2008 Subaru Forester inner tie rod adapters

[Soobs]

Would anyone happen to know what size tie rod adapter is needed to remove the inner tie rods off a 2008 Subaru Forester? The Harbor Freight Pittsburgh set has SAE: 1-3/16 in., 1-1/4 in., 1-5/16 in., 1-7/16 in.; Metric: 14mm, 17mm, 33.6mm. Not sure what size I need.

Also, anyone done this with aftermarket parts? They’re a fraction of the cost vs OEM on rockauto, but I also don’t want to have any surprises. The Moog product has a serviceable grease port for the outer, but I’m not sure how much that’s really needed since my original OE set lasted so long without?

Thanks!

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Sankei 555, CTR, and Delphi are good brands to use. If you need new steering rack boots, get Delphi.

And you're right, the Moog greaseable ports are stupid and outdated.

 

[MRC01]

When I replaced the front tie rods on a '04 Subaru Forester, the originals lasted for 15 years and they were still serviceable, just a bit of play. I figured that was pretty good so I went with OEM parts.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

When I replaced the front tie rods on a '04 Subaru Forester, the originals lasted for 15 years and they were still serviceable, just a bit of play. I figured that was pretty good so I went with OEM parts.

OEM is like $60 each! The cost of one OEM tie rod is more than all four (both inner and outer) aftermarket combined!

Even if not quite as good as OEM, premium aftermarket should still be able to outlast head gaskets

 

[Trav]

The Pittsburgh set has a size that fits just try it on the new part ,it works okay. These are easy to do, use OE for the outers only the inners OE or 555 either is fine, use OE poly boots and clamps.
What happens with a lot of these is no never seize was used between the inner and outer and they can be rusted tight, do give yourself a headache just cut them off in the middle of the outer. With a caliper measure the distance between the middle of the outer joint to the lock nut on the old one and place the new one in the same place, you need to get an alignment anyway and it will be close enough to get it there. coat the new ones threads with never seize.

Warm the new boots with a hair dryer, they are tight to get on. Use a band clamp tool on the clamps. The rear alignment on these can be big trouble. Post back if they cant get the rear align properly.

 

[Soobs]

The Pittsburgh set has a size that fits just try it on the new part ,it works okay. These are easy to do, use OE for the outers only the inners OE or 555 either is fine, use OE poly boots and clamps.
What happens with a lot of these is no never seize was used between the inner and outer and they can be rusted tight, do give yourself a headache just cut them off in the middle of the outer. With a caliper measure the distance between the middle of the outer joint to the lock nut on the old one and place the new one in the same place, you need to get an alignment anyway and it will be close enough to get it there. coat the new ones threads with never seize.

Warm the new boots with a hair dryer, they are tight to get on. Use a band clamp tool on the clamps. The rear alignment on these can be big trouble. Post back if they cant get the rear align properly.

Thanks Trav!

I'll report back when I get around to this job. In regards the the outer being seized to the inner I'm somewhat expecting this issue. Hoping PB Blaster and heat will help.

You mentioned the rear alignment can be trouble? What's usually going on with that? I don't expect the rears to be perfect.