warranty it for another 225,001 miles, all the way to 300k, against oil related failures. Quaker State does the same thing as well, and Valvoline has an engine warranty too.

Even if you started using it just a single mile prior to the warranty cutoff, how many same owners keep their vehicles longer than 10 years and/or 225k miles? According to an article I found on Forbes, the average mileage on cars today is roughly 47k, and the Ford Expedition had the highest percentage of total vehicles over 200k at 5.7% of its total production, and the average for ALL vehicles is a measly 1.3%. So, obviously not a majority, or even a large part. So yes, the advice is wise... if you keep your car for less than 200k miles and all you do is drive to work and the grocery store, the cheapest jug on the shelf will still protect your engine just fine... and there are literally thousands of UOAs that bear this out... (outside of the PQIA warning oils) no one oil has been blamed for a rash of engine failures unless... you're not using the oil spec'd by the manufacturer.

As many intelligent board members have stated in various different ways, ANY jug you buy off the shelf these days that meets your engine's oil specs will get you far past the warranty, and likely still be running like a champ when the car's husk is sent to the crusher. The reason boutique oils exist is twofold: the first, already identified is marketing. The second is most of those "special" oils were not originally formulated for on-highway vehicles (Redline, Royal Purple, etc); they have a target market of motorsports that push the engine far outside the range of what was intended by the manufacturer. And third, marketing.
lol.gif
 
Originally Posted by pbm
Thanks Subie...that spreadsheet gives me even more confidence to extend my OCIs.


Not a problem... have you stuck any of the MicroGreens on that thing yet?

And +1 to bryan's post below since I don't want to thread-hog
smile.gif
 
No, thaT is not what I intended to say. Products are sold with marketing, marketing convinces us that one product is superior to a similar product of the same specs be it an SUV or a oil that meets that SUVs requirements.


The oils are designed to meet specs, be they api, ILSAc, ACEA or specific manufacturer specs for Porsche, GM and ford. Or they can be designer specs for extended drains or racing.
If there is a specification, that is underserved, a blender will step up and fill that need, then others will and like all manufacturing in today's economy, the leanest manufacturing and product delivery wins the market share game.

So if you have an oil that meets the specifications for the need let's say a Ford Ecoboost. Buying a designer oil for extended drains does not provide any performance benefit, regardless of the rationality used to make one support their decision to do so, such as superior materials have to mean superior performance..but the data shows that this is not true with today's machines.

Originally Posted by 4WD
If lubes are only different because of marketing … I'd suggest MolaKule remove lots of the white paper stuff he's burning up space with. I'd also suggest German car makers just follow API and not waste time and money. Racers too.
Further, when they are ready to introduce a new OEM standard … just hook up with Warren.
And get an Amsoil bypass kit to run ST for 25k and over 500k like a member here has.

Guys, we get these lubes meet some decent standards and are all one needs in many cases … but they are copy engineered and not the sector leaders being glorified as such. That matters to some.
Spend your money however … but this only difference is marketing is not grounded in reality. The term is claims, BTW.
Warren could not exist without industry stalwarts … and as a long term employee of heavy industries … I'm going to support vital companies … not the Equate of lubrication. (plus I take long flights to work, guess what)

The best thing that has happened for Warren is the majors investing hundreds of millions in advanced GII.
The next best thing is the OLM … and not having to push oil long in TDI engines.
If anything … the OEM's are making fuel diluted engines that have ruined efforts by the majors to make and market long range lubes.
I don't think all of the debate should be over lubes … how about the OEM's deal with design flaws ruining the great oils to the point members are dumping often and cheap now works better.
I'm holding a big stash of M1 AP thinking it's better than ST … but how do I push it longer if only the DI ruins it
(use ST HD30 to spike it halfway ?)
 
I've used the Super Tech, the NAPA, the Magnetic, the Quaker state, but none of the others...I've also used Carquest synthetic and Mobil Super Flow synthetic.

I'd say I had a the best results with the Magnetic...quieter engine, less oil consumption.

The house brands (Carquest, Napa) seemed pretty similar in consumption/noise. The Super Flow too. For some reason the Super Tech seems to not do as well in my engines (use more oil and it's a little louder, no idea why).
 
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
Originally Posted by pbm
Thanks Subie...that spreadsheet gives me even more confidence to extend my OCIs.


Not a problem... have you stuck any of the MicroGreens on that thing yet?

And +1 to bryan's post below since I don't want to thread-hog
smile.gif




It's funny that you ask....I plan on running one of them next and have thought that they would be a good choice to use with one of the (so-called) lower-tier synthetics since they claim to make any oil a 10K oil (or something like that). I have several of these oils in my stash and will probably run the NAPA or ST with the MG filter.
 
I'd separate QSUD and Magnatec from the bunch as higher quality and lump all the rest together as equal lower quality.

Perception based on marketing. LOL
 
Originally Posted by RDY4WAR
Originally Posted by Imp4
Originally Posted by RDY4WAR
I consider them lower teir because they are minimalistic, with a rather cookie cutter recipe, that aims to meet minimum standards and push product. Everything is cheapened as much as possible, so long as it still meets API, in order to be competitive with one another and make a good profit. They are your bare bones basic recipes.

Oh brother!!!!! Based on what?!?!?
VOA?
UOA?
Blending recipe?
Base stocks?

Or is it successful marketing?!?
cheers3.gif


BTW, please include the details of whatever recipe you are aware of. For educational purposes only, of course!!!


They all follow along a similar path walking the fine line of API standards between emissions / environmental requirements and wear protection requirements. They are also very much restrained by cost. A lot of people pick oil by cost (just look at the majority of members on this board) so keeping it as cheap as possible, while turning the biggest profit, is ideal.

Now compare that to the likes of Amsoil, Driven, High Performance Lubricants, and other small blenders. They couldn't care less about meeting API standards because that's not their market. Their focus is making the best product possible with cost being a non-factor. They use higher treat rates of anti-wear, friction modifiers, EP, detergents, and so on, as well as better quality, more reactive, and more durable additives, because they aren't being restricted by API and cost. These are what I consider to be top tier oils. Molyvan 855, for example, is an outstanding friction modifier (blows trinuclear MoDTC out of the water) that is used by many of these small blenders, but you'll never find it in an API oil simply because it's too expensive.

The chemistry put into these "cookie cutter" brands (as I like to call them) is very limited, where as the smaller blenders branch out into far more extensive chemistry. The shelf brands use probably about 10% of the oil tech that's out there. The other 90% is used by the small blenders. If you focus only on API approved oils, your knowledge and experience with oils becomes severely limited.

I created an iceberg image of this a while back to represent what I'm talking about. This is why I refer to them as lower tier. They don't branch out into new and extensive tech and chase the latest and greatest chemistry. That's not in their interest. Their scope is extremely narrow.

Now this isn't to say the API shelf oils suck. They don't. They get the job done, as is shown by numerous UOAs on here as well as millions of vehicles on the road today that go several hundred thousand miles on these oils. For the vast majority of people, they are sufficient. What I'm getting at is if you base your scope of oil quality off those oils alone, you are severely limiting yourself.


C'mon man!!!
You stated that these 'lower tier' oils use cookie cutter recipes. So I asked what recipe exactly is it, because you seem to know.
Your response was a truthful but irrelevant, non-descript, non-specific comment with no evidence.

I will commend you on the artwork but I'll also note it's also based on your own speculation and conjecture. Completely irrelevant other than to note the brands you personally like or don't like.

Please answer my original questions.

And if you don't know what the recipe(s) are, it's totally ok to say "I don't know what the recipes are", cause that's what I usually say when I don't know.

In an effort to keep this from degenerating any further, could you please just substantiate your claims with evidence?

Thanks!!!
Happy New Year!!!
cheers3.gif
 
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Originally Posted by wemay
... The rest...(splitting hairs)
1. Napa
2. ST
3. Lubrigold
4. MSS
5..HK
How can that be when Lubrigold and HK are identical?
 
Originally Posted by pbm
In what order would you rate these oils in 0w20 grade?

QSUD
Castrol Magnatec
Mobil Super Synthetic
NAPA synthetic
ST Synthetic
Shell Synthetic
Harvest King (by Citgo)
Lubrigold (by the other Warren)

Is it believed that any of these can do 10K in an NA, non DI, engine which isn't known to be hard on oil ….like the 2.5 Duratec in my Escape? Thanks for your opinions...


Your order looks pretty good to me
I may put harvest king on bottom and maybe move mobil super syn downda few
 
Originally Posted by 4WD
If lubes are only different because of marketing … I'd suggest MolaKule remove lots of the white paper stuff he's burning up space with. I'd also suggest German car makers just follow API and not waste time and money. Racers too.
Further, when they are ready to introduce a new OEM standard … just hook up with Warren.
And get an Amsoil bypass kit to run ST for 25k and over 500k like a member here has.

Guys, we get these lubes meet some decent standards and are all one needs in many cases … but they are copy engineered and not the sector leaders being glorified as such. That matters to some.
Spend your money however … but this only difference is marketing is not grounded in reality. The term is claims, BTW.
Warren could not exist without industry stalwarts … and as a long term employee of heavy industries … I'm going to support vital companies … not the Equate of lubrication. (plus I take long flights to work, guess what)

The best thing that has happened for Warren is the majors investing hundreds of millions in advanced GII.
The next best thing is the OLM … and not having to push oil long in TDI engines.
If anything … the OEM's are making fuel diluted engines that have ruined efforts by the majors to make and market long range lubes.
I don't think all of the debate should be over lubes … how about the OEM's deal with design flaws ruining the great oils to the point members are dumping often and cheap now works better.
I'm holding a big stash of M1 AP thinking it's better than ST … but how do I push it longer if only the DI ruins it
(use ST HD30 to spike it halfway ?)




A really good post 4wd ^^^^^^

I will say that Exxon or Shell does make some $$ selling the base oils to Warren Oil, Warren Distribution, and Cam2 etc etc....

I like Cam2 because they actually get their additive packages from Afton.... Which is located in my home state in Richmond VA... Plus the Cam2 full synthetic Dexos Gen 2 oil runs very quiet in my car. Interesting to that according to the SDS the Cam2 Dexos1 Gen 2 oil actually has 25-40% PAO in the oil... Highest percentage similar to Mobil 1 EP 5w30.
 
Well, those who like to criticize marketing could check with Wayne on how much we'll have to donate if Pennzoil was not a sponsor with banners on this very site.

What companies investing millions do not market and make "claims" …
They know their competition will buy and test that lubricant …
 
Originally Posted by Imp4

C'mon man!!!
You stated that these 'lower tier' oils use cookie cutter recipes. So I asked what recipe exactly is it, because you seem to know.
Your response was a truthful but irrelevant, non-descript, non-specific comment with no evidence.

I will commend you on the artwork but I'll also note it's also based on your own speculation and conjecture. Completely irrelevant other than to note the brands you personally like or don't like.

Please answer my original questions.

And if you don't know what the recipe(s) are, it's totally ok to say "I don't know what the recipes are", cause that's what I usually say when I don't know.

In an effort to keep this from degenerating any further, could you please just substantiate your claims with evidence?

Thanks!!!
Happy New Year!!!
cheers3.gif



Alright. Let me see what I can say here without disclosing the exact formulas for specific oils.

Pretty much every API SN+ / D1G2 oil is going to generally look like this (plus a margin of error)...

Ca: 1000-1400
Mg: 500-700
P: 700-800
Zn: 800-900
B: 100-250
Mo: 60-80

Amazon Basics API SN+
http://pqiadata.org/AmazonBasics_0W20.html

SuperTech API SN+
http://pqiadata.org/SuperTech_5W20.html

Quaker State API SN+
http://pqiadata.org/QuakerState_5W20.html

Mobil 1 AP API SN+
http://pqiadata.org/Mobil1_5W20.html

STP API SN+
http://pqiadata.org/STP_5W30.html

and so on and so on... A few deviate slightly with a drop of titanium thrown in there (Valvoilne, Royal Purple, Castrol Edge), but for the most part, it's the same cookie cutter recipe. They're all in the same tiny box. There's differences in base oils with SOPUS riding that GTL train, but you aren't going to see any real world benefit from that over anything else. They use it because it's cheaper, and also because they dove head first into it and have to see it through.

Now let's compare those to the likes of Amsoil Signature Series which has a good bit more moly, boron, and detergents,
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4554249/1/Amsoil_SS_5w30_new_formulation

Red Line with loads more moly, ZDDP, and detergent.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4851640/1

High Performance Lubricants BAS where the additive package takes up nearly 30% of the total oil volume.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/foru...ance-lubricants-bas-5w-30-racing-oil-voa

These oils are not "cookie cutter" as you can see. They don't follow the boring API recipe.
 
Yeah I agree 4wd....

A lot of money needed to actually properly market a oil.... Nothing wrong with that in my way of seeing it.

Again I'd bet Mobil and Shell make a margin of 8-12 percent of the base oils they sell to Warren Oil, WD or Smitty's Supply/Cam2... And I like that Cam2 uses Afton..
 
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