Question regarding Inner Tie Rods

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Aug 21, 2020
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I am changing the outer tie rod ends on a larger car (Ford Five Hundred) as preventative maintenance (a daughter will be using the car at college - car has 150K miles).

After disconnecting the outer tie rods, I noticed that the inner tie rod immediately flops / drops down, with no resistance at all. Otherwise, there is NO noticable play in the inner tie rod. I've seen comments on the Internet that if the inner tie rod flops it should be changed... Is that true? Am I ok to leave it as is?
 
Tie rods (and ball joints) seem to loosen up after a few thousand miles, and last a few hundred thousand more. I'd replace it while I'm in there but it'll probably last longer than the rest of the car.
 
tie rods aren't a maintenance item, btw

Thanks. One of the outers had a small tear in the boot. Tie Rods was functioning fine, but thought I'd change them out because of the boot...just saw it. Looked fine initially until I just inspected it.
 
I am also puzzled by this phenomenon
I ordered OE Motorcraft and TRW inner tie rods for my Fusion
The TRW ones are almost impossible to move by hand, and stick
The OE Motorcraft ones are droopy by gravity
No slop in the joint (they're both brand new) but a different feel out the box

Wow. That's really odd.

Good question.
 
I diagnosed a clunk/looseness to an inner tie rod.

The old one had the tiniest gap in its boot which let it get a bit damp in there. It would flop down readily.

The oe replacement would stay straight horizontal and never flop down. I could push it.
 
I diagnosed a clunk/looseness to an inner tie rod.

The old one had the tiniest gap in its boot which let it get a bit damp in there. It would flop down readily.

The oe replacement would stay straight horizontal and never flop down. I could push it.
I've also discovered a worn out inner before, on an 87 Topaz I got for free because it was unsafe to drive. It would randomly dart to the left. Or right. Totally unpredictable. Cost like $20 to fix. Haha
 
Tie rods (and ball joints) seem to loosen up after a few thousand miles, and last a few hundred thousand more. I'd replace it while I'm in there but it'll probably last longer than the rest of the car.
Longer than the CVT for sure ;)

As to the topic, it's up to OP. I don't believe "flopping" is abnormal but if it makes you feel better, go for it. How is access to the inner clamps? IME factory band clamps are superior and zip ties (which are often your only option in-vehicle) slip off.
 
IME factory band clamps are superior and zip ties (which are often your only option in-vehicle) slip off.
My PEX B plumbing comes with clamps remarkably similar to CV joint and tie rod boot clamps. The tool to crimp them is under twenty bucks online. FWIW, they're called Oetiker clamps.
 
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