I used to change my own oil for years, but got away from the practice and instead opted for the best oil change deal I could find, whether at the quick lube or WalMart. (I have to fess up to getting several of Wally's SuperTech changes at $13.88). But after reading all the posts here in BITOG, I'm getting the bug to do my own again. How many of you are using ramps to facilitate getting under the vehicle ? How about jacks? Any other suggestions? Not much clearance for me to get under the vehicles (2001 Park Ave, 2003 Bonneville)on a creeper without elevating the car.
Ramps for oil changes?
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I've used ramps for the last few years, but switched to the jack and jackstands I got for Christmas. I drive a clutch, so ramps are a real pain.
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I'm using $30 Rhino Ramps from Pep Boys. Without ramps there's no way I can remove the belly pan. The ramps make it easy.
Palut, what does the clutch have to do with it?
Palut, what does the clutch have to do with it?
I use a floor jack and jackstands.
Off topic a bit - When using a floor jack at one "corner" of a vehicle to gain clearance, it seems like you could twist/bend the vehicle frame. Is this possible?
Off topic a bit - When using a floor jack at one "corner" of a vehicle to gain clearance, it seems like you could twist/bend the vehicle frame. Is this possible?
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Get rid of that Yugo.
Seriously, just jack the car up at the proper jack point.
Not likely unless there is a lot of frame rot.
Terry
Terry
I use the cheapie walmart yellow stamped steel ramps, and drive stick shifts. I usually don't use enough power on the first run so I back down and try again. It's even more fun with wet tires.
They make really long ramps for those with low airdams under their bumpers now. I prefer being under my car on ramps compared to jackstands because the car is sitting on its suspension like it always does... sort of a karma thing.
They make really long ramps for those with low airdams under their bumpers now. I prefer being under my car on ramps compared to jackstands because the car is sitting on its suspension like it always does... sort of a karma thing.
Here's another vote for Rhino ramps. I've used the metal ones in the past, but the "Rhino" is IMO the best.
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I'm not sure if all Rhino ramps have that rubber stopper that prevents ramp-slippage. Mine have them, but I think I saw some without that useful feature. By the way, Rhino ramps come at least in two versions. A taller (grey) and a lower version (black).
And another vote for Rhino Ramps. I got the standard duty (black) model at Auto Zone for $20 (they also had the heavy duty (grey) version for $30). They're lower than the common yellow stamped steel ramps, so they easily clear chin spoilers & don't raise things as far away (better for catching dripping fluids & working on high-mounted parts).
Get a 4WD truck with plenty of clearance and you'll have no problems.
I opted for a cheap 2.5 tonne jack and axle stand combo that was on sale at crappy tire for the same price as a set of ramps and this way I can also use it for changing my tires from summer to winter.
I know one guy who had a hole dug in the ground and he would drive over top of it and then get down in the hole. Kind of dangerous if it ever caved in on you though... and digging that type of hole requires effort
I know one guy who had a hole dug in the ground and he would drive over top of it and then get down in the hole. Kind of dangerous if it ever caved in on you though... and digging that type of hole requires effort
We've got some rusty old metal ramps, they're pretty steep too. If you go up them too fast, it's possible to run off the end, which would be profoundly bad. So whenever I go up those ramps, I end up sitting there half in gear, burning the crap out of my clutch. By the time I got fully into gear, I'd be going to fast to stop in the right place...quote:
Originally posted by moribundman:
Palut, what does the clutch have to do with it?
I guess most of it is due to my particular ramps. In addition, they have no grip on the bottom, and I discovered that they will fly out from under the car if I try to drive up them in my garage...
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It's high time for new ramps, Palut!
I have a pair of black plastic/nylon/whatever ramps (low profile) that I bought at Pep Boys several months ago. I think they're great - they're low enough that my wife's Civic can clear them, and they raise the vehicle enough to make a meaningful difference.
If I'm doing something that doesn't require removal of wheels, they're much faster and easier than jacking the car up.
My truck has a manual transmission, while the Civic is an automatic: I find it far easier to get the truck up on the ramps without incident, which appears contrary to some others' experiences.
If I'm doing something that doesn't require removal of wheels, they're much faster and easier than jacking the car up.
My truck has a manual transmission, while the Civic is an automatic: I find it far easier to get the truck up on the ramps without incident, which appears contrary to some others' experiences.
The first time I went to change oil on my Grand AM GT, there was no way I could wiggle under it, and the air dam wouldn't clear my old steel ramps. Grabbed a 2 X 8, whacked it in two and nailed a wooden block to one end of each piece. Did the trick, and worked fine on my daughter's Beretta, and now my cavalier.
I put a chock block just the right distance in front of a rear wheel.
I put a chock block just the right distance in front of a rear wheel.
Forget the metal ones, they aren't worth the trouble or the money. Buy a 2x12 and cut it into a bunch of pieces to make ramps. Just keep stacking the wood one piece at a time until it is just short of being too tall for your front bumper. The bottom piece should be a foot longer than the second, then 3" shorter for each of the other ones. Once you have everything laid out use really long screws to hold the ramps together. If you use nails it will keep falling apart on your.
If you do this you won't need safety stands.
Personally, I have a steep driveway. I just park on it with the front wheels a little short of the crest. This gives me tons of room to crawl under the nose of the car.
Steve
If you do this you won't need safety stands.
Personally, I have a steep driveway. I just park on it with the front wheels a little short of the crest. This gives me tons of room to crawl under the nose of the car.
Steve
I can change the oil on my 1988 Mustang 5.0 and my mom's 1997 Ford Escort without jacking them up or using ramps.
My 1996 Ford Contour has the filter located in the front of the engine and it cannot be reached from the top, but if I put the front wheels at the end of the portion of the driveway which slopes upward, I can reach the filter without jacking it up. I can also reach the drain plug too.
I'm tall and have correspondingly long arms so that may help!
My 1996 Ford Contour has the filter located in the front of the engine and it cannot be reached from the top, but if I put the front wheels at the end of the portion of the driveway which slopes upward, I can reach the filter without jacking it up. I can also reach the drain plug too.
I'm tall and have correspondingly long arms so that may help!
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Nice imagery. Maybe you can come over and demonstrate your contortionist's skills on my Audi.
I'd like to, but that's an awful long drive!quote:
Originally posted by moribundman:
Nice imagery. Maybe you can come over and demonstrate your contortionist's skills on my Audi.
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