Question about engine oil for my new Toyota Camry

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1999cutiger

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Hi Folks,

I'm new to BITOG..love the forum and I'm glad to be here.

I recently bought a new 2011 Toyota Camry and the owner's manual (and fill cap) states 0W20. The manual goes on to say that 5W20 is acceptable, but to make sure to switch back to 0W20 at the next oil change.

I am normally pretty militant about what the manual states and follow it very closely. However, 0W20 is very hard to find in my area. 5W20 is readily available. I live in South Carolina and the temps do not get that cold here. What say you?
 
5W-20 is fine, don't worry about it. 0W might be for fuel economy reasons, the protection will be pretty much the same except in super cold weather you probably never experience!
 
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Doesn't the manual also say 10k mile drain intervals? Toyota 0w20 contains high amounts of moly which help make the 10k interval a lot easier.
 
My Fords call for 5-20, but just this week switched to M1 0-20 in the Fusion. The engine sounds great, and as I always have done, I will do 10K OCIs with it.

Welcome to Bitog.
welcome2.gif
 
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Originally Posted By: sangyup81
Doesn't the manual also say 10k mile drain intervals? Toyota 0w20 contains high amounts of moly which help make the 10k interval a lot easier.


Sorry, I forgot to add my OCI. I do all oil changes every 5K.
 
As many NA automobile manufacturers pushing long OCI (with syn blends or full syn), it's not unheard of to see factory recommending 10k oci.

5K is now what I referred to as "common" for conventional OCI in OBD-II based gasoline engined cars. I typically push my "regular" syn based OCI to 7K or so.

so long as your PCV valve is in good shape and you rigidly abide by the use of Toy 0W20, why not go with 10k oci?

@sangyup81:

moly has nothing to do with the ability of extending OCI to 10k; base oil rate of deterioration, fuel dilution, etc. plays a more important role in this case.
 
Originally Posted By: Quest
As many NA automobile manufacturers pushing long OCI (with syn blends or full syn), it's not unheard of to see factory recommending 10k oci.

5K is now what I referred to as "common" for conventional OCI in OBD-II based gasoline engined cars. I typically push my "regular" syn based OCI to 7K or so.

so long as your PCV valve is in good shape and you rigidly abide by the use of Toy 0W20, why not go with 10k oci?

@sangyup81:

moly has nothing to do with the ability of extending OCI to 10k; base oil rate of deterioration, fuel dilution, etc. plays a more important role in this case.



5K OCI with synthetic oil is just a routine that I have always used. I do realize it is overkill and probably wasteful.

Basically, I do it because I can afford it, I enjoy working on cars and it helps me sleep better.
 
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Originally Posted By: 1999cutiger
Originally Posted By: Quest
As many NA automobile manufacturers pushing long OCI (with syn blends or full syn), it's not unheard of to see factory recommending 10k oci.

5K is now what I referred to as "common" for conventional OCI in OBD-II based gasoline engined cars. I typically push my "regular" syn based OCI to 7K or so.

so long as your PCV valve is in good shape and you rigidly abide by the use of Toy 0W20, why not go with 10k oci?

@sangyup81:

moly has nothing to do with the ability of extending OCI to 10k; base oil rate of deterioration, fuel dilution, etc. plays a more important role in this case.



5K OCI with synthetic oil is just a routine that I have always used. I do realize it is overkill and probably wasteful.

Basically, I do it because I can afford it, I enjoy working on cars and it helps me sleep better.



I do it because it`s what Toyota/Lexus recommends. And I have the (Supposedly fixed) Sludge motor.
 
Recently bought two fills of Mobil 1 0w-20 for the sole purpose of doing 10K OCI's. My UOA came back near perfect on QS GB dino at 5K, so I am confident Mobil 1 will be good to 10K.
 
Originally Posted By: Quest
moly has nothing to do with the ability of extending OCI to 10k; base oil rate of deterioration, fuel dilution, etc. plays a more important role in this case.

True, I just assumed all of those factors away as many syn oils go 12k, 15k, and sometimes 20k+ just fine. Moly is more to make sure less wear happens in those 10k intervals.
 
I do see some advantages to the 0W20. It's going to flow easier at start up,regardless of your ambient temps, and it seems to get up to operating temps more quickly. The operating viscosity is the same as 5W20, so 'fuel economy standards' has nothing to do with it.

Personally, I think you'd be better off doing 7.5K OCI's with a good 0W20 than 5K OCI's with 5W20, if you're really insistent on shorter OCI's.

Why not check to see if your Toyota dealer will sell you the Toyota 0W20 over the counter at a decent case price? A local dealer here sold it to me for $5.50/qt, which is competitive with anything else. The Toyota stuff seems to be great oil. It's made by XOM, but better specs than the branded M1. Along with Edge, it seems to be about the best 0W20 out there. I actually bought it for my Ford, spec'd for 5W20.
 
1999,
You didn't say if your Camry is a hybrid or conventional... If its a hybrid, it would be best to use the Toyo 0W20 due to the short cycling of the engine. Also, hybrids do not generate a lot of heat in the oil because they short cycle so high temperature protection is the least of worries. More important to have good pumpablity and flow under moderate to cold temperatures.

I've used Castrol, M1 AFE, Penzoil Plat 0W20s... by far the one that seems to work the best is the Toyo 0W20. And, as previously stated, its got a ton of moly in it.

If its the conventional Camry, I'd still use the Toyo 0W20. Better pumpablity and flow under all conditions.
 
Originally Posted By: 1999cutiger
Hi Folks,

I'm new to BITOG..love the forum and I'm glad to be here.

I recently bought a new 2011 Toyota Camry and the owner's manual (and fill cap) states 0W20. The manual goes on to say that 5W20 is acceptable, but to make sure to switch back to 0W20 at the next oil change.

I am normally pretty militant about what the manual states and follow it very closely. However, 0W20 is very hard to find in my area. 5W20 is readily available. I live in South Carolina and the temps do not get that cold here. What say you?



0w-20 is automatically a full synthetic fluid.
5w-20 is NOT automatically a full synthetic fluid.

That is probably the translation of Toyota's primary concern. Use a synthetic 5w-20 if you cannot get 0w-20.

Honestly, that's such a great car that I'd just buy the 0w-20 from the Toyota dealer and pay the extra money. 0w-20 will be in your area soon enough so you won't be doing it forever.
 
I have used Amsoil ASM 0W-20 in a 2007 Jeep Liberty with excellent results. Run it 12K to 16K (change once per yr) and confirm with an oil analysis. Reports always come back indicating I could run it farther. I particularly like this oil based on -20F to, on occasions, -30F temperatures that we can get in central MI.
 
Originally Posted By: JOD
I do see some advantages to the 0W20. It's going to flow easier at start up,regardless of your ambient temps, and it seems to get up to operating temps more quickly. The operating viscosity is the same as 5W20, so 'fuel economy standards' has nothing to do with it.

JOD, most oils are above operating viscosity (thick) during a commute, some through the complete commute - so viscosity during warmup most likely has MORE effect on fuel mileage than if you have a SAE 20 or 30 at operating temps. I am unsure if a 0w (vs 5w) will flow easier at start in above freezing environment. Also you must speak to specific oil and manufacturers - the MRV and CCS vary widely. Some 0w are 10KcP other 40kcP mRv at the same temp.
 
Originally Posted By: Silber Igel
1999,
You didn't say if your Camry is a hybrid or conventional... If its a hybrid, it would be best to use the Toyo 0W20 due to the short cycling of the engine. Also, hybrids do not generate a lot of heat in the oil because they short cycle so high temperature protection is the least of worries. More important to have good pumpablity and flow under moderate to cold temperatures.

I've used Castrol, M1 AFE, Penzoil Plat 0W20s... by far the one that seems to work the best is the Toyo 0W20. And, as previously stated, its got a ton of moly in it.

If its the conventional Camry, I'd still use the Toyo 0W20. Better pumpablity and flow under all conditions.



Sorry about that...mine is an LE non-hybrid (inline 4).
 
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Thanks for all of the feedback...my local Advance Auto has Castrol Edge 0W20 on sale right now for 5.99/quart. I am leaning that way. I am hoping my local WM will start carrying Edge 0W20 in the 5-quart jug soon.
 
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